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I'm looking to start building some craftsman kits and was looking for advise on where to start. I see the kits vary a great deal in price, materials, details, complexity etc.  I love the look of Stoney Creek Designs and B.T.S kits.  I know these are higher end kits and I'm willing to pay more for nicer kits, are there others I should look at?  Also I realize there are kits for different skill levels so where to start?  My other hobby is building furniture so I'm used to making things but I realize this involves a whole different set of skills.  This is a great place for info, are there other sites/resources I should look at for learning how to build these kits?  Also, is there a list of recommended tools needed to get started?

 

I am amazed at the work I see here and have been inspired to learn how to do this myself. 

 

I know I have a a bunch of questions but this is probably a good start.  I appreciate any and all help. 

 

Thanks,

John

Last edited by John Clifford
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I would think that a smaller, simpler, but stick built wooden component kit might be

the best place to start, from which you can learn all the skills you need for any of

the kits out there, up to that $1000 stamp mill kit, Korber kits, whatever.   As said above, if you build furniture, you can use that wood glue and probably have the skills you need, only need to think smaller.

Originally Posted by John Clifford:

............I'd most like to learn is all the weathering that you guys do to make your models look so real.  

 

I'm open to any and all advise.

That's more of an art form and it's best learned by trying and putting to practice, practice, practice the various techniques until you get a good handle on those that work best for you.

John:

I was also a wood worker when I crossed over into model railroad structure building. I started with wood bridges and decking then got into plastic scratchbuilding. I echo what mwb says. It will come natural to you since you have the tools and mindset (nothing like a good ol' table saw to make straight cuts plastic!).

WRT weathering just do a search on YouTube for weathering structures and you will have enough videos to last a good while!

For my work I tend to rely on spray cans for initial weathering then if needed I go to powder.

Good luck

Joe

Mr. Clifford,

 

Bar Mills Models,

Model Tech Studios,

Banta Model Works,

BTS,

Laserkit.com,

Mount Blue Model Co,

Branchline trains,

-http://www.kitwoodhillmodels.com/railway-structures/

-www.minutemanscalemodels.com/aboutus.asp

-https://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/oscale/oscale.shtml

-http://www.cheapsk8buildings.com/building-descriptions.html

-http://foslimited.com//index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14&zenid=b07e428de6396b0a01a2fc0a5282a360

-http://www.rustystumps.com/products.asp?cat=3

 

All supply wood kits.

All of which I have model of on my model RR that I bashed into something else..

Tools.. 

-wood glue of course.

-sanding blocks

-90 degree blocks to make the building square.

-sharp hobby knives. 

-if you're going to stain the building, then do it before you glue as the glue acts as a block and the stains won't stain the wood.

-on large walls, make sure you glue to the back side, stiffeners.. because if you paint the outsides with water based paints, the walls will warp.

-paper towel that is damp to take excess glue off the walls.

-weights.. these are used when gluing the back stiffeners. or th water based glue will then wrap and the stiffeners won't be straight and flat… 

-prepaint the corner pieces before gluing together. it is easier.. 

-prepaint the walls too before putting the structure together.. 

-I also spray paint the interiors black.. 

 

Hopefully these are some tips before you get into working your first wood kit that

you can use and helps you build a great 1st model.

 

Take care, Good luck!

Dan

Thank you for the responses, I appreciate the help. I have a few kits that I've bought recently. I have:

 

Model Tech

DPM (I think that's what it's called)

2 Korber

Branchline laser art

Banta

and a Stoney Creek Designs on the way. 

 

I can already see the differences in the various kits materials and instructions. I can already tell I'm liking the more expensive kits. I'll have to get building and see what I like and don't like. One thing is for sure, there's a lot of options out there that I was never aware of. 

 

 

Thanks again,

John

John if you will send me an e-mail, I will send you a couple of lists that will probably be helpful. I have a spreadsheet with sources divided into structures, lighting, furniture and fixtures, people, etc. 

 

We buy most of our stuff on-line and it really saves a lot of time. I will be glad to add some notes on which ones we prefer and why.

 

Hope it will help you. My e-mail address is in my info.

 

We do the interiors of many of the buildings that we build. Do you plan to do them, lighting, etc? It is not difficult and really adds a lot if you are so inclined. Also have some sources for good weathering techniques.

Originally Posted by AG - River Leaf Models:

Thank you a lot for your confidence, guys!

You will not be disappointed!

Frank, are you going to visit York?

Andre.

I can't, Andre. Ideally, I'd like to have been there in my usual spot and inviting you to use some of that space (a plan I had been considering which I had not mentioned to you, though) for your display of River Leaf, but I won't be present at all this Meet.

Be well and have great success. And say Hello to our friend, Frank, for me. Have fun.

FrankM.

Another factor is how much time you wish to put into building a kit. The Stoney Creek kits are great, come with terrific instructional CDs, but involve a lot of work. The buildings always involve a great deal of personality.

 

Steam Era Structures is at the same end of the spectrum. I don't think he is active, but I see his kits once in a while. I have bought all of them (about 12), am building one now and have one more to go. Fabulous structures. His approach to kits is unique: you get a bunch of sheet material and stripwood, and an incredibly detailed set of drawings and templates. I love this guy, hope he is well.

