What did you do on your layout today?

not on the layout, but for the layout, put new "used wood" floor in tool room....

paver stones, got  free  from craigslist, in work area....

getting tool boxes in.....

cabinets and bench area.....

getting there.....

Brian, your photos fit right into our precedence of a loosely defined "What did you do on your layout ".  These support your layout, so this is the place! All looking good!!

Ceramic tile.  I have enough ceramic tile for my layout room, given to us before our daughter made it into an art studio.  I am inclined though to just paint the concrete floor and put down that rubber flooring sections in areas I would be on my feet or knees.  The ceramic would sure look better, but...

briansilvermustang posted:

Awfully strange looking gi-raffe ya got there! 

Mitch

M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

briansilvermustang posted:

Awfully strange looking gi-raffe ya got there! 

Mitch

Mitchell you have Giraffes,  He has his rats.. Even they need love.  

Mark, just make sure you buy something good. I made the mistake of buying those $20 4-packs of interlocking tiles for the garage and they are terrible. Oh, they are certainly nice to stand on, but they turn the bottom of your shoes and feet black. I haven't tried washing them yet because I think I'm going to replace them and I might epoxy the garage floor. First I need to check the instructions to see what the recommended temperature range is for doing that and the time to do it is before I start construction on the layout.

Dave,

Excellent tip!  Yes, I can imagine some of those turning shoe soles black.  Well I can't have that.  It will just come off on the rugs!!  Thank you very much!  So you are saying, don't get them from Harbor Freight, I take it?  LOL. I'll remember that!!

Mark,   I kept searching on Craigslist and finally located some 3' x 3' commercial grade carpet tiles, they are 3/8" inches thick with a really dense 3/16" pad built in.  They are sufficiently dense and heavy enough, that gluing them down isn't necessary.... Made by Milliken.... I'd highly recommend something like this, very comfortable to stand on, and crawl around on... The creeper I built rolls easily on it.   They are easy to vacuum with an upright....  I bought like maybe 70 tile, each one a square yard for $275.00 cash... About 3/4 of them were either never used, or placed in low traffic areas.....It's the best thing I ever did.. I painted/sealed the concrete floor first with a product by California Paint, called All-Floor, easy to put down, very low VOC, fast drying, no odors and no need to wear mask when painting with it..

 

Mark, I don't remember where I bought them, but they were on sale and I figured I could't go wrong in the garage. For the most part, they are just fine, but my wife forgets and goes out there without shoes on at times.

Chris, that paint is actually called "Allflor". I tired to find "All-Floor" and nothing came up, so I checked the California Paints site and found the correct name.

Chris,

Thank you for sharing what you did.  Those carpet tiles look like what they have at work.  Yes they would be more comfortable than concrete and my office chair rolls around fine on them.  Great idea!

Also Chris and Dave, thank you for the information on Alflor.  I never heard of California Paints, but maybe lots of folks haven't heard of Pittsburgh Paints!  LOL

Thank you again!

chris a posted:

Mark,   I kept searching on Craigslist and finally located some 3' x 3' commercial grade carpet tiles, they are 3/8" inches thick with a really dense 3/16" pad built in.  They are sufficiently dense and heavy enough, that gluing them down isn't necessary.... Made by Milliken.... I'd highly recommend something like this, very comfortable to stand on, and crawl around on... The creeper I built rolls easily on it.   They are easy to vacuum with an upright....  I bought like maybe 70 tile, each one a square yard for $275.00 cash... About 3/4 of them were either never used, or placed in low traffic areas.....It's the best thing I ever did.. I painted/sealed the concrete floor first with a product by California Paint, called All-Floor, easy to put down, very low VOC, fast drying, no odors and no need to wear mask when painting with it..

 

We use carpet tile exclusively at the University I work at. The stuff is great, even a bunch of college kids can't kill it. We glue ours but as long as the sub floor is not slippery they should be fine just layed in place.

Bob

Today I was able to get the plywood screwed down and the cork glued down. I'll let the glue dry overnight and tomorrow I can paint the cork and hopefully later in the day get the track and ballast down. This module I'll have to get it all ready before I put it in placed because I won't have that much room to do anything later. Pics.........Paul

paul 2 posted:

Today I was able to get the plywood screwed down and the cork glued down. I'll let the glue dry overnight and tomorrow I can paint the cork and hopefully later in the day get the track and ballast down. This module I'll have to get it all ready before I put it in placed because I won't have that much room to do anything later. Pics.........Paul

Looking good there Paul! You sure to nice work,  plus I see you have the top of the line hand cleaner on the sink!

