chris a posted:Finally finished putting up the baltic birch ceiling panels over the main layout area (15 x 30) and completed the new LED dimmable track lighting...
Very nice work. Installing LED track lighting made a world of difference in my train room. May I ask what material you have behind your puff ball trees?
Kittytrain1969 posted:I can't do a darn thing on my layout until my foster cats are back home. Should be around August ? One of them has taken up residency and shall not be removed. I had to set up an oval on the carpet so I could get my daily train fix!
TOO FUNNY! He's gotta get up occasionally to eat right? Build a quick platform above the tracks for him (her) to sleep on so that you can still run trains.
Thanks LUVINDEMTRAINS, I use the 1 inch thick rigid pink foam board insulation for the shallow relief back drop behind the "puff ball trees".... I paint it flat black with latex paint prior to attaching the trees. This entire layout is built in modular form, so if I have to move again, I don't have to start from scratch..... The rigid foam board is great for this as it doesn't weigh much, it easy to shape, is stable in terms of not warping over time and I can hold it to the masonite back drops with either "Velcro" or drive a small headed #6 trim screw through it to hold it in place. Also, I much prefer to do almost all the scenic detailing work in the workshop, rather than in place over the track work. The picture below is what the area looked like before the scenery was moved in place, and a couple of progress shots as the corner scene was being roughed in and built off the table.
went on a goose chase, and ended up going for a ride......this thing sounds really cool !
Scenery creation on the Rio Grande switching layout has begun. Here is a sneak peak.
looks great !
ChessieMD Great looking coloring on the rocks and blending in the loose stones... Are you using the bottled dyes and stains from Woodland Scenics or making up your own colors ?
chris a posted:ChessieMD Great looking coloring on the rocks and blending in the loose stones... Are you using the bottled dyes and stains from Woodland Scenics or making up your own colors ?
Chris,
Used the Woodland scenic stains, Yellow Ocher, burnt umber, and black combined with a tube of watered down Liquitex, raw sienna, red oxide and white titanium. One thing with the washes is some colors pop a little too much like the burnt umber and red oxide wash. After this wash the rocks came out a bit too harsh on the red side. The white titanium wash muted the colors and provided a nice blending effect on the stone and surrounding material. Thanks.
Okay guys, I am at a impasse. MIKE G gave me the idea of using part of the blister pack stapling it to the end then applying tape. After using a fair amount of duct tape and the ends still leaked I am somewhat leery of using it again. Max I am using Woodland Scenics Realistic water. So here is my thought now. I am looking into duct putty to seal the ends. My logic is it is pliable and it is suppose to stick to just about everything so I should be able to seal the ends up completely. Any help appreciated................Paul
paul 2 posted:Okay guys, I am at a impasse. MIKE G gave me the idea of using part of the blister pack stapling it to the end then applying tape. After using a fair amount of duct tape and the ends still leaked I am somewhat leery of using it again. Max I am using Woodland Scenics Realistic water. So here is my thought now. I am looking into duct putty to seal the ends. My logic is it is pliable and it is suppose to stick to just about everything so I should be able to seal the ends up completely. Any help appreciated................Paul
Everywhere that the vertical elements met the horizontal surfaces, I heaped on the Liquid Nails; waited for it to dry thoroughly, painted the glue areas the colors I wanted for the dry land, and poured the same "water" product you are intending to use and had not one place where it leaked through.
I hope you may find this helpful, Paul2.
FrankM
Thanks Frank, you have added another option for me.......Paul
paul 2 posted:Thanks Frank, you have added another option for me.......Paul
Paul,
Another thought is to seal everything using clear caulk. I too used liquid cement on the vertical areas hitting the horizontal, but tend to use clear caulk to just make sure before I pour realistic water. Food for thought.
More work on the bridge area
bridge area looking great !!
Ralph M posted:The "main drag" is shaping up. Many details yet to do. Pay no attention to random wires protruding from the landscape.
I've watched your work here in the forum, and, you're doing a awesome job, it looks great to my eyes! I look forward to see what you do next, gives me ideas for when I start my layout, soon.
fl9turbo2 posted:
More work on the bridge area
It looks great, nice work, and I like how the water looks, too. It's been a long time since I've done scenery (HO) that's why I like to watch and learn from others here, like yourself, and how to accomplish results like this. Many thanks to you and Ralph and others that post the progress made on your layouts, it's very much appreciated!
