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What kind of work are you wanting to do?

 

I've always been a bit air brush challenged, not in technique, but in terms of cleaning and caring for internal mix style brushes. I just use a crappy, cheap Badger external mix brush. It is great for just spraying paint, but you can't do fine work with it. It's "air brushing for dummies".

You are going to get a ton of opinions on this.  I airbrush almost every day and this is my .02

 

A good general workhorse is the Paasche VL series.  Learn how to use a dual action.  You will have more flexibility in the long run.

 

I also use an Iwatta HP C+ for finer work.  This is for later down the road.

 

Good luck!

 

Dave

30 years experience with airbrush's in both modeling and artwork brings me to one conclusion

Iwata

For the Big jobs---

The best gun I've ever used.... HP-BE2 (hint, most all the paint contractors in Korea use the BE-2 exclusively. Ideal atomization ratio for laying silky smooth finishes every time.)

For the intermediate HP-SB either fluid delivery

For micro CMC-Plus the best of the best I can draw with it.

I sprayed this with BE-2
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Last edited by Erik C Lindgren

I've had a Snap On made by Badger for a number of years. It's the same as the 155 Anthem. I put off buying one for years. The ease of buying off the Snap On truck only paying 20 a week finally I made a decision to buy. I actually wanted a single action brush starting out. After a little practice I got the hang of the double action. Primary interest was for weathering. I also have a Michaels down the street from me. They have a few parts at times in stock. At one time it fell off the stand and damaged the needle. A replacement was just down the street. Using the 40% coupon worked out great.

Paasche H (single action)...  I've had mine for 25+ years....nary a problem I couldn't blame myself for.

 

Although the set came with #1, 3, and 5 nozzle/needle combos, I use #3 for about 95% of my work.

 

We (LHS) sell a lot of the VL (dual action), but many of those customers are artists.  I'm not very good at the rub-your-belly-and-pat-your-head dexterity that dual action requires.  While far more versatile in application, a dual action brush has a steeper learning curve than a single action.  Also, PROPER cleaning of dual action brushes is more involved that for a single action.  And cleaning the brush is fundamental.

 

For examples of the kind of work SERIOUS airbrush artists do, check out a copy of Airbrush Action magazine.  If you've never seen a photo-quality airbrush portrait rendering, it can be an eye-popping, jaw-dropping revelation.  My hat's off to the artists who have mastered this tool/technique. 

 

As with any instrument/tool, though, it's all about practice, practice, practice.  And a tip we give our new a/b customers: Save your plastic microwave bowls...the ones that prepared meals come in at the grocery store.  They make excellent sacrificial practice pieces.  Besides, after you've given them a few psychedelic practice coats, you can use the bowls as parts pans on your workbench!

 

 

But, as for type and brand,  it's really TEHO.   You gits what youse pays fo' holds true, too.

 

FWIW, always....

 

KD

 

Last edited by dkdkrd

"I would like it for weathering mostly. I just finished reading a 101 on choosing the style.

I will probably get an internal mix, dual action. I'm still deciding on gravity or siphon fed."

 

   The best value is probably the widely used classic Paasche VL, a three tip set cost about $68 on Amazon. For weathering I prefer something like a Paasche VSR gravity feed  ( paint cup on top, about $85 at amazon)because it can feed with just a tiny bit of paint for those times I want to change colors frequently to get a multi hued layered finish. The VL is better for painting a whole car as it can use a bottle and feed direct from it. More important than the specific brush is learning to use whatever one you choose.....DaveB 

A few things in addition to the airbrush.

Bottles and adaptable tops to the brush

 

 Airbrush cleaner and some type of dilution solvent, most acrylics will use water but I found that commercial solvents were better. 

Airbrush water trap top in this picture also some type of Quick-attachment to the air hose system.  Note air nozzle and tire fill chuck.

 

Airbush attached to the compressor with a water trap to prevent moisture entering the brush from the compressor.

 

Note the mounting board to hold the water trap.

 

 

 

 

 

A slop bucket with some cat liter or oil dry, to start and clean the brush.

 

Good, open work area.

 

Fabricated airbrush holder. Piece of # 10 solid wire.

 

Brush and most used bottle.

 

Air compressor air gauges and regulator.  Most air brushes and paint equipment require relatively low pressure to operate well.  Adjust for what works best for you.

 

Another very good water trap.  Water traps and the compressor tank need regular maintenance to clean and drain collected water.

 

Attachment hose,  attaches the air brush or other air tools to the air compressor.

 

Cleaners and cleaning equipment.  Paper towels and Q-tips are important. You may find that pipe cleaners also help clean the air brush tubes.

 

Note the air brush thinner, center this picture.

 

MOST IMPORTANT.   A very good respirator. Even using acrylics a respirator is required.

Supply paint and you should be ready to go. Read all the instruction on the paint bottles, cleaner, thinner, etc. Safety meeting of the day. Best wishes Mike CT.

Last edited by Mike CT

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