What Kind Of Toggle Switches Will I Need

Hi Paul

Suggest posting this in the Electrical Forum.

With that said, we would need more information on what you want to do.  Will you be running Command only, Conventional only or both?  Are you using DCS, TMCC/Legacy or  both?

At a high level I can answer some of your questions.  I run TMCC/Legacy as well as conventional.  I use mini 9amp toggle switches (SPST) for track power to the main lines and to the yard area including the roundhouse.  For turnouts I am using Lionel's SC-2s and ASCs.  However I have used LEDs with SPDT momentary on switches to replace the bulky Lionel 022 switch controllers.  For most accessories I have in the past used a rotary switch to dial the appropriate accessories (i.e. Horse corral, Coal Loader, etc.) and would then use a push button or a spst switch to activate the accessory.  A push button would activate the milk car and the SPST switch would activate the coal loader, horse coral.  For my TT I will be using Lionel's AMC.  In the past I used a DPDT toggle switch to reverse polarity of the TT (DC motor) and  then used a push button to activate the TT.

Good luck.

Whatever you buy, do not buy Radio Shack stuff. Sooner or later they all will go on you.

Push buttons for any accessory that is momentary like, Ice House, Fueling Station.

Toggle switches for items that need to stay on, Saw Mill, Barrel Loader.

For track power to sidings I went with relays under the board so I did not need to run heavy wire from switches out to tracks. This also allowed me to use mini switches at the panel. The relays I used are standard 12volt DC auto relays purchased with sockets and wires off the Bay in bulk. This required adding a 12volt DC power supply to the layout.

Switches, led’s, and meters I purchase here: http://www.led-switch.com/

Mouser Electronics has a wide variety of toggle switches. Buy these rated at what you need. I would not go with DC relays as it means more wiring and another power source. Buy the toggle switches in AC ratings, usually 6 to 10 amps and 50 volts or higher. If you are running Lionel or MTH trains in 3 rail I would stay with AC rated switches.

DC switches are for use with either 2 rail O gauge or H.O.

Lee Fritz

I agree on Radio shack; Half the stuff does not work from the egining. It's a shame, it used to be a good place to buy localy.

   Lowes, menards etc may have some switches also. Don

Hi  Nelson,  I've looked for mini toggle switches and mini push buttons.  I believe 6 amp toggle switches are good enough.  I'm finding 4 amp mini push button switches.  Is 4 amp enough, or should I look for a higher rating ?  It seems to me if it is only a momentary surge, 4 amps should be enough.  Am I on track with that thinking ?

Corvettte (Paul)

Listen to Hugh.  Those things are crap and you will regret buying them. 

Good thread, thanks for starting this. My dad and I are both looking to get some switches in the near future. I am thinking about getting them from "LEDswitch" store on Ebay .

I figure we could get large lots and split them between us. Has anyone used these? They are made in China, but then what isn't these days?

15 pack of 20amp120v DPDT with center off for $26

5 pack of 20amp120v DPDT with center off for$11

Free shipping on both of those. They have single units as well, but @$1.70 + $4 shipping that does not make any sense.

I am also eyeballing  meters at LEDswitch:

20-0-20 Volt and 20-0-20 Amp meter package for $20 / free shipping

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you:

Short answer is yes you should be fine for most all accessories.

Long answer:

If you look at ratings on switches they are usually Amps@125 VAC as the voltage on a switch goes down the number of amps the switch can carry goes up. That rating is for the contacts inside the switch. If you need to carry a higher load through a smaller switch get a double pole switch and jumper the poles together this will split the load over both sets of contacts.

If you ever have a switch or button on your layout that is hot to the touch that means it is not large enough to carry the load being placed on it. Resistance = Heat

Those meters are for DC, not AC.  You want AC meters for your O-gauge use.

As far as switch ratings, the current rating doesn't automatically go up as the voltage goes down, so that's a dangerous assumption to make.  The miniature 6A switches should not be called on to carry more than 6A, for instance.  In truth, the type of current is more important than the rating, switches are frequently de-rated for DC current due to the fact that it never returns to zero and any break arc will be of longer duration.

I am running On30 with DC engines John. I am actually using a computer PSU for my transformer. Those particular meters may not work for Paul's needs, but they do have AC meters as well at that place.

I guess that's the hazards of multiple issues in a single thread.  No way of knowing you happen to be running DC.

