Originally Posted by joeyA:
Darn it, Steve. I like yours better than mine. Dusty and dirty definitely captures the look of the CNJ!!
Watch out for those stone throwers Joey, here -http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAmeo8zG2Wc
enjoy!
boin106:
Your photos and your layout are outstanding! Great job!
Mike
Amtrak F40PH showed up this week...
This one leaves no doubt about the train its intended for. It has 'Freight yard' effects--in the guise of the Exhibit Train's itinerary.
I'll have more photos comparing this one with the PS-1 version tomorrow--there are a number of detail upgrades versus the earlier model.
---PCJ
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Not my picture (I'm still in TN, sorry!) but how about some double-headed steam on the Reading & Northern?
Yery nice Peter. I like Tom's idea, and will consider it: I have a yard to ballest.
Originally Posted by Putnam Division:
Tom (Gilly@N&W) and I worked to get the yard on our modular layout ready for further ballasting. The styrofoam is Tom's idea.......it really cuts down on the ballast in an area where the terrain is level at tie height.
Peter
Coal, black gold, quickly being replaced by Marcellus Shale gas in this modern, clean world.
Another coal hauling pair of Atlas SW9's
Great Stuff Gents,
Jim P. A little info on the coupler conversion of the WP loco please. I am contemplating the very idea of Kadee Couplers on swinging pilots. As opposed to the full on 3RS treatment.
Many Thanks.
Rick.
Originally Posted by Bruce E. Vincelette:
Yery nice Peter. I like Tom's idea, and will consider it: I have a yard to ballest.
Originally Posted by Putnam Division:
Tom (Gilly@N&W) and I worked to get the yard on our modular layout ready for further ballasting. The styrofoam is Tom's idea.......it really cuts down on the ballast in an area where the terrain is level at tie height.
This is 1/4" Z Fold insulation I bought at Lowe's. Cuts very easily with a box cutter or razor blade. I use this technique any time the ballast needs to be level with the ties. This will save you a ton on your ballast. The fifth picture gives a really good view of "before" and "after" ballasting.
Gilly
BTW, before ballasting, I do paint this earthen brown.
The K-Line scale Hudson got some workbench time this weekend. I removed and painted the marker light housings, tender steps and all other chemically-blackened metal parts on the model and painted them a matching satin black. This by itself made the model look 100 times better. One of my gripes with K-Line was always that they always used that awful blackening on smaller metal parts which ages and turns an ugly shade of green over time, which really takes away from the beauty of the model. I will get around to adding a Kadee to the tender sometime, it will require a bit of work to mount it properly.
Originally Posted by nyclines:
Great pics everybody.
My favorite car
interesting and a study in contrast. I refuse to have a Tucker on my layout, because the die-cast market is flooded with the things and there were only a handful made in the real world. Preston Tucker was a charlatan of the John Delorean ilk and the Tucker was in fact a lousy automobile, but it lives on in legend. It's easier to find a die-cast Tucker than most of the cars that actually existed on the street in the late 40's and early 50's.
Originally Posted by Rick Bivins:
Great Stuff Gents,
Jim P. A little info on the coupler conversion of the WP loco please. I am contemplating the very idea of Kadee Couplers on swinging pilots. As opposed to the full on 3RS treatment.
Many Thanks.
Rick.
Hi Rick,
Mounting the Kadee wasn't too difficult but did require tapping and drilling.
To get an idea of the shim (if any) needed, eyeball the top of the 3-rail coupler in relation to the underside of the pilot. The top of the Kadee will end up being at the same height as the top of the knuckle.
1. Drop the truck and remove the 3-rail coupler.
2. Assemble the Kadee with it's coupler box. Remove pilot, set the box in place and mark the hole positions (the two on the outside ears of the box).
3. Use a sharp punch to start the holes so the drill doesn't wander, and drill with a #50.
4. Tap the holes 2-56.
5. Attach the Kadee box with two 2-56 machine screws, adding the required shims (I use scrap styrene).
6. Cut off any part of the screw that protrudes above the pilot and file flush.
7. Reassemble pilot and truck.
Jim
Originally Posted by Southwest Hiawatha:
the Tucker was in fact a lousy automobile
The problem was tucker went from prototype to production quicker than he wanted to. I found an interview with a tucker collector on you-tube that explained the progression of the Tucker Engine and Transmission, and yes the first ones had issues, but things got worked out with the Franklin Engine and I believe it was a Cord Transmission. The collection has now been Given to the Hersey Car Museum, in Hersey PA, It also includes an almost complete set of Tucker Company Blueprints
Found the video, http://vimeo.com/40808381
I'm thinking of using Masonite that would bring the area up, but just below tie hight - what do think?
Bruce
Originally Posted by Putnam Division:
Tom (Gilly@N&W) and I worked to get the yard on our modular layout ready for further ballasting. The styrofoam is Tom's idea.......it really cuts down on the ballast in an area where the terrain is level at tie height.
Peter
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Bruce
Super job, know that is not an easy kit to assemble.
Charlie,
It was the most challenging kit I have attempted so far. Thanks for looking.
Originally Posted by pennsyk4:
Bruce
Super job, know that is not an easy kit to assemble.
Originally Posted by Bruce E. Vincelette:
I'm thinking of using Masonite that would bring the area up, but just below tie hight - what do think?
Bruce
Masonite is do-able. More expensive, heavier, and more difficult to cut. HOWEVER, for a perminant layout, it would be more durable. Weight is a major factor for us with the modular layout.
Gilly
Bruce,
Great job. I just finished that kit. What is the "yellow" you used? Who makes it and what is the color name? Looks great. Also, I like the sewer pipe you place outside. I did not have that in my kit. How did you make it?
John
John,
I used POLLY Scale (F414405) CN Yellow #12 over a gray primer. I later sanded it a bit so that some of the gray shows through. I found this site for Tower Hobbies on line. They carry a lot of colors, and they are pictured on the site. You can even zoom in on them. This was especially helpful to me because POLLY Scale (Now TESTORS) comes in many shades of yellow.
The stack pipe came wth the kit. I was trying to figure out how I would make it - as on the BAR MILLS photo - when I opened the pewter detail parts and there it was! I really like that detale too.
Originally Posted by johnshorse:
Bruce,
Great job. I just finished that kit. What is the "yellow" you used? Who makes it and what is the color name? Looks great. Also, I like the sewer pipe you place outside. I did not have that in my kit. How did you make it?
John
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Don't neglect your F unit. Sonoma county, California. Don
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