Thanks MIKE G, that bottle of Dawn is what I mix with water for my glue...Paul

Got the cork painted. Was going to do track when dry but I think I will do plaster next. Mainlines are grey and I have been doing black for sidings on this layout. Pic................Paul

The xmas layout is coming along. Sand down and glued, then a top coat of Brennans. Anybody got an idea for that empty right front corner? I have to think about it I guess. 

 

paul 2 posted:

Thanks MIKE G, that bottle of Dawn is what I mix with water for my glue...Paul

Just wondering Paul, What does the Dawn do to the water and glue? Is it like a wetting agent?

Right Mike, I mix Dawn with water and then mix it into the glue. I have an older Elmer's glue bottle with a twist cap which works great. I can drip the glue on or use a smaller stream......Paul

paul 2 posted:

Right Mike, I mix Dawn with water and then mix it into the glue. I have an older Elmer's glue bottle with a twist cap which works great. I can drip the glue on or use a smaller stream......Paul

Thanks Paul, I have heard of it, but never talked to anyone who used it. Wasn't sure if it was a joke or not.

TedW posted:

The xmas layout is coming along. Sand down and glued, then a top coat of Brennans. Anybody got an idea for that empty right front corner? I have to think about it I guess. 

 

Great looking little layout!

gandydancer1950 posted:

TedW posted:

The xmas layout is coming along. Sand down and glued, then a top coat of Brennans. Anybody got an idea for that empty right front corner? I have to think about it I guess. 

Great looking little layout!

Thx. First one I've built. The little mountain was for practice which is why it isn't "winterized".  Not sure what I'll do now, as to apply snow, etc., the way I want, would make it permanent.  Oh well.  Any ideas?

What exactly does the dawn do for the glue mixture? Ive just used alcohol and/or water to thin the mixture and prewet (as I understand it, helps draw glue to the surface as it soaks it itself, basically providing a more gradient mixuture thick to thin; thinner is absorbed more. Achohol and water mix well, more alcohol means faster dry times) (.....I'm I wrong at all?)

Adriatic posted:

What exactly does the dawn do for the glue mixture? Ive just used alcohol and/or water to thin the mixture and prewet (as I understand it, helps draw glue to the surface as it soaks it itself, basically providing a more gradient mixuture thick to thin; thinner is absorbed more. Achohol and water mix well, more alcohol means faster dry times) (.....I'm I wrong at all?)

The detergent breaks down the surface tension of the water allowing it to flow directly in the surface..

Great question Adriatic! and wonderful answer there Woodson! Thank you both for your input!!!

I started working with the free/new/unused Tyco accessories I aquired, the track, etc..

   I had started on a bashed boxcab idea and it inspired me to pay some mind to the display too.

After about 3½ hours, I had recalled all that I had hated about 70s Tyco.

The track and all contacts seemed to reoxidize every 5min; engine herk-a-jerking all the way. The operating boxcar couldn't keep contact on the dock though all seeable contacts are gleaming. It also has issues with the box pushers throw travel(length). There was no torque end the end of the throw. If a crate doesn't eject, it needs to be pushed back in. No second, third, or tenth button press will eject it.

   I might wire the bocar direct ,try more voltage, and glue things down for a non rolling display, but Athern/ Atlas quality...this aint.

  I had an extra motor, a bunch of hackup F-7 panels, had been dreaming on a boxcab, coincidentally looking at the early Cheifs and their evolution into the Bulldog face too. Then later I picked up an N scale jewel case, and noted its size was near spot on HO loco width. A bit later I had this rough outline, loosely based on what I had looked at that day.

Only about a dozen cuts left to flush in the F-7 panels, but I likely wont finish it since I'm expecting the ho ideas to be a wash anyhow, but It was fun getting a rough idea going though. If I land some nickle/silver to replace that old track? Maybe..but that boxcar was the "star". I just wanted something small (and free...I had a theme going, lol) to shunt it with.

 

Wow, lots of great layouts, scenes, and ideas...I just had my dealer add TMCC to my Department 56 Steamer, a junior Hudson, purchased in 1998 from Allied Hobby Shop, and it's quite a performer. I added sounds Also and it really runs super good with the Legacy remote....Now it's a fun to run Locomotive.

