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@Farmall-Joe posted:

Well we've all been respectful with our concerns and laid out the reasons why. There is no joke and no one is coping out.  It is not our place to research the entire code book for you.   For anyone else who would like to heed the warning here is the primary code being probably violated...i say probably because i have not researched the entire electric code here. It is up to the homeowner to abide by the laws and provide safety for his or her family, future home owners or anyone potentially working in the house. I reiterate that RichieC's licensed electrician felt he should rewire to be in compliance with the code.

3701.2 Allowable wiring methods.
The allowable wiring methods for electrical installations shall be those listed in Table E3701.2. Single conductors shall be used only where part of one of the recognized wiring methods listed in Table E3701.2.

TABLE E3701.2 ALLOWABLE WIRING METHODS

Armored cableAC

Electrical metallic tubingEMT

Electrical nonmetallic tubingENT

Flexible metal conduitFMC

Intermediate metal conduitIMC

Liquidtight flexible conduitLFC

Metal-clad cableMC

Nonmetallic sheathed cableNM

Rigid nonmetallic conduitRNC

Rigid metallic conduitRMC

Service entrance cableSE

Surface racewaysSR

Underground feeder cableUF

Underground service cableUSE

E3701.3 Circuit conductors.

All conductors of a circuit, including equipment grounding conductors, shall be contained in the same raceway, trench, cable or cord.

And for the record, i've been an electrical engineer in the nuclear power industry for 20 years...not an "amateur".

You can lead a horse to water...

That requirement is for new construction wiring, not for retro-fitting a ground wire to a two wire system.

Here is the 2017 Code requirement and comment;

From the 2017 National Electrical Code:

(C) Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch Circuit Extensions. The equipment grounding conductor of a grounding-type receptacle or a branch-circuit extension shall be permitted to be connected to any of the following: (1) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system as described in 250.50 (2) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor (3) The equipment grounding terminal bar within the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates (4) An equipment grounding conductor that is part of another branch circuit that originates from the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates (5) For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor within the service equipment enclosure (6) For ungrounded systems, the grounding terminal bar within the service equipment enclosure

Does the wire need to follow the same path as the ungrounded 2 wire path?

No, it isn't required but if it did that would be preferable.

How would the ground enter the junction box?

It could be fished into another opening with a cable clamp.

How is it secured?

To the grounding-type-receptacle's ground lug and to the box, if it is metal, by means of a 10-32 ground screw.

There are many ways to accomplish this. These are the preferred methods of the trade but there are other acceptable ways.

Well again, there are a number of codes that are applicable for any given situation. For another example, Replacement of receptacles shall comply with 406.4(D)(1) through (D)(6), as applicable. You really cant pick and choose which apply and dont. Ultimately you are convinced you have a safe, acceptable installation and i am not here to force you to change your mind.  The rest of the forum is probably tiring of our back of forth anyway.

@Farmall-Joe posted:

Well again, there are a number of codes that are applicable for any given situation. For another example, Replacement of receptacles shall comply with 406.4(D)(1) through (D)(6), as applicable. You really cant pick and choose which apply and dont. Ultimately you are convinced you have a safe, acceptable installation and i am not here to force you to change your mind.  The rest of the forum is probably tiring of our back of forth anyway.

That we can agree upon.

Got the lighting wired with the variable DC Buck converter this afternoon, as well as all the power drops for the sidings around the Freight Warehouse at the Interchange.   Uploading a video now showing the Kadee Delayed coupling operation.  The delayed uncoupling is working really consistently on both sidings, very cool. 

It'll take hours for YouTube to fully process the video, but I'll post a link tomorrow when it's done.

After dinner, I think I'll start glazing in windows ! 

