What kind of glue for Ameri-Towne ?

David, I'm bumping your thread up since I'm interested in the answers as well and because of a number of new topics, I saw yours descending quickly without any response so far. I know there are many forum modelers with extensive experience with Ameritowne kits (SIRT, Jim Poliscastro, Moonson come to mind, among others).

My own experience is limited, but I used 2-part epoxy or mid-density (gap filling) CA glue and more importantly used 3/8" basswood bracing in the corners so there was much more glueing surface and rigidity. I've always felt that those quarter inch polystrene castings needed more strength during assembly. For what it's worth, I've always primed first, including the edges but I'm not sure that made any difference. I'm curious from the experts why Testors didn't work well since it's supposed to work with polystyrene but maybe there are different kinds or the glue was not fresh. For windows, I've always used G-S Hypo glue or Canopy glue, both of which bond well and leave no residue on the window surface when dry (my nemesis when glueing windows).

Anyway, I'm sure a few of the great modelers on this forum will respond soon.

Jerrman

David,

I use CA glue.

Dave

Dave ,

I was afraid the CA would frost the windows thats why I stayed away from it.

David

What did you use for the "glass"? Did it come with the kit?

quote:

Originally posted by DPC:
Dave ,

I was afraid the CA would frost the windows thats why I stayed away from it.

David

I think the CA is for the wall construction. The CA, if it gets on the window surface, will show.

Jerrman

I have built a number of Ameritown kits and have always used "Bondene". This is a liquid glue put out by Plastruct to glue similar plastics. For disimilar plastics, I will use Plastic Weld Cement. This is also a liquid glue from Plastruct. I use a neddle with a dull point and it works very well. CA type glue will leave a white residue on clear plastic window materials.

Alan Graziano

quote:

Originally posted by Vulcan:
What did you use for the "glass"? Did it come with the kit?

Hey V Why haven't you post on the 3 rail trains thread for favorite buildings YET?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

I'm gonna send a posy down to NC to get you.Folks over there would die to see your idea of some of your favorites.

Moonson--Frank would probably enjoy it too - I know I would.

I used Testors plastic model cement(Orange and white tube) but it wasn't worth a crap.

David

quote:

Originally posted by DPC:

quote:

Originally posted by Vulcan:
What did you use for the "glass"? Did it come with the kit?

Hey V Why haven't you post on the 3 rail trains thread for favorite buildings YET?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

I'm gonna send a posy down to NC to get you.Folks over there would die to see your idea of some of your favorites.

Moonson--Frank would probably enjoy it too - I know I would.

I used Testors plastic model cement(Orange and white tube) but it wasn't worth a crap.

David

I asked what you used for the "glass", not the glue. I used the Testors in the red (or orange)tube and it's always worked for me. However, there are some clear acetates that some glues don't work on.

What's a "posy"?

hey I didn't know how to spell it you know that thing in the westerns where they form a group of men to go out and look for the outlaw.

Firefox had it's own spelling but I wasn't going to use it. It looked a lot like a part of the female anatomy. any way I got the job done.

I can't get those clear window sheets to stick the glue stuck to the building but the clear sheet just fell off.never had that happen before.
The walls didn't glue very well either.

David

Firefox was right.... posse. Thought that's what you meant.

Yeah, you got the job done.

Anything else?

quote:

Originally posted by Vulcan:
Firefox was right.... posse. Thought that's what you meant.

Yeah, you got the job done.

Anything else?

Naw just couldn't get that stupid glue to stick to the clear sheets they gave me for windows.

saw you posted on the other thread Thanks. I don't mind using CA on the walls but I've never had good luck using it on windows . I figured as thin as the clear sheet was the Testors would melt it and bond it to the wall but no luck.

David

David,

Sorry, didn't know you were asking about the windows. CA will haze them. I like Ducco for glass/clear....pretty much everything else too.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by King Mouse:
David,

Sorry, didn't know you were asking about the windows. CA will haze them. I like Ducco for glass/clear....pretty much everything else too.

