Weaver RS3 Coupler Problem

It’s been a number of years. Pretty sure the post is part of the chassis. Molded in place. The coupler screws to that. I think the idea was they wanted no visible hardware in the locos deck. You should see screw threads in one end. The angle piece acts as sort of a washer. I think it should fit between the coupler arm and pickup roller.

It does appear the post is broke off. JB Weld for plastic should hold it in place. The only thing is. This may be some form of engineering plastic and it may not adhere without scuffing it up a bit. Even when done it’s probably going to be a weak link pulling heavy cars.

The other alternative. The 2 rail guys maybe able to help with this. There should be a way to mount a scale coupler. Whether it be a Weaver or a Kadee. This engine would probably appeal to more of the 3 rail scale crowd seeing it has fixed pilots.

@Dave_C posted:

It’s been a number of years. Pretty sure the post is part of the chassis. Molded in place. The coupler screws to that. I think the idea was they wanted no visible hardware in the locos deck. You should see screw threads in one end. The angle piece acts as sort of a washer. I think it should fit between the coupler arm and pickup roller.

It does appear the post is broke off. JB Weld for plastic should hold it in place.  This may be some form of engineering plastic and it may not adhere without scuffing it up a bit. Even when done it’s probably going to be a weak link pulling heavy cars.

The other alternative. The 2 rail guys maybe able to help with this. There should be a way to mount a scale coupler. Whether it be a Weaver or a Kadee. This engine would probably appeal to more of the 3 rail crowd seeing it has fixed pilots.

I believe Dave is correct, on all of his observations.

I have a pair of similar-vintage (red box) RS3s; one (UP) I kept "stock" with Weaver couplers; the other (Magma) I put Kadee 805s(?) which screwed into the existing posts. I do think I had to shorten the coupler boxes slightly...

Nice looking loco.

Mark in Oregon

I knew I had one under the layout. I sold the shell on it to a 2 railer and removed the e unit.

I’m missing the angle piece. That is suppose to keep the coupler centered. The coupler is one they came out with years later that had a thumbtack. The spacer slips over the mounting post. The coupler just screws on to the post. Probably just snug so it can pivot. Now that I’ve got it out. It looks like the Weaver 2 rail scale coupler uses the same mount. You could still go the Kadee route and just fabricate a mount using some thick styreene.

Way to go guys- thanks for the responses. The flat L shaped bumper has no vertical shaft coming off the underside frame on either end to slip over- my guess now is that the frame shafts broke off and are flopping around with the coupler with screw holding it . I have tried Super glue-doesn't bond to the shiny hard plastic at all. I can see no way that that the L shaped "bumper" was attached originally- but rather just slipped over the vertical shaft for spacing purposes and screwing in the coupler from the top.. The pictures really helped me visualize the problem. I have never have used JB Weld- heard many who swear by it and not at it.. in order to "weld' I would think the JB stuff would have to have a solvent strong enough to soften/melt the plastic so they can merge together. Is that right? This is going to take some engineering.....

@GrandpaChooChoo posted:

The pictures really helped me visualize the problem. I have never have used JB Weld- heard many who swear by it and not at it.. in order to "weld' I would think the JB stuff would have to have a solvent strong enough to soften/melt the plastic so they can merge together. Is that right? This is going to take some engineering.....

JB Weld is a two part epoxy; it doesn't really "weld", but once cured is pretty much as hard as metal. I can't remember it "attacking" plastic when using it on that type of material. Just make sure you allow plenty of time (24 hours or better) to let it really set up.

Let us know how it goes...

Mark in Oregon

I’m really not sure what frame is made of. I doubt even the best glue can hold that mount in place. Your gluing a small surface that’s going to be under strain at times.  You can build up around it. But then the other pieces won’t fit over it. Without being modified.

A hobby shop dealing in RC planes would carry these blind nuts. Made by DuBro. Seeing the time frame of the Weaver build. They look to be 2 56 screws. This would give you more surface to glue. Providing you can get something to adhere to the plastic frame.

You could go to Home Depot and grab a piece of 1/8 thick aluminum stock. Cut it to fit in the cavity of the frame with a tight fit. Then drill and tap a hole for the coupler. You will still need to find a suitable glue but with a snug fit in the frame. The glue won’t have much strain on it.

if all else fails. Hit my e mail. I can strip out what’s left of mine and ship you the frame. Just a lot of work to transfer everything over.

Thanks to Dave C. and Mark "Strummer"- appreciate both ideas. The engine right now is a "No Go Showboat" with no couplers to pull anything. I remember being 5 in 1950 and running 2 lionel gang cars opposite directions with my younger brother in a continuous circle of track and then wham- they hit their blue rubber bumpers (going full bore) and went the opposite direction ...ah...those were the days!  Either one of those gang cars could easily demolish the RS3 costing $189.00 - vs. the gang cars costing  about $5.95 each! Long live Lionel Postwar! I have more finesse in operating now as a boring grownup. Still have a bad case of train fever though-turned 77 October 2, 2022...