Originally Posted by BXCXDan:

Mr. Clifford,

 

Bar Mills Models,

Model Tech Studios,

Banta Model Works,

BTS,

Laserkit.com,

Mount Blue Model Co,

Branchline trains,

-http://www.kitwoodhillmodels.com/railway-structures/

-www.minutemanscalemodels.com/aboutus.asp

-https://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/oscale/oscale.shtml

-http://www.cheapsk8buildings.com/building-descriptions.html

-http://foslimited.com//index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14&zenid=b07e428de6396b0a01a2fc0a5282a360

-http://www.rustystumps.com/products.asp?cat=3

 

All supply wood kits.

All of which I have model of on my model RR that I bashed into something else..

Tools.. 

-wood glue of course.

-sanding blocks

Assortment of paper 100 grit up to 400 grit

-90 degree blocks to make the building square.

Clamps. Sears has an assortment of spring loaded clamps that is a good start.

-sharp hobby knives. 

And a good straight edge to be used with the cutting tools.

-if you're going to stain the building, then do it before you glue as the glue acts as a block and the stains won't stain the wood.

I like Min-Wax stains.  Golden Oak, great for flooring, and Dark Walnut, for trim.

-on large walls, make sure you glue to the back side, stiffeners.. because if you paint the outsides with water based paints, the walls will warp.

A lot of the detailed (BTS kits, as an example) suggest paint both side of the wood sheets. Inhibits curling and seals the wood from future moisture problems.

I use Krylon and Rust-oleum Camoflaug paints as a basic beginning project.  The drab, subdued colors seem to work well for basic old building paint colors.

 

-paper towel that is damp to take excess glue off the walls.

-weights.. these are used when gluing the back stiffeners. or th water based glue will then wrap and the stiffeners won't be straight and flat… 

-prepaint the corner pieces before gluing together. it is easier..

White glue shrinks dramatically. Apply and let set, tack-up before application of the part, wet, runny glue can be problematic. IMO.  

-prepaint the walls too before putting the structure together.. 

Both side, you may want to paint parts before removed from the punch cards.

-I also spray paint the interiors black.. 

I spray paint both side of wall panels the same color.  I have paint roof panels white.

 

Hopefully these are some tips before you get into working your first wood kit that

you can use and helps you build a great 1st model.

Usually not part of a kit.  I fabricate a model base that allows for basic construction application of square, true, plumb, etc.  If it applies to 1:1 buildings it applies to these models. 

Read the instruction, may be a couple of times.

Inventory the parts, at the least, this to get familiar with the kit.

Develop a assembly plan that is coordinated with the instructions.

Take your time and have fun,

 Mike CT

 

Take care, Good luck!

Dan

 

Originally Posted by Mike CT:
Originally Posted by BXCXDan:

Mr. Clifford,

 

Bar Mills Models,

Model Tech Studios,

Banta Model Works,

BTS,

Laserkit.com,

Mount Blue Model Co,

Branchline trains,

-http://www.kitwoodhillmodels.com/railway-structures/

-www.minutemanscalemodels.com/aboutus.asp

-https://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/oscale/oscale.shtml

-http://www.cheapsk8buildings.com/building-descriptions.html

-http://foslimited.com//index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14&zenid=b07e428de6396b0a01a2fc0a5282a360

-http://www.rustystumps.com/products.asp?cat=3

 

All supply wood kits.

All of which I have model of on my model RR that I bashed into something else..

Tools.. 

-wood glue of course.

-sanding blocks

Assortment of paper 100 grit up to 400 grit

-90 degree blocks to make the building square.

Clamps. Sears has an assortment of spring loaded clamps that is a good start.

-sharp hobby knives. 

And a good straight edge to be used with the cutting tools.

-if you're going to stain the building, then do it before you glue as the glue acts as a block and the stains won't stain the wood.

I like Min-Wax stains.  Golden Oak, great for flooring, and Dark Walnut, for trim.

-on large walls, make sure you glue to the back side, stiffeners.. because if you paint the outsides with water based paints, the walls will warp.

A lot of the detailed (BTS kits, as an example) suggest paint both side of the wood sheets. Inhibits curling and seals the wood from future moisture problems.

I use Krylon and Rust-oleum Camoflaug paints as a basic beginning project.  The drab, subdued colors seem to work well for basic old building paint colors.

 

-paper towel that is damp to take excess glue off the walls.

-weights.. these are used when gluing the back stiffeners. or th water based glue will then wrap and the stiffeners won't be straight and flat… 

-prepaint the corner pieces before gluing together. it is easier..

White glue shrinks dramatically. Apply and let set, tack-up before application of the part, wet, runny glue can be problematic. IMO.  

-prepaint the walls too before putting the structure together.. 

Both side, you may want to paint parts before removed from the punch cards.

-I also spray paint the interiors black.. 

I spray paint both side of wall panels the same color.  I have paint roof panels white.

 

Hopefully these are some tips before you get into working your first wood kit that

you can use and helps you build a great 1st model.

Usually not part of a kit.  I fabricate a model base that allows for basic construction application of square, true, plumb, etc.  If it applies to 1:1 buildings it applies to these models. 

Read the instruction, may be a couple of times.

Inventory the parts, at the least, this to get familiar with the kit.

Develop a assembly plan that is coordinated with the instructions.

Take your time and have fun,

 Mike CT

 

Take care, Good luck!

Dan

 

Goes with building a model base, but having a good reliably flat work surface is a must.

 

I have 4 sheets of 1/4" glass ~18 x 24" in my bench at use at any given time.

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