I got all our mini toggles and panel meters from here:

http://www.led-switch.com/Mini...0Toggle%20Switch.htm

DPDT mini toggles to throw the Tortoise Switch machines

SPST mini toggles for block control - they're only 6 amps @ 125VAC but we can never more than 1 engine or train in the same block/siding at once so they have worked just fine. Most of the blocks are for the engine tracks which only hold 1-2 engines at a time, so it's not even close to 6amps 

Hi Fellows,

I've been sitting back watching the comments come in on this subject.

Thank you all.  I have learned a lot from you and found places to buy switches from at your suggestion.

The OGR forums are the greatest just because of the information passed on by people who know a lot more than I do.

Thanks,  Corvettte (Paul)

I use these...LED that you can light (use a diode to protect reverse polarity over voltage) and they mount in a round hole. Been working for some years now...

http://www.amazon.com/Cal-Term...Switch/dp/B000CIRJA4

Good find on that LED-switch website, Laidoff, it is the same store that I linked to on Ebay. It appears that their prices are a fuzz lower than what they have on Ebay, but there are shipping charges so I bet the price is pretty much a wash. One advantage I see for sure by ordering from their site directly is that you can pick exactly how many switches you want rather than a set number package. After hearing about your positive experience with their items I think I will go ahead and order from them. Just need to sit down and figure out if it actually is cheaper to order from them directly or go with the one-click ease of buying them off of the bay.

Hugh,

If I said it was 'white', you would disagree and say it was 'black'. Get a life!

Don't flatter yourself.

I was actually only sorry to disagree with Marty, whose opinions I totally respect, even when we disagree (which isn't all that often).

If it was only you with whom I disagreed, I wouldn't have bothered to mention that I was "sorry" at all.

Owen, that's how I originally found their website was by ordering from them on Ebay. When I got my shipment, they had put a business card in the order with a direct phone # and website address. Prices are a bit cheaper and you can order exactly what you need. I have ordered from them many times and never had a problem. If you have technical questions before you buy, email them and they answer quick with all the answers. As a seller myself, I'd rather not have them pay any fees to Ebay from using that site. I'll go direct and save them the fees even if it cost me an extra couple bucks.

Hi Paul,

Having a scratch built turntable on my layout, I'm not quite sure what you plan on doing with your turntable area?

I use a HO transformer to power the motor that turns my turntable bridge.

Some folks use a rotary switch to power the tracks near the turntable, I just used Atlas triple switches.  Whatever, you use, your thought of only powering one track at a time is a good one.  I think, however, that you want to have a separate toggle switch for the turntable bridge track, as you most likely will want to have an engine section AND the turntable bridge track powered on at the same time.

Jim

To  Marty,

Now that I am ready to start buying the toggle, push button, and rotary switches, I go on the Internet and find many, many website that sell mini switches.

I don't know what is junk and what is not.  I just don't know who to buy from for fear that their products will be worst than Radio Shacks.

Is there a website or store that I can trust to sell quality mini switches even if I have to pay a little more ?

Thanks,  Corvettte (Paul)

Buy brand name switches.  For mini-switches, I use C&K brand.

Also, in need of a new supply for rotary switches for 4+/- amp   DC conventional. 

Mauser has some but they are priced at $27 each.   Anything at a better price point? tt 

We need several dozen 15/32" ON-OFF-ON bezels only as shown mounted on the threads of this switch for d.p.d.t. operation.

We also need ON-OFF plates for several dozen 15/32" necks of s.p.s.t. toggles.

Any idea where they may be available?  Mouser has no stock on either.

Thank you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toggle...;hash=item2329b36f3e

I would email gunrunnerjohn and get his source.  If we start throwing brand names about, it will get confusing. 

Ok  All,

My head is swimming after all the input, but I think I'm a little better off with all the input.

I think I will settle on Parts Express (if this is not a good place to buy switches from, let me know).

The reason for this choice is, they are located here in the states, they have a phone number I can call for help, and a smaller reason, after a $98 purchase, the freight is free.

I'm assuming that if I buy all toggle switches with a 6 amp rating, I'll be ok.

Now I need to know something about the next step.

My layout will have approximately 50 turnouts. 

I am not going to use any of the original turnout switches that come with them (too bulky).  I want to use all mini toggle switches.

Next, operating accessories.

Next, on-off accessories.

House lighting (also want to put them on a dimmer switch)

Street lighting (also on dimmer switch)

And what ever.

Rotary switch for the turntable to turn it ?

Rotary switch for all the tracks around the turntable and in the roundhouse to turn on only the track I want to use at the moment ?

What I am fuzzy on is, what kind of toggle switches are needed for each application (ie, SPST - SPDT - DPST - DPDT  ?????  for what applications.

Thanks for the help,  Corvettte (Paul)

That led-switch.com looks good too.

Corvettte