Your opinion on Ross 3 way yard switch

The three way works well, but the problem is motorizing it since the point movement logic is a little tricky. The points are either both to the left for the right track, both to the right for the left track, or one right/one left for the center. You have to use two motors wired in such a way that they don't fight each other. I figured it out on paper with a pair of tortoise motors, two spdt relays and a center off spdt switch. I'm building the test bed right now for the one at the approach to the engine facility on the club layout. I'll scan the schematic and post it later.

Matt nailed it with this one sentence. We had two of these on the club modular layout. Of 12 guys, 4 could actually make it work. One just gave up on using the yard to set-up / take off trains and insisted on fouling the mainline as he handled his trains. 

 

We just built another new yard for the club. Putnam Division posted pictures of the new switch configuration on Weekend Photo Fun.

 

I really like Ross, but this has to be my least-favorite offering. For my home layout, I'm using the Ross 4 way in the Yard.  Just my $0.02

 

Gilly

I used a Ross 3-way switch on my inside mainline to save space on my 6 X 15 layout.  One leg connects to a # 4 switch coming off the outer mainline; the second leg goes to the three stub yard in my missile rail car base.  

 

 

Both switch motors are connected and work fine.  I found this switch needs to be operated in a "by the numbers" mode, namely, line it for the left leg, the straight leg or the right leg, allowing the points to line up properly.  You're not going to be able to "slam" in one motion from one leg to the other as you could with a # 4 that just has one straight and one diverging leg. 

 

I have not had a single derailment with this 3-way switch.  (In fact, the only derailment I've had since installing the track 6 years ago is on a # 4 switch behind the chapel in the photo above.  A shoe on a truck climbed over the inner rail at the switch and split the points enough that the errant truck went on the diverging route and the first truck went straight.)

I have 3 of the Ross 3-way switches on my layout.

 

All three are motorized with DZ1000 motors and are also wired for automatic non-derailing operation. The non-derailing wiring is easy to do, although a bit of work as you must allow for a pair of control rails for each of the 3 legs of the switch.

 

I don't have a wiring diagram handy for the non-derailing operation, however, below is a motor wiring diagram, from the Ross web site, for using DZ1000 motors.

 

 

Jim, it seems the general consensus is the switch itself works just fine. Since you'll be using ground throws, it will take a little practice to learn the combinations of the two throws. Of the four possibilities, only 3 are valid.

My drawing didn't scan well, so I re-did it with RR-Track. Basically, when the toggle is in center-off, the machines swing outward which pulls the points to the extreme right/left for the center track as I recall (if I have it backward, you just reverse the wires on the machines). I'd advise using the tortoise screw-terminal connectors available at Litcfield Station: 

 

http://www.litchfieldstation.com/xcart/product.php?productid=999003530&cat=257&page=1

 

 

 

Slideshow of the installation of (2) Ross 3 ways.   This cross over configuration required (paired) DZ 1000 switch motors.  The DZ 1000s are activated by (2) sets of DZ 1002 push buttons and a Lionel SC-2 controller.  There are (6) switch moves controlled by the SC-2 shown.  (4) for the (2) three ways and combination switches, and  (2) switches that "Y" to the Turntable.  I tried to (interlock) the two DZ 1000 switch motors use on the three way with no success.  Both switch motors have to be in the green light position before either can be switched to red. 

 

Only criticism of the three way is that it is a #4 switch and tight.   As pictured it is matched with #5 switches that we, (Fort Pitt High Railers), had.  Electrically it is sound. I did attempt power routing via a DZ 1008 relay with some success.

 

Each DZ 1000 motor has to be wired per color coded diagram, even as pairs.  The green and red diodes were moved per instructions. So the multiple push button displays are a bit off if you are into exact organize detail.

 

 

I hate to be negative, but I know that in previous post on this subject, some folks (including me) have had problems backing cars through the 3-way.  In my case, my die-cast K-line coal hoppers just would not back through the turnout correctly without derailing.  I ended up pulling out the 3-way and putting in 2 regular switches. 

 

To Ross's credit, Steve did offer to work with me on getting the 3-way to work, but I had already gotten rid of it.

 

I have been very happy with my other 20 Ross switches on my layout!

 

Jim

Yes, even with the 4 1/4" track spacing pictured and coupled with #5 switches, backing a train through these 3 ways is difficult at best.

I can't speak for the 3-way switch, but I have been successfully using two 4-ways (and DZ-1000 motors) at opposite ends of a 15' classification yard for years with no problems.  If you could find a little extra space on your layout, it would be something to consider going with the 4-way.

 

          paul m.

I've four of the three-ways.

 

They don't throw well and need to be exercised on a daily basis to work well.

 

They are space-savers.  Haven't had problems with derailing.

 

Remembering to throw them to center before throwing right or left is the hard part for me ...

Operationally, we haven't had any problems with the 3-way turnouts. We have one on the approach to a car float and the other on the approach to the engine facility. Even the scale-wheeled equipment goes through them smoothly. The schematic is a way to eliminate the point-conflict problem that can arise from using switch motors. By the way, controlling the Z-stuff motors using the new Atlas controllers gives you a visual of how the points are thrown which will reduce conflicts (provided the operator is paying attention).

 

The 4-way is simple because it's essentially a +/- 11-degree wye with two 11-degree regular turnouts up-line so there's no point