TedW, I like the way you made odd cuts to the table. Looks better then a rectangle. I like the look of the tunnels. They do not over power anything. And you have other areas where you can do different little scenes. When it is done it is going to be a interesting Christmas module. Mike G, I found a pic to show the tip I use to glue with. It is the one on the right. I can adjust it from a drip to a small stream. And going back to mixing the dawn I found that as soon as the glue mix hits what I am gluing it soaks right in.  So now rather then start another reply I got the plaster down so that is it for the night. Pic................Paul

Woodson posted:

Adriatic posted:

What exactly does the dawn do for the glue mixture? Ive just used alcohol and/or water to thin the mixture and prewet (as I understand it, helps draw glue to the surface as it soaks it itself, basically providing a more gradient mixuture thick to thin; thinner is absorbed more. Achohol and water mix well, more alcohol means faster dry times) (.....I'm I wrong at all?)

The detergent breaks down the surface tension of the water allowing it to flow directly in the surface..

  I like to understand why something works too. I dont really doubt it does "something ". That's close enough Woodson. I figured it was the same basic reasoning really, but I also have used a drop or two of dawn to increase suface tension on plates of water used as flea traps. A bulb above the plate and they jump at the heat, downing fast in the very mildly soapy water. No foamy bubbles, just a drop or two on a plate. With plain water, they can swim out or even jump out...ok...never mind..I see.

  It is a thicker viscrocity, but less surface tension. I.e. too soft for the flea to stand on, to thick to swim out.

 The bottom line is better wicking for the glue and I imagine alcohol is going to cause trouble somewhere eventually, so not just apples and oranges, more like apples and unpitted cherries. 

  Come to think of it I used dishsoap as a kid on non-train dioramas. But it was pink or Palmolive and just as often flour based as glue back then.

 I really like the overall graphic design on that Dept.56 tender. Elegant, simple as you can get really. I hadn't seen a logo for them before that I recall, but it's like looking into a style mirror. I made and sold off on a set of digital fonts looking very similar in the 80's. ??

..except the "No." font.

  And I'd avoid "NO" near any branding;  #56 or just 56... a smaller point size, and/or lower case "no", if I "had to".

(Yep, last minute nitpicked on my own print days too..."trash that screen...stop the press, gimmie the plate back" lol. Still nice work there )

I didn't do anything on the layout, but I rearranged my Sarge collection, adjacent to the layout. I no longer have them all out, but do have the coolest ones out.
The quonset hut is almost impossible to find in a store, but I lucked up...

Ted,

I really like what you are doing with the Christmas layout.  The curves and angles are good.  I have only made temporary Christmas snow layouts, although last year's version is still up in what is now a spare bedroom.  On that, I used a high grade of batting, better than what you buy at the discount department or sewing/craft stores.  Two years ago I sprinkled fake snow granules on everything.  This past year I didn't, so it doesn't look like a fresh snowfall.  On my permanent layout, I am planning a higher level town to use some of the Dept 56 style buildings we have, since we have more than we can use at Christmas.  I too, will be looking for a more permanent solution.

Larry,

The close ups of the Dept 56 look great!  Where did they come up with the name Dept 56 anyway??  It always catches my eye, I think because I was born in '56.  Anyone who has looked at my profile would see I use 56 in my email address.  

Adriatic,

Tell me about Tyco F7s.  I bought one in a set back in '68 or '69.  I was always cleaning wheels and track.? Besides reading Model Railroader and RMC which favored HO.  I didn't have the money for a Lionel.

The only thing worse was Bachman N Scale steam engines in the '80s!!  It's a wonder I stayed in the hobby!  LOL. I never came around to O Gauge until 2012, though I had some super nice Bachman Spectrum On30 locomotives before that!

Mark Boyce posted:

Ted,

I really like what you are doing with the Christmas layout.  The curves and angles are good.  I have only made temporary Christmas snow layouts, although last year's version is still up in what is now a spare bedroom.  On that, I used a high grade of batting, better than what you buy at the discount department or sewing/craft stores.  Two years ago I sprinkled fake snow granules on everything.  This past year I didn't, so it doesn't look like a fresh snowfall.  On my permanent layout, I am planning a higher level town to use some of the Dept 56 style buildings we have, since we have more than we can use at Christmas.  I too, will be looking for a more permanent solution.

