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Folks, 

I have collected several nice older Lionel cars, from the 50s and 60s, that are either all metal or mostly metal.  All of them are in nice shape, with no evidence of being dropped, broken or abused.  Just a little handling wear on the tops and sides of the cars.  Mostly coal cars, flat cars and tankers.

But, all of them have trucks that seem really loose, that wobble in a 360 degree radius.   Since none of the trucks look worn or repaired in any respect, and have all of their original paint on the bottoms, I can only conclude that these were manufactured this way.

I have read on this board that one of the primary reasons for car derailment is loose trucks.  So, why in the world would Lionel manufacture them this way?   (Heck, when I was looking at one of them, a small rubber band broke off and fell from the bottom of a truck.)

When the longer flat or coal cars are being hauled around an 031 corner at medium speed, I can actually see the cars rocking and leaning outward.

Am I going to have to drill out the rivet on all of these trucks and install a nut and bolt to tighten them up?

What do you guys do please?


Mannyrock

 

 

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Are they rivets or “c” clips? If riveted, you can drill them out, and re-assemble with screws and lock nuts. If “c” clips, use a flat bade screw driver to open “c”, ( I often put a rag over the clip so it doesn’t fly into the fourth dimension), and add a thin washer, and then put back the clip with a pliers. I usually pick up the clips at train shows, but major hardware stores also carry them near the screws, nuts, and other fastener drawers.

I don't know how handy you are but you can also tighten the rivets.  With the rivet head on a solid piece of metal like an anvil or if your vice is good it will do, use a punch and hammer to strike the rivet on the reverse side gently at first and if it is not tight enough a little harder until is is tight enough for you.

If it is a 'c' clip a pair of needle nose pliers works really well to remove and install them if you are careful.

Last edited by Bill DeBrooke

A  really down and dirty fix is to wrap a thin wire around the rivet shaft.  I just did one by taking the shell off of a box car and wrapped wire under the head of the rivet.  It can also be wrapped around the truck side of the rivet.  I use black coated hobby wire and it can't be seen.  Don't get me wrong, the best fix is the replacement screw.  However, I have used the wire method on many freight cars with no problems whatsoever.

@Mannyrock posted:


I still wonder why Lionel would make them with such sloppy tolerances.

Manny, the story has it that this was done for shipping.  The trucks were turned so the coupler was turned inward beneath the train car, so the rivets had to be loose enough for this to be done.

At some point during the MPC or LTI eras, the box design was changed so that the trucks with couplers could be left in the normal outward position. And yet the rivets can still be loose.

Just for a clarification, the loose rivet truck mounting is more of a derailment issue when pushing a train backwards. All the weight is then on the couplers, so when going backwards into a tight curve, that loose rivet mounting is going to naturally allow the truck to move upward on the inside wheel set, thus causing the derailment.

But folks also ran their trains shorter back in those days. The advent of the fast angle wheel during the MPC years allowed for less friction thus the ability to run longer trains without damaging the motor of your locomotive.

Outside of poor track, there are some other causes for derailments that I personally have experienced:

- Wheel sets out of gauge... more of an issue when buying a used train car that may have had wheel sets replaced, or originally had plastic wheel sets. I once bought a bulk parts bag of fast angle wheel sets and was quite surprised to see how much variety there was in the gauge of the wheels. I've discovered there can be some variation in wheel set gauge and you'll be alright, but NOT with wheel sets on the same truck. You want the gauge of the wheel sets to be the same on one single truck.

- Knuckle couplers. Although all the manufacturers use basically the same design for the knuckle coupler, there are subtle differences. For example, knuckles and pins from one brand will not fit properly on a another brand of train car. In the case of the Industrial Rail cars, the space on the coupler where the pin inserts to hold the knuckle is much thicker than on other brands. So this can cause the couplers to bind when running backwards on tight curves, thus causing a derailment.

Staying with couplers, another possible cause is flashing on plastic trucks, particularly on the knuckle itself. Also the space within the closed knuckle coupler can be an issue.

But again, over the years, there have been a number of companies making trains, and the designs used on their couplers - while basically similar - are all subtly different. The only real way to potentially avoid this issue is to run train cars all made by the same manufacturer.

To add another fly to that ointment, with all the multiple vendors being used today in Chinese production of trains, there's no guarantee that rule of thumb will even work, as the companies could today be getting parts from any number of vendors. Up until the early 2000's, all the trains made in China were all made pretty much by one single facility: Sanda Kan. When that company announced a major shakeup, all the train makers were left scrambling to find another Chinese vendor to manufacture their trains. I don't know how accurate this info is, but I've heard there up to seven different vendors (or Chinese plants) making trains and components for Lionel trains.

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