Dave

Thanks Dave,

Yea I learned early on in N scale if you want frosted windows use CA.

I just never saw anything before this thin that testors couldn't handle.
Thank again for your help

David

I suspect that your glue was old or had been left out for a period of time with the cap off. These liquid cements are volatile and will lose their bonding ability over time. Try a fresh bottle.

quote:

Originally posted by DPC:

quote:

Originally posted by Vulcan:
Firefox was right.... posse. Thought that's what you meant.

Yeah, you got the job done.

Anything else?

Naw just couldn't get that stupid glue to stick to the clear sheets they gave me for windows.

saw you posted on the other thread Thanks. I don't mind using CA on the walls but I've never had good luck using it on windows . I figured as thin as the clear sheet was the Testors would melt it and bond it to the wall but no luck.

David

When I see that real thin stuff I usually throw it out. I don't know what it is but I've never had good luck with the usual glues working on it.

Me either LOL .I'd like to have several 30 x 30 sheets of it as a non stick surface to protect my table top from glue cause I can't get nothin to stick to it.

Looks like I may have to make a trip to The Rail Yard for some clear plastic.

David

Any styrene adhesive will work fine. I like to use Testors # 3507for thick plastic, then reinforce the corners with Evergreen .025 X .025 Strips. Use Testors #3 515 Clear parts cement for the windows. If you want to use super glue, use Plastizap, it will not fog the windows.

David,

I use different glues for the actual structure and for the window glazing.

For the walls, roof and details, I use a liquid plastic cement such as Bondene or Plastic-weld (not the tube stuff). Usually, extra bracing isn't required if you use liberal amounts of glue applied from the inside. But, be careful, and don't touch the joint from the outside with your fingers, or that will wick the glue onto the outside surface and mar it.

But, for glazing I prefer a contact cement such as Walther's Goo or Plumber's Goop. Just a couple of dabs near the edges, well away from the visible portion, is all that's required.

It grabs quickly, and won't flow to where you don't want it. Also, these contact cements work on any kind of glazing from acetate, to styrene, to plexiglas (my choice), to actual glass (microscope slides).

Jim

Zap 560 Canopy Glue

Well problem solved went to Wal-Mart with the wife and found some glue called E-6000 in the craft department . It looks a little like testors but says it's non-toxic . It said it'll bond anything . I shucked the thin stuff from the kits and cut some Lexan panels from some extra I had left over .. worked like a charm .I put the glue on and let it stand for 2 minutes like the directions said and it bonded it just fine .

Thank everyone for your help!!!

David

Thanks for this discussion. I am in the process of painting my first Ameritowne-buildings and have not yet tried to assemble them.

Based on advise I have received or read, I was going to:
- reinforce the walls with either 3/8" basswood or strips of solid styrene
- use interior walls so I can separately light each of the rooms.

This is going at the back of the layout running 25 degrees from the wall to break the "boxy-ness" of the layout as much as possible.
These are just fronts. For separating the rooms I was going to try to use:
- Foamboard
- 0.04" thick styrene sheets.

The foamboard is more firm - but I am afraid of warm from the LED.

Any suggestions on which might be better (or is there a better 3rd alternative?)

For everyone interested in lighting, I finally figured out how to use one Arduino ($25 from radio shack) to control 64 different lights independently. I will post the code as soon as I finish testing everything through.

Sandy,

LED's do not put out any heat. You can lay them right up against the plastic and it won't hurt anything.

That and the fact that they don't use hardly any electricity is why evrybody is using them

David

David,
Thanks. I will try that. I am working on both painting the buildings and the wiring. I decided to take the wiring APART and then photograph it step by step (along with step-by-step pictures of the Arduino program) as a guide to others - especially those that might be "computer-phobic".

Thanks again,
Sandy