Sadly, nothing for awhile now...I'm deep into demolition in an original part of the house.
I have been taking time to run my newly acquired MTH Premier PRR J1. Back to the layout soon, I hope.
paul 2 posted:Okay guys, I am at a impasse. MIKE G gave me the idea of using part of the blister pack stapling it to the end then applying tape. After using a fair amount of duct tape and the ends still leaked I am somewhat leery of using it again. Max I am using Woodland Scenics Realistic water. So here is my thought now. I am looking into duct putty to seal the ends. My logic is it is pliable and it is suppose to stick to just about everything so I should be able to seal the ends up completely. Any help appreciated................Paul
I'm Sorry Paul!
Diverging Clear posted:fl9turbo2 posted:
It looks great, nice work, and I like how the water looks, too. It's been a long time since I've done scenery (HO) that's why I like to watch and learn from others here, like yourself, and how to accomplish results like this. Many thanks to you and Ralph and others that post the progress made on your layouts, it's very much appreciated!
Thanks for comment The water was made with me painting the bottom and covered it with 2 part lacquer I purchased at lowes I sealed it with clear caulked I still have the other half I am making it in 2 parts so one half can be removed so I can stand up in the layout
MIKE G, nothing to be sorry about. I just met my match with water. I am now going to use duct putty making a wall at each end of the stream. This is a good learning experience for me. Heading down to the basement right now to do it. If it works I'll pat myself on the back LOL. If it doesn't I may just settle for dry river beds LOL............Paul
paul 2 posted:MIKE G, nothing to be sorry about. I just met my match with water. I am now going to use duct putty making a wall at each end of the stream. This is a good learning experience for me. Heading down to the basement right now to do it. If it works I'll pat myself on the back LOL. If it doesn't I may just settle for dry river beds LOL............Paul
Well either way, let us know how it turns out! That how we all learn from each other!
MaxSouthOz posted:Still chugging along . . .
Still lots to do . . .
That scene is rely cool. Having seen similar at Navy Pier in Chicago as a kid. Now all you need are forklifts, crates, general dock clutter, and people. And of course video of someone having a surprise shower from the water cannons.
fl9turbo2 posted:
Looks good.
paul 2 posted:Okay guys, I am at a impasse. MIKE G gave me the idea of using part of the blister pack stapling it to the end then applying tape. After using a fair amount of duct tape and the ends still leaked I am somewhat leery of using it again. Max I am using Woodland Scenics Realistic water. So here is my thought now. I am looking into duct putty to seal the ends. My logic is it is pliable and it is suppose to stick to just about everything so I should be able to seal the ends up completely. Any help appreciated................Paul
Paul,
I used to use stuff called duct seal. It like silly putty and is easy to shape. Maybe try that and hold it in place with masonite screwed into the end of the table. I was an electrician so the supply houses had it.
Good luck,
Bob
suzukovich posted:MaxSouthOz posted:Still chugging along . . .
That scene is realy cool. Having seen similar at Navy Pier in Chicago as a kid. Now all you need are forklifts, crates, general dock clutter, and people. And of course video of someone having a surprise shower from the water cannons.
Thanks. Most of that stuff is inside the warehouses so far (see link to my thread below my signature), but what you say is right. I'm just head down and bottom up trying to finish the darned tug boat. 
Dressing the scene is the real fun part. 
RSJB18 posted:
Kittytrain1969 posted:I can't do a darn thing on my layout until my foster cats are back home. Should be around August ? One of them has taken up residency and shall not be removed. I had to set up an oval on the carpet so I could get my daily train fix!
TOO FUNNY! He's gotta get up occasionally to eat right? Build a quick platform above the tracks for him (her) to sleep on so that you can still run trains.
Lol ! yeah, that's an idea, she even wants to eat up there too. The biggest problem is that she constantly wants attention and she's so cute that it's hard not to pet her, which leads to my dilemma. Oh well, it will give me something to look forward to in the fall.
The duct putty worked. Not one leak or drip. I now have a second coat on the one side and a first coat on the other stream. The only problem now is I should of order enough Realistic Water. So now another bit of limbo till I can order some more. Once I did that I worked on adding track to go to the Morton Salt building and added the siding next to that track. I had to stop because I have to drill a hole under the building to run the plug to the underside. So some pics of the work tonight.....Paul
Nothing on the layout for the last month or so, but did some 12 inch to 1 foot railroading today with the Michigan Transit Museum.
