I am building another awesome Ameritown building. I am so bad....at gluing the windows in...I am using Sinbad glue now and it seems fine.
But....I always make a mess of the windows. Sinbad holds them better than the canopy glue I was using but I still am very very bad at this.
Is there an easier way or material for us folks who have such a hard time getting this step right?
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White glue.
John, I also use a pair of tweezers. Also a tacky white glue is very good.
Why would you use glue? This is the acetate inside the window openings?
Scotch tape. Been using it for years.
Yea I don't know what that crud is made of but It makes a great non stick surface.
I tossed it in the garbage and used some plexiglass I had.
Testors bonded it just fine
David
John,
Look for some double-sided Scotch tape. You can trim it to suit so it doesn't show and it'll hold the window "glass" in place just fine. Plus you can pull it off if you need to.
Are we making this harder than it should be? One acetate sheet and one interior backround. A lot of glue application area away from the windows. I used contact adhesive with care. Acetate and interior printed sheets were applied before assembly.
Back side.
Side.
On the layout.
I did apply several windows as single pieces. Cut oversized, then held in place dry, applying CA Cyanoacralate (Medium set Super glue) to the edge of the window. The CA has very good capillary action and will suck-in, gluing the window in place. There are different application techniques. Sometimes I place a small drop of CA on a sandwich bag, then dip a small brass wire in the drop and apply a small amount of CA. Applying CA directly from the container can be problematic, requires some practice also.
Note the dark red corners of the acetate windows where the CA was applied. Usually the capillary action doesn't go beyond the edge of the window. It doesn't need adhesive beyond holding it in place. It should set quickly. A building like this has a lot of practice in it. About (40) different applications all done before final assembly.
Mike:
I know the windows printed on Ameritowne graphic sheets are spaced, but I admit this is the first time I have ever seen someone place the whole sheet.
I make way too much work myself by applying them individually.
As for John's dilemma, there is so much extra acetate with every kit, just cut the acetate 1/4 - 1/2" larger than the window and use scotch tape.
Buy a Mac! 
Buy a Mac!
A Mac,A Big Mac or a Mack?
One I can eat one I can drive but I don't know what to do with the other one.
David
Mike:
I know the windows printed on Ameritowne graphic sheets are spaced, but I admit this is the first time I have ever seen someone place the whole sheet.
I make way too much work myself by applying them individually. 
Ya Harry I've done it both ways, but then it is a hobby. Nothing cut and dry, you can do pretty much what you want. The acetate sheet doesn't set perfectly flat as one piece, you may notice some roll in the simulated glass, though it doesn't show in the photo with my camera. Dr. John needs to know that most of us have done things one way, and maybe the next time we try something else. There are many Aw Shoots out there. 
As for John's dilemma, there is so much extra acetate with every kit, just cut the acetate 1/4 - 1/2" larger than the window and use scotch tape.
Dr. Sherwood, I like Mr Doyle's suggestion. Try using scotch tape on one window and if you are able to do it with no trouble then stay with it. Doctor, how are you making out with your new layout? I hope you decided to pass on a turntable until a later time. Don't forget to keep it simple.
John,
If you haven't guessed by now there is both a wealth of knowledge here and a wealth of friends willing to help each other.
I think back to the days before the computer when I had to experiment myself and learn myself. Those who are starting out are very lucky these days to have a forum like OGR. Wish it'd been around 40 years ago.
David
In my HO days, I would lay a side of the building face down, position the plastic "glass" where I wanted it, and then place 1 dab of Testor's model glue on the edge of each corner. Then walk away from it for a day while the glue would set up. Never had a problem with glue in the window or windows falling out.
Fred
I have been using some stuff called Liquid PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) from Micro-Mark. It's specifically intended for windows, among other applications. It is clear, water-based, and remains tacky. You put it on both surfaces to be joined, let it dry for a few minutes, then stick them together. It never really dries so you can clean up any excess with water.
There is also a product called Canopy Glue (white glue) made specifically for attaching the clear plastic windshields (or canopies) to model airplanes. It is great for windows and dries clear. I also used it to glue a piece of plexi-glass to my pool heater because the factory film covering the digital temperature readout had disintegrated. The stuff is great and nearly idiot proof.
Canopy glue is what I use and if I make a mistake while using it, I just wash it off the window and try again. I like it much better than other methods I used to use.
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