I love winter scene layouts but they need special care to maintain their realism.

gandydancer1950 posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

Ted,

I really like what you are doing with the Christmas layout.  The curves and angles are good.  I have only made temporary Christmas snow layouts, although last year's version is still up in what is now a spare bedroom.  On that, I used a high grade of batting, better than what you buy at the discount department or sewing/craft stores.  Two years ago I sprinkled fake snow granules on everything.  This past year I didn't, so it doesn't look like a fresh snowfall.  On my permanent layout, I am planning a higher level town to use some of the Dept 56 style buildings we have, since we have more than we can use at Christmas.  I too, will be looking for a more permanent solution.

I love winter scene layouts but they need special care to maintain their realism.

I agree can be a pain at times. 

Mark Boyce posted:

Larry,

The close ups of the Dept 56 look great!  Where did they come up with the name Dept 56 anyway??  It always catches my eye, I think because I was born in '56.  Anyone who has looked at my profile would see I use 56 in my email address. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Department_56

Department 56 was founded in 1976. Originally, it was part of Bachman's, a retail florist based in Minneapolis, USA. Bachman’s employed a numbering system to identify each of its departments. The number assigned to the wholesale gift imports division was 56.

Mitch

Thank you, Mitch!!  It is different, but it makes sense!!

I have been busy the past few weeks detailing my MTH light Mikado for the Duluth Missabe and Iron Range Railroad.  This involved first removing the original markings and coal load.   I had to file out part of the support tubing on the engine cowcatcher to make room for longer foot-boards.   I also added foot-boards to the tender, modified the coal bunker and built a “dog-house” to ride on the tender deck.  All parts were constructed from styrene.  Currently the new details are primed and awaiting finish coat and decals for the DM&IRR.  The decals were purchased on eBay before I had bought the engine.  O gauge decals are a hard find.

Now the big question: Does anyone know a brand of paint that would be a suitable color and finish match for MTH’s steam engines?   I’m willing to weather this locomotive to help blend the old and the new if necessary, but would like to start by getting it close.   I'm interested in hearing from anyone with touch-up painting experience on a steam locomotive such as this.    P.S.- I sent a note to MTH requesting information on possible color match.  No response from them at this date.

After it is painted I will add window glazing  to the "doghouse".

My prototype:  #1325 & #1336.   My Mikado will become #1326

Dave

This morning I got a coat of earth color on the plaster. I let it dry for the morning and when I went back down after lunch I thought it was a tad too light so I did a second coat. I'm good with that so once it dries a bit I'll go down after dinner and start ballasting and adding turf. Pics...............Paul

darlander posted:

I have been busy the past few weeks detailing my MTH light Mikado for the Duluth Missabe and Iron Range Railroad.  This involved first removing the original markings and coal load.   I had to file out part of the support tubing on the engine cowcatcher to make room for longer foot-boards.   I also added foot-boards to the tender, modified the coal bunker and built a “dog-house” to ride on the tender deck.  All parts were constructed from styrene.  Currently the new details are primed and awaiting finish coat and decals for the DM&IRR.  The decals were purchased on eBay before I had bought the engine.  O gauge decals are a hard find.

Now the big question: Does anyone know a brand of paint that would be a suitable color and finish match for MTH’s steam engines?   I’m willing to weather this locomotive to help blend the old and the new if necessary, but would like to start by getting it close.   I'm interested in hearing from anyone with touch-up painting experience on a steam locomotive such as this.    P.S.- I sent a note to MTH requesting information on possible color match.  No response from them at this date.

After it is painted I will add window glazing  to the "doghouse".

My prototype:  #1325 & #1336.   My Mikado will become #1326

Dave

Very nice work. I repainted and relettered an MTH Consolidation and I believe I used Rustoleum semi-gloss black, then used Testors Dull-cote after the decals were set.

Nice work Dave and Howard!!

Mark Boyce posted:

Nice work Dave and Howard!!

Thanks Mark and Howard.    Appreciate the painting tip Howard.  Did you repaint the entire engine or only the areas where you added the decals?      I was going add a clear gloss coat over a base color before adding the decals and then use Testers-Dull coat to cut the gloss and seal the decals.   I like the semi gloss approach - cuts out a step.    I assume the Rustoleum semi gloss black was a good color match.   Thanks for your reply.

Dave