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My new home came with a train room on top! It was a quick delivery home, meaning that we had 0.zip input to the options.

That said, they did provide 4 high hats and a ceiling fan outlet. I am thinking that I will use the two ceiling fan circuits for two rows of track lighting. The wall on the right will be full of rail racks with the layout about 2 feet off the wall. The controls will be on the end where I stood to take the picture. The other picture shows a sample of the heads that I brought with me. I have about 10 of these.

 

My goals are to provide some spots for my wall of trains, light to work by and lighting to enhance photos; without cutting holes in the ceiling or constructing soffits, etc..

Any suggestions?

 

 

 

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I replaced the halogen flood lamps in the track light system in my train room with long neck PAR 30 LED flood lamps equivalent to 75 watt halogen floods. The heat problem and high wattage of the halogen floods was eliminated. In the 2 years since I made this changeover, the cost of LEDs has decreased significantly.

Pennsy,

 

Take a look at some of my train videos on my channel:  https://www.youtube.com/user/NativeFLA/videos

 

I have similar spot lights on a track system,  all LED now for about the last 4 years.  With 12 lights previous to LED,  the Halogen bulbs built up a high heat level.   Plus the energy savings now,  I went from 500 total watts to 25 total watts used now,  same light level.

 

The effect speaks for itself and is subjective,  but I like what I have,  along with the fact I can move any of the lights to focus on whatever I want at a given moment.

 

Mark

I also used track lights with LED bulbs. the heat level is down, and I have 16 lights replacing 5 halogen bulbs, using less power. I can add more lights if I need them.

 

I find the track lights great, as you can direct them where needed on the layout, and add more lights in areas that need it. Very flexible and easy to attach the track to the ceiling. All my lights work off one circuit, as the power draw is low and the tracks are easy to connect.

 

Good luck: Joe K

I agree with all the suggestions for use of your track lighting, but also want to mention that, for photography purposes, such track lighting tends to be rather evenly distributed and "flat", without shadows. You might consider also using a "can" light on a tripod (I use a quartz tungsten light that my wife bought for photographing art) either as a supplement, or instead of, my track lighting to create shadows and other effects.

   Bob A.

 

 

video setup

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My train room is completely LED based - 115 VAC track (w/ LED bulbs), 12 VDC RGB LED strip lights, LED Rope Light and Christmas/Halloween LED string lights. With the exception of some trains and a few older Lionel & Dept 56 items, my layout is also almost all LED's.

 

Heat and color control were my main objectives for using the LED's.

 

Jim

Last edited by jj1138

Good point on the Miller Engineering signs, and by extension, other Electro Luminescent lighting.  I use colored EL wire as fencing around an upper level plus several Miller Engineering signs (and I have a few more to install yet). An 8"x10" plain white EL sheet made an interesting lighted ice skating pond.

 

Jim

 

 

I to recommend track lighting with LED bulbs. Specifically BR20, they are usually found in 50 and 75 watt equivalents.  BR20 are smaller than BR30's.  With an 8' ceiling it makes a difference.  Also, you want lots of low power lights not a few high power lights. These are wide floods not spots, so you don't get uneven lighting.  All of your lighting should be of the same type and color or it will confuse the white balance of digital cameras. Count your watts and get the right type of dimmer.  If you go LED, go all LED.  Place the tracks about 18" or so away from the edge of the layout so you can aim the lights towards the layout and away from the viewers eyes.  Most LED's have a CRI of 82 but there are some with a CRI in the 90's.  I haven't been able to tell the difference.

Lot's of choices, good luck.

Dan

I installed a 22" LED fixture in my kitchen, replacing a 4-bulb fluorescent fixture and the light intensity is the same, very bright.

Afterwards I installed 2 of the same type fixture in the train room/upstairs.  The upstairs is divided into to halves, with 1 fixture in a 12x24 section (where the layout is located) and the other fixture in a 18x24 section, with stairway and wall in between.  I also have a 24", 2-bulb fluorescent fixture over the stairway.  The ceiling upstairs (1940s Cape Cod) is 7' tall.

In the larger section with the stairway (1 LED, 1 fluroescent) the light is great, but in the smaller section I have some shadows when walking inside the layout, the fixture is centered in the room.  I think it's mainly because of the low ceiling (the ceiling in the kitchen is 8'), but I also have the walls painted blue in the layout room, which may be toning down the light.  It could also be the side with the LED and fluorescent fixtures just has more light output.

I need to buy another LED fixture for the train room, but Lowes stopped carrying that particular fixture.

Also, make sure you get enough (of the same type) LED bulbs for your needs.  I have a ceiling fan in a small bedroom that I thought had 2 candelabra-based bulbs in it, so I bought 2 LED bulbs to replace them.  As it turned out it had 3, so I went back to Walmart to get another.  The boxes didn't quite look the same and when I got home I realized the 1st 2 were cool white and the 3rd is warm white, big difference.

As I have to replace lights, I'll upgrade to LEDs.  Not having to replace them as often (I haven't had to replace one yet) is worth the extra $$$, plus they last a looong time and no heat buildup.

With thanks to David and Bob for waking me up about this post. I got so involved that I completely forgot to respond earlier. I followed advice given here and obtained Par 20 LEDs. I found heads at LOWES that have a dual lens so they can be made floods or spots. Works for me, with the four hihats and 10 combos I have plenty of light. The LEDs are on a dimmer so I can do some scene creation as well.

A belated thanks to all for your help.

BTW My son's pool table benefited from my discarded heads pictured above.

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