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Williams GP30 modified for series motor operation

 

The wiring to my NYC GP30 chassis was modified to provide series motor operation.  This effectively reduces the top speed of the engine. In addition the metal weights were relocated from the fuel tank area so that more weight was directly over the front and rear trucks. Detailed wiring diagrams are attached.

 

Note: This post is intended as information for the general reader. If others care to comment on the topic or contribute ideas to further the modeling activity it is there option to do so.

 

 

WILLIAMS GP30 NYC 007

williams gp30 chassis 001

williams gp30 chassis 002

williams gp30 chassis 003

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Last edited by pro hobby
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FYI while I know how to do series wiring (I've done it on a couple of Williams engines in the past) the average lay person is not going to be able to tell the difference between how wiring is done in series vs. the stock parallel wiring just by going off your pictures alone.

 

Suggest that you use before & after shots and use a photo editing software to add some visual aids (i.e. draw arrows in the images pointing to where the wiring is reversed) and type some up some descriptions so they can better comprehend how it's done and be able to tell the difference.  Otherwise, you're just preaching to the choir for those that already understand these things and just confuse everyone else.

Last edited by John Korling
Originally Posted by John Korling:

FYI while I know how to do series wiring (I've done it on a couple of Williams engines in the past) the average lay person is not going to be able to tell the difference between how wiring is done in series vs. the stock parallel wiring just by going off your pictures alone.

 

Suggest that you use before & after shots and use a photo editing software to add some visual aids (i.e. draw arrows in the images pointing to where the wiring is reversed) and type some up some descriptions so they can better comprehend how it's done and be able to tell the difference.  Otherwise, you're just preaching to the choir for those that already understand these things and just confuse everyone else.

 

Detailed before and after wiring diagrams have been added for the GP30.

Attachments

While it will cut your speed down a good deal, it will also give more power to the wheelset that looses traction.

Of coarse I could easily re-wire the motors but why, when I have a better transformer?

 

I have found a transformer that works better and you don't need to do any re-wiring. It is the TAC 2001 made by Troller Company. It has a switch for 0-9 & 0-18 volts on it, so you set the voltage range and not worry about going too fast.

 

Lee Fritz

Last edited by phillyreading
Originally Posted by phillyreading:

...Of coarse I could easily re-wire the motors but why, when I have a better transformer?

Better bulb illumination, better track powered accessory operation(uncouple sections, eg.), better power transmission(lower losses at higher voltages), among others.

 

Originally Posted by phillyreading:
I have found a transformer that works better and you don't need to do any re-wiring. It is the TAC 2001 made by Troller Company. It has a switch for 0-9 & 0-18 volts on it, so you set the voltage range and not worry about going too fast.

 

Lee Fritz

That will cure the jackrabbit start issue with the typical postwar transformer, but many modern power supplies start at zero volts, even the "lowly"(in many people's opinions) CW/BW/PowerMax starter set transformers.

 

That is an excellent solution for the top speed issue, however.  I have 5 of the TAC 2001 transformers, and really like them.  I think the power output on these is underrated, as with the Lionel MW & RS-1 models.

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