Wiring Question

Are you running AC input for all loops on the TIU?  If so you can use a VAR and configure it for Fixed output and run 3 independent loops off 1 TIU.  Using F1/2 and V1 or 2.

 

If your using DC voltage for the G, you have to use the Fixed outputs, but the VAR can be used for the O loop in fixed as long as AC input.   G

Thanks I am using the Z-4000 for power. So I just need to configure my VAR using the handset? Am I ok wiring two tracks to a terminal block and powering the track that way or should I bypass and wire directly to the TIU?

 

So I am going to configure VAR for Fixed and then run my three pair of wires to the TIU and then three pair wires to the Z-4000 - correct? I have never run the G scale, is set up the same, search for engine, add engine and then I'm good to go?   

You have to set VAR1 and VAR2 separately to fixed voltage. (Four fixed voltage outputs).

 

Menu/System/DCS setup/TIU1/Variable 1/soft key FXD.

Menu/System/DCS setup/TIU1/Variable 2/soft key FXD.

They should stay that way even when the TIU is powered off, until you reset them to Variable.

Works well for our (4) main track Club layout.

Mike CT

Monk, a single FIXED circuit will run a lot more than 2 O gauge locos.  What do you mean by sticking?

 

FYI, DCS will also run on VARIABLE circuits set to Variable.  SImply scroll the voltage up to 18 or so.  There is no reason why you can't run 4 loops on one TIU.

By sticking i meant I had three mth units running as a lash up. It would simply stop running at one point in the loop. Close to the power source. I also got a 10 reading when doing a track level test. It did this a number of times at the same point on the loop. I couldn't see anything wrong with the track other than a very slight gap in the rail joint. I'm using lgb fasttrax  or railtrax the molded type. I was thinking connecting thru the terminal block the two loops might cause the problem. I'll have another go this week.

By sticking i meant I had three mth units running as a lash up. It would simply stop running at one point in the loop. Close to the power source

That is absolutely not a DCS problem, rather, your engines are losing power.

Your single Z-4000 only has 2 channels useful for powering trains.  The other channels are really for accessories.

 

My recommendation would be to power 2 channels via the Z-4000, dedicating 1 handle output per a channel.  Get a second transformer appropriate for the 3rd loop (Z-1000) or Lionel Power House 180W and power the 3rd channel.

 

Finally, the TIU needs power too and you might want to make it independent of the transformers.  You could feed it via Aux input with an appropriate smaller transformer or walwart.   G

GGG that kinda opposite what others are saying. I have a Z-500 and Z-750 laying around for some reason. If I use the Z-750 to power the third track, how and where do I hook up to the TIU? I can use the z-500 for the tiu but for some reason I can't get my head around the TIU hookup to the track. Maybe I'm missing something, I guess the TIU communicates with the handheld but how do those commands get communicated to the track?

 

I am hoping to get the Wi-Fi upgrade when it comes out, I assume that will simplify my setup  

No I am being consistent.  No one else addressed your Z-4000 as input.

 

The TIU can handle 4 independent tracks.  So you just send Fixed 1 to a loop, Fixed 2 to the second loop, VAR1 to a third and VAR 2 to a fourth.

 

BUT each of those TIU channels needs power.  If you power all 4 from a single transformer your limiting what you can run because your limiting factor is the transformer power limit.

 

The Z-4000 only has 2 output that can go up to 18-22V.  The others are only accessory outputs with limited current available.  And 10 and 14V.  Not enough for command engines.

 

A normal set up is to provide 18V and 10 amps power to a track.  That is 180W like the Lionel Power House Brick or the output of the ZW-C or Z-4000.

 

All I am saying is you might find trying to run four loops off one transformer will over loaded.  Unless your just running a simple starter set.   G

Monk, I don't see wifi as simplifying your setup.  It simply replaces the remote, and untill the $24.99 version comes out in 2016, won't do as much.

 I run my G scale under DCS the same way I run my O scale. Nothing is any different. The boards are basically the same and don't know what engine they're in!

If you choose to use DC power for it, then you loose the variable channels of the TIU. If you're already running AC, stick with that.