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OK the 4K video processed much faster than I anticipated.    It's about 3 1/2 minutes long, showing Delayed Uncoupling Action with Kadee 805 couplers and their 809 Uncoupling magnets mated up with some 6 mm Diameter x 3 mm thick Neodymium magnets.   The delayed uncoupling is a great feature for the sidings on either side of this Less Than Carload Freight terminal as it allows me to spot cars at the warehouse door openings.   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLrVcegy57Y

I've been painting a NP North Coast Limited train and splitting time between experimenting with satin and flat coats; bouncing between shooting dark green on pax cars, light green on the F unit chassis, and black on the truck side frames of the F-3 units; and, ordering parts for both.

Meanwhile, I've taken on the project of swapping out incandescent bulbs in 10 older scale K-Line NYC heavyweight pax cars (4 bulbs per car) at the club for warm white LED strip lights.  So, I've been assembling from components the @gunrunnerjohn designed regulators to power the LED's that arrived today.  The swap will begin Saturday and it'll be neat to see 10 scale cars running around the club layout for the first time.

@p51  love the Tardis shot. Of all the possible whimsy stuff, there is always an explanation on why there is a Tardis on your layout. The Doctor is there to save your layout of course - from unseen and unknown aliens.  Any time and place is fair game.  I have to get around to doing the same thing to my Tardis. But I think I will use a 9V set-up from Evans to make this happen. That way no restrictions on placement. Now all I have to do is find a reasonably sized Dr to walk around town to find the bad guys. Tom Baker is an obvious choice, but any doctor will do.  If you look closely in the town of Twin Pines you will find the Tardis.

@CR Cole posted:

Also, Lionelski, I think that brings the smokestack up to code! (To soon?)

@chris a- looks good. One question- I see how the Kaydees uncouple in reverse. Why don't they come apart when pulling?

@Chris Lonero- neat building. I like the pouring dog food animation.

@Pingman- please share pix when that NYC consist is put together.

@Lionelski- Nice work on the hobo shack. Looks like it's always been there.

Bob

Wow  - A lot of great work i am seeing.  Farmerjohn - just how much time do you have into that refinery and lighting - simply amazing.  Trainwreck - looks like you have weathering talent - great job.  Chris - thats an excellent freight depot for that siding.  And how I love lighting - right up my alley !  All - keep up the good work.  I enjoy checking out this thread quite often.   JP

Morning guys, nothing new from me today as all I did was clean the train room yesterday!

First off @Trainmaster04 So sorry for your buddy! I know how nice it is to have your lifelong friend in the train room with you!

@chris a The lighting turned out great! I haven't had a chance to watch your video yet, but will as I don't have a lot of free time this morning.

@Lionelski John wonderful little shack! Looks great on your layout!

@p51 Lee that looks great, now all you have to do also is find a doctor! LOL

@Chris Lonero Nice looking building! I have a few of Menards buildings and really like them!

Well guys I hope you all have a great Friday and weekend! Most of all I hope you find time to have fun with your layout and trains!

Bob,  the knuckles on Kadees don't "hinge open" in the same way claw couplers do.   The knuckle pivot point is further down the shank toward the coupler box.  The 90 degree elbow in the knuckle is solid cast metal.  Hence, the Kadee Knuckle kind of slides sideways under the magnetic force and also the shank will actually slide to the side as well when it's not coupled and free to move side to side.   

When under pulling tension none of this "sliding" occurs at the knuckle or shank pivot,  even with the weight of only one freight car.   

It's a little difficult to describe with words.

@chris a posted:

Bob,  the knuckles on Kadees don't "hinge open" in the same way claw couplers do.   The knuckle pivot point is further down the shank toward the coupler box.  The 90 degree elbow in the knuckle is solid cast metal.  Hence, the Kadee Knuckle kind of slides sideways under the magnetic force and also the shank will actually slide to the side as well when it's not coupled and free to move side to side.   

When under pulling tension none of this "sliding" occurs at the knuckle or shank pivot,  even with the weight of only one freight car.   

It's a little difficult to describe with words.

Makes sense. I noticed the action of them in the video (2:38) when the free coupler on the B&O wagon top went over the magnet and swung it out to the side.

