Skip to main content

I had a rather poor experience with the WBB locos I once owned and an even worse experience with WBB's personnel and service. 

 

I'm considering giving them a second chance. One issue I had with their locos was when stopping, they would emit a loud squeal. Lubricating everything, including the motor shaft as directed by WBB did nothing. Both of my engines had this issue. A friend with numerous WBB engines also has this on at least one of his engines. 

 

Since this is appears to be a rather common "issue" can anyone speak as to the cause and resolution? Returning to WBB found everything deemed "a-ok" also. 

 

Thanks. 

Last edited by SJC
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

If you returned it for a significant squeal, Id say you have a gripe.

If its just a little squeak tough. you could say its brake squeal, because that is just as likely its only plastic vibration, and here to stay at least a while.

I have a Lionel 0-4-0 mpc, that squealed for years on startup, but thinking on it, it stopped! My WbB BL-2 was silent.

 

  The most common issue with other Bachmann products in general seems to be gear cracks at the axle boss/hole. They can cause squeal, and can be hard to spot. They usually offer a free set if there is a model run issue, and high supply, even if they haven't cracked yet. All bearing type areas should be checked for play. I would also try and determine if excessive thrust, or run out, is present at the motor shaft

 

My Bachmann experiences have varied (though no O yet).

 That said, it was frustrating. But actually better, and friendlier than most customer services I've dealt with in life.

 

  So contact "customer service" if its that bad a gripe.

(Be nice, but firm and truthful in your feelings about the case).

 Parts for ordering, & rma info (the nice lady that normally answered phones)(to get yelled at constantly)(but was so nice).

 Techs I've talked to. You may need to too now. But I try to leave them alone to fix things.

My Emails have been answered by many there, so I don't know who does that normally. but it is the best way to start every contact.

I get the feeling everyone there helps out when, where, and as needed. 

E-mail should include a day phone number too, and then make a phone follow up if necessary.

Specific notes attached to the train so they issues aren't missed, mixed up, or skipped.

 

Originally Posted by SJC:

So basically this is caused (likely) by a loose flywheel? Seems like it has happened/happens on every WBB engine I have seen. Good to know. Any long term effects with this? 

The only disadvantages long term are a few. 1) Eventually the upper shaft on the motor could become out of round and wear the flywheel opening into a egg shape. This would render the flywheel useless. At this point you would need to replace the entire assembly, motor and flywheel. 2) When the flywheel becomes almost useless you could experience derailments almost anytime when stopping, especially on a curve.

 

I would suggest that you contact, Frank Timko. He can make permanent repairs while it still early in the game. Rather than having to replace the entire assembly. Frank is a real genius...IMHO 

 If it is the flywheel, loose, but not egged. I simply would try pressing it off, and then back on, using Loctite red first, not glues. Many Loctite products will harden, then re-soften with mild heat if you have to remove it later (normally, they will remain tacky enough to keep threads from turning when hot too).

But any egging would require trueing run outs, to avoid being out of balance bad.

 

I would think a new flywheel could be found, or even made, pretty easy. 

 Timko's got a rep. for outstanding work, but turnaround times will vary with workloads. He also does some cool motor retrofit parts/work.   

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×