 G is giving you all the info and you need to look at it all carefully to understand. Ask any questions to help clarify. It sounds like you need to learn what command control really is and how to achieve it on the layout, as your layout grows. Supplying enough power is key. Some guys blame DCS for problems when their power is really lacking for what they're trying to run.

 Edit: R U running MTH HO scale too? I believe they have to be run on DC.

Thanks for your response and patience. I have been running O gauge for a number of years, what was great was you buy a new loco, put it on the track, add engine and off you go. Over the years I never had to do much more than that and had very few issues. I had two simple loops running  as many as six locos. O gauge only. I purchased a new Proto 3 G scale, new bachman brass track and was looking for the same level of simplicity. I think over the weekend I just kept going dizzy trying to think it up (I didn't have access to some resources I would have preferred) and some people were saying I had to set up as DC.

 

What I tried was taking off all connection to my O guage track, I wired to the G scale only using the z4000 and was hoping it would go over the same process, add engine, start up and off you go - this was from the fixed channel to the track. But it was simply dead, I was asking if you go through the same procedure for G as O to add a loco?

 

At one point I got the loco to take off hitting the direction button but I tried so many combinations of wiring I not sure which one got me to this point. I have one pair of 16 gauge wires going to a G scale loop of no more than 70' of track so maybe not enough juice?

 

So what I was trying to achieve was wiring for idiot response, take these two wires, stick them here - from here go to here. On remote do these steps...

 

I even added a track to the remote, which I don't think was necessary? But anyway that has been my dilemma. I found my one-gauge manual today and that is lunch time reading in case I missed something obvious.     

-     

RM,

   GGG is giving you good advise, you will probably need another transformer and it sounds like you need to do some reading in Barry's DCS O Gauge Companion book.

1st do some star wiring in blocks and use the 12 track discipline when building.

If you follow the correct layout building discipline you will not have power loss to your engines.  Barry has this all spelled out in his book.  

PCRR/Dave

 

Just one of the great features of the new PS3 MTH G scale engines, is there's no more polarity switch needed. So you don't need to worry about the engine seeing the signal on the correct rail anymore.

 To troubleshoot your G scale, just connect it to where your working O scale connection is, just for a test. One thing to remember, is the DCS signal works best when the simple loop of track is broken in one spot with an insulating connector so the signal doesn't double back on itself.

 To test stuff or add engines easier, I just use a short piece of straight track connected to the DCS system with everything else dis-connected. You'll see posts here where guys call this a "test track".

 

Quick question here, all comments appreciated and I will nail it this weekend somehow some way. How much amps should be displayed when you ramp up the volts? From memory when I turn the volts up 18 or more the amps displayed are usually a fraction 0.4 etc - should they display be showing single digits? If so, what could cause this?  

Monk, the amperage is a function of the voltage applied and the load (resistance, inductance, reverse emf of motors) of what is on the track, so there is no one answer to your question

If you have a lighted lock on and the TIU being powered you would see .3 to .4 amps.  G

Ok I am down at my remote location and checked my wiring I get signal to the track from my z-4000 on ac

 

 Nothing will activate the g scale loco. I tried all different combos and was ready to take the loco back. I wired from a car batt to the loco and it fired up, wheels ran. it won't power on the tracK. you can't run dc from the this transformer can you?  If it will run on ac what is the issue? I can't get any sign of life from the loco. I get a signal all  the waY to the track in ac. 

At the risk of driving everyone crazy and flogging a dead horse etc...My DC Commander came in today and tonight I fully expect to finally run my PS3 in DC mode. All previous posts have assured me that this G scale PS3 will run on AC from my z-4000 - I am convinced something must be wrong with the loco as I couldn't get any sign of life on AC. Unless there is some bit of information that I have completely missed, it's just not going to happen- if tonite it doesn't run on DC either then I'll have to send the loco in 

What G scale engines do you have?  Are they MTH engines??or something else?

It's a mth dash 8 p 3. Hooked up the dcs commander, powered by a z1000 brick, two wires to track. Hit dcs button, add engine and just get the error message. If I switch to conv and about 9 volts the loco will move,no sounds or light but moves. So I'm thinking something wrong with loco. I have an atlas model I can try but that's about it.