Thanks

PS- the engineer must have been in a hurry....he's a little heavy handed on the throttle.....

Hey y'all,

   I took my layout down last July.  I wanted to make improvements everywhere.   I did nothing for months.  I kept up on the OGR forum.  Last week I found a deal on a postwar NW2.  Suddenly I wanted to run a train.  I put up a quick loop and gave my first consist a little running time.  Tomorrow, the loop comes down.  As I learned on this forum.  Background first.  I'm glad to be back.

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Hey guys It has been long interesting week here on the forum. I enjoyed reading all of your progress and watching your videos which inspires me a lot. I had this Woodland scenic pre-stringed power poles I’ve been putting off for some time to install them and it was easier than I thought. I don’t know if you can see the power lines but here’s a couple of photos. Thanks for your inspiration. Also…Welcome back Odenville Bill! Warning: It’s more of an addiction rather than a hobby!F94F8504-31B1-4BE0-8554-DD4BF66D2B5247B4B2E0-9E70-4D6D-A300-63A7B342973D

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Morning guys some great stuff that's for sure!

@chris a Just watched your video and looks great! I really like how smooth things work. But I do have one question, on your switcher it looks like it still has the stock coupler, how do you keep them attached and I have problems with some of my Kadee's coming lose ?

@samparfitt wonderful video's I just love sitting back and watching your videos as alot of them are from my area!

@Bill Sherry the turn table control panel looks like it was custom built for your layout! Very nice work!

@p51 Lee very cool B&W photo! Makes since for the time frame you are modeling!

@Odenville Bill Bill nice to see your still here, we have missed you, for a minute I was thinking you might have given up! Ishnit funny how one engine can get things rolling again!

@Jrtrains John, nice work on the power polls! Yep I can see the power lines! I have some polls to put up but dreading it as my vision isnt as it once was and attaching the string for me can be a challenge!

Well guys nothing new from me today or the rest of the weekend as the wife and I are going to go see the kids and Grandkids!

I hope you all have a fun weekend with your layouts and trains!

Mike the Kadee 805's are compatible and work pretty darn well overall with "claw couplers".   They make a 700 series coupler which is supposed to be more prototypically correct, but it won't work with any 3 rail claw couplers.  I think one of the model #'s is 740 ?   

Not sure which ones you installed.   If you did get the 700 series couplers, you'll need to plan on converting everything over, or maybe have some transition cars that have 805's.   I don't know if 805's and the 700 series work together but a Google search would probably tell you. 

Been running my new LIRR RS-1. What a sweet engine. I had to get the MOW crew out on a Saturday to adjust clearances on one of the track bumpers on the Team Tracks. The fuel tank and auxiliary box on the 1's are straight and square and are so low to the rail that they hit all sorts of stuff.  No wonder everyone went to tapered tanks.

2022-03-04 20.12.392022-03-05 16.47.44

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@RSJB18 posted:

Been running my new LIRR RS-1. What a sweet engine. I had to get the MOW crew out on a Saturday to adjust clearances on one of the track bumpers on the Team Tracks. The fuel tank and auxiliary box on the 1's are straight and square and are so low to the rail that they hit all sorts of stuff.  No wonder everyone went to tapered tanks.

2022-03-04 20.12.39

Sweet engine, Bob. You do realize that wider, less severe curves may give you more breathing room, don’t you???

You guys have been busy. Great stuff!

The last 2 weeks have been cleanup of notes, updating computer lists for blocks, turnouts, etc, label creating for wires, and updating Railroad Track. Other than a couple more yellow pages of notes, Paula, Rich, and I, have things caught up for the first time in two years.

We are ready to complete the engine service right side of level 2 and then get on with the completion of the left side and the beginning of level 3.

     Had a good day working on the warehouse.  Got all the windows & doors installed,  added a second floor for the office area, then painted the lower 4 feet of the warehouse walls medium gray.   Will need to start working on roof drains/downspouts, add some vent pipes and other small details, then  start building some crates and freight loads to fill the warehouse floor.

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