Yard question for Real Trax/Ross

It looks like you could use #100 and #101 for everything.

Just my thoughts.

Frank

The simplest way to decide how large of a space this will require is to mock up your "locomotive, 10 cars and caboose".  Be sure to use your largest engine.  In my case, I plan to only run GP-7 and GP-9 along with some SW...I have also limited myself to 40 ft boxcars and the occasional 50-52 ft flat or gondola...but for "train length" I figure 40 ft cars.

That above information will give you real world feet and inches INSIDE your switches on the main that serve the arrival and departure yard.  From there, everything else is pretty much "optional"...your yard tracks can be 3 cars or 20 cars depending on your space, but the A/D track, along with your "minimum loco-10 cars-caboose" and switches sets a "limit".

Track planning software will not give you the dimensions for that "limit", you have to figure out that distance and then include that yourself when designing the layout.

A rough estimate is around 12 inches for a 40 ft O gauge boxcar...just for extra clearance, figure the caboose at the same 12 inches and then measure your locomotive that will be your "work horse"...or the largest engine you anticipate buying...because you will be limiting future growth with whatever size you allow.

As for my own layout...I put the basic curves on the ends of the wall in place (O-72 takes basically 6 ft, 3 ft per "end" of the wall shelf) and then added a single section of 10 inch straight track (to ease coupling...I strongly dislike coupling and uncoupling on curves) and then placed my O-72 turnout in place...THAT is what set my layout's minimum and maximum pass track dimensions.  Basically, I can get around four, or perhaps five, 40 ft cars, plus caboose and locomotive in the clear on the main track between clearance for the pass track turnouts.  That is "about" 11 ft linear distance.

Thus my best guess for your "minimum" with a little "slop room" is "around 17 ft linear distance on straight track".  Remember, that is INSIDE the switches as if the train is "holding the main".  And remember, this is a "best guess".

Edit to add..........

Cost?

Count the switches, make rough estimates of the length of track.  Come up with a rough total of components. 

Find the switch you like and figure current market prices and multiply the cost by the number of switches then figure the amount of track and repeat the process...you will be close...kind of.  Add approximately 15% to 25% for a safety net.

Track planning software does not do "everything", most of it still boils down to the layout builder redesigning AFTER he figures all the above...and then applies real world constraints.  At least that is my experience thus far.

Ok thanks to everyone.

Looks like 15 switches. 100's and 101's should work well.

If the A/D track is going to be around 15 feet, the yard lead will have to wrap around the room of the next wall to pull the entire train to break it down.

I think to visit Ross Switches online and get the exact measurements of these switches and print them out.

On further thought, the yard supports Eastbound (Left to right) as a superior direction. If I need to assemble a west train I would do well to add a second A/D and a path direct to the engine area for it.

I am going to have to lay out a signal diagram and a tower to control this whole thing. That will probably push the total costs over 1000 and counting.

Regarding passenger, I will have to do some more evaluating, some of the equipment exceeds 2 actual feet in length. I might cheat and wye around the Drill Track so that the train can turn, back into a station, load and leave.

I am beginning to consider the ROSS 4 way yard set as a way of condensing the space necessary to get to 4 tracks from the yard drill.

On the PDF's when blown to full size the diagrams seem to show a savings in space, if not actual costs. Any advice on how I can configure a printer to make these full size switch pictures to be cut out and taped down on paper to assist planning?

Despite my druthers and givens, I am getting to where I think "Double ending" this yard rather than a stub might give me a benefit with a switcher to get to everything and maybe do better to "Build" a train in either direction.

Do I simply make this stub yard a mirror image thus creating a complete double ender? (Leaving out one set of caboose track and left end yard lead.)

There are several books on "how to operate your model railroad".  While most (all?) are targeting HO models, the track plans can work in O gauge.  Perhaps a little modification for the physical size to fit the real world of HO and O gauge...and perhaps a little alteration to reduce expensive redundant track. 

My experience is that most "how to" books or articles that discussprototype rail operations are basically, "in a perfect world" and not "in a real world where budget and real estate are critical issues."  Go look at the typical yard in the typical town...not the huge hump yards or classification flat switching yards, but the run of the mill, small division or small yard serving a moderate size town.  Those yards make do with 4 or 5 tracks where the super yards have 16-24 yards and would like another half dozen tracks.

Obviously, you would want to be more selective...oh, wait, "selective compression"...we do that a lot in model railroading.

Ultimately, the issue of what you include and what you exclude will depend on your individual preferences..."givens and druthers" along with your desire to replicate a specific yard, or a generic yard.

As for the 4 way switch...perhaps someone that has one laying around would be kind enough to take it down to a photo copier and make a copy of the switch in full size.  Or perhaps someone at Ross can explain how to use the pdf to make it "real world size".

Best I can do from here....

A Ross 4 way measures; 24.23" long with 3.5'' center to center on the two center tracks. The curve is 11* arc This is for Ross#170 -4 way. These numbers are off of the full size printouts.

Frank