They run a short train just outside of Mt Clemens. Here is a few shots I took including one of the all volunteer crew.
crew.
Stopped by Engine House Hobbies in Gaithersburg, Md. today.... bought a nice K Line scale Milwaukee Road boxcar and some figures. Great shop!!
Of course when I got home, I immediately had to cut the new boxcar into the B&O freight train running on my outer loop mainline. Car looks great!! I ran trains for about 20 minutes or so and really enjoyed every moment!!
Jdevleerjr posted:Nothing on the layout for the last month or so, but did some 12 inch to 1 foot railroading today with the Michigan Transit Museum.
They run a short train just outside of Mt Clemens. Here is a few shots I took including one of the all volunteer crew.
crew.
Nice but it sacrilegious to have the Baldy being pulled by a diesel. The South Shore unit I can understand. 
ChessieMD posted:Scenery creation on the Rio Grande switching layout has begun. Here is a sneak peak.
Nice!
morning run....
This weekend I finished mounting the military vehicles to my Menards Flatcars. I have a few additional tasks I want to do yet.
1. Add wheel chocks and chains for better realism
2. I mistakenly purchased two Russian Gaz "Jeeps" because I mistook them for US Jeeps. I either need to sell them or add US Star decals and use them anyway. (They look like US Jeeps.)
3. Find a way to store the flatcars. Only two of the six flatcars fit in their Menards boxes. Since I don't have a layout and run my trains at my club, I need to be able to store and transport the flatcars without damaging the guns on the attached cars.
4. Paint the Howitzers.
paul 2 posted:The duct putty worked. Not one leak or drip. I now have a second coat on the one side and a first coat on the other stream. The only problem now is I should of order enough Realistic Water. So now another bit of limbo till I can order some more. Once I did that I worked on adding track to go to the Morton Salt building and added the siding next to that track. I had to stop because I have to drill a hole under the building to run the plug to the underside. So some pics of the work tonight.....Paul
Paul, that is just wonderful, I am so glad that Frank was able to point you in the right direction! Things are looking to be a beautiful river I can already see swimmers and floaters in the river! Question on the Duck Putty, does it come off easy?
The siding is coming together nicely! I really like seeing your post, then show that your progressing and still having fun doing it!
Mike and Frank, again thanks. The first hurdle was no leaks. As to your question I have not tried to take it off yet because I want to add a few more coats of water. I am hoping it will come off easy and if it doesn't it will be more on the edge so I can possibly just paint it black like I did on the edges of everything. I just ordered more water which get here till Wednesday. And after all these years I still have fun....................Paul
suzukovich posted:Jdevleerjr posted:Nothing on the layout for the last month or so, but did some 12 inch to 1 foot railroading today with the Michigan Transit Museum.
They run a short train just outside of Mt Clemens. Here is a few shots I took including one of the all volunteer crew.
Nice but it sacrilegious to have the Baldy being pulled by a diesel. The South Shore unit I can understand.
The group owns another Diesel, an Alco S-1, along with another identical EL car. They have it wired where the generator on the Alco provides power to the traction motors on the unit and they can pull the diesel along. Unfortunately it hasn't ran in many years and is in very poor shape. The Alco is in great shape but blocked on the track behind several cars and can not be moved at this time. They no longer have access to a siding since they were removed from Selfridge ANG.
They are hoping to get funding to build a siding right next to where the train in in the lower photo. This will allow them to move cars around.
Here is a photo of the Alco S-1 that I mentioned in my previous post.
chris a posted:Thanks LUVINDEMTRAINS, I use the 1 inch thick rigid pink foam board insulation for the shallow relief back drop behind the "puff ball trees".... I paint it flat black with latex paint prior to attaching the trees. This entire layout is built in modular form, so if I have to move again, I don't have to start from scratch..... The rigid foam board is great for this as it doesn't weigh much, it easy to shape, is stable in terms of not warping over time and I can hold it to the masonite back drops with either "Velcro" or drive a small headed #6 trim screw through it to hold it in place. Also, I much prefer to do almost all the scenic detailing work in the workshop, rather than in place over the track work. The picture below is what the area looked like before the scenery was moved in place, and a couple of progress shots as the corner scene was being roughed in and built off the table.
Chris,
Thanks for the thorough reply. I thought it was foam board but wanted to make sure. I like that idea. I just started experimenting with puff ball trees and want to do a collage similar to yours.
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