just wanted to know what people use to clean the metal trim on ther tinplate trains 
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In the past I used fine and extra fine steel wool for the fragile pieces. Once I purchased a large vibratory tumbler from HF it was a game changer. The mediums last a longtime and they're available at HF.
Pappy is correct, I use the 4 0 (0000) steal wool. is very fine and will leave no scratches. After is is clean I usually wipe down with lacquer thinner then clear the item.
Best results are done if the item has been removed from the train.
On larger couplers and items that are realty dirty I will uses a small brass brush or a Brass wire wheel mounted in a drill press, then use the wool.
I m sure that there are a lot more techniques and maybe i can also get some more ideas on this subject.
Ronh
Originally Posted by Happy Pappy:
In the past I used fine and extra fine steel wool for the fragile pieces. Once I purchased a large vibratory tumbler from HF it was a game changer. The mediums last a longtime and they're available at HF.
Originally Posted by RonH:
Pappy is correct, I use the 4 0 (0000) steal wool. is very fine and will leave no scratches. After is is clean I usually wipe down with lacquer thinner then clear the item.
Best results are done if the item has been removed from the train.
On larger couplers and items that are realty dirty I will uses a small brass brush or a Brass wire wheel mounted in a drill press, then use the wool.
I m sure that there are a lot more techniques and maybe i can also get some more ideas on this subject.
Ronh
Thanks very much 
I use a vibratory polisher filled with Walnut shells and Flitz polish.
I purchased mine elsewhere, but its just a rebranded Berry's tumbler.
Originally Posted by C W Burfle:
I use a vibratory polisher filled with Walnut shells and Flitz polish.
I purchased mine elsewhere, but its just a rebranded Berry's tumbler.
CW,
Folks balk at the cost of vibratory polisher/tumbler. I hope you agree that's no other way to get the parts better than new .
I have owned my vibratory polisher for at least five years. I use it quite frequently. They are fairly bullet proof.
I have had issues with the white wire to the motor breaking off at the crimp terminal that attaches to the motor, but that is easily repaired.
I also have a surplus ultrasonic cleaner. My favorite solvent is....... Simple Green!
I have not cleaned some good trim in a long while. I found a very fast and effective way to do the job instead of waiting for ever for a tumbler, and that avoids using any kind of abrasive. Here are the easy steps:
1. Remove trim from the car or loco.
2. Repair any broken tabs.
3. Repair any damage as much as possible.
4. Use a stripper to remove the original clear coat.
5. Wash thoroughly with soap and water and dry.
6. Use a clean cotton cloth or a felt buffing wheel for your Dremel and buff the parts
using Mothers Mag And Aluminum Polish. Bring to a high luster.
7. Use a fresh clean cotton cloth to wipe clean and do final polishing until they
are to your liking.
8. Apply clear coat and allow to dry.
This process avoids all abrasives, and saves a load of time. You should be able to do a complete loco or cars trim in a few hours.
Tin
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LionelTin,
Yours is a good method that apparently does work for you. My method works very well for what I need. With the physical limitations I now experience, speed no longer enters into the equation. I use pure walnut shells in my vibratory cleaner/polisher. Upon completion of cleaning cycle all I have to do is wipe the pieces with a tack cloth and apply a minimum of five coats of clear.
I hear you Pappy. It takes a pair of good working non-arthritic hands to do it my way, and is why I rarely do it any more. I used a tumbler for a number of years, and found that besides taking weeks to wet tumble to remove dirt and rust (wheels), then weeks dry tumbling, it took forever to get any kind of shine. Further, it was mostly ineffective, rarely polishing to a high enough shine for my liking and always leaving the rouge in the imperfections. It also leaves bits and pieces of walnut shell in the nooks and crannies especially tinplate wheels that took forever to get out. Not worth the frustration. for a while it was such that you could buy almost anything you need new so that has become the easiest route. But now some parts are getting hard or impossible to find again.
Originally Posted by Happy Pappy:
LionelTin,
Yours is a good method that apparently does work for you. My method works very well for what I need. With the physical limitations I now experience, speed no longer enters into the equation. I use pure walnut shells in my vibratory cleaner/polisher. Upon completion of cleaning cycle all I have to do is wipe the pieces with a tack cloth and apply a minimum of five coats of clear.
Pappy what brand and model do you own?? The tumblers I used years ago were the red tin drum that spun on rollers with an electric motor. We used to fill the drum with soapy water and some steel shot and tumble steel parts like axles and wheels for 3 days, cleaning and changing the water once a day. Then a good rinse and drying before tumbling for another 3 to 4 days in jewelers rouge coated walnut shells. Then I usually spent a day cleaning the rouge and shell bits off/out of parts before tumbling for several days in cotton wads. Sensitive parts like brass trim just got the plain walnut shell treatment for a few days and then several days of cotton gobs. Never was pleased with it especially the time it took to get mediocre results. These new vibrating jobs seem to work differently, and faster? How do you do steel parts like axles and wheels?
Tin
Tin,
Please contact me off forum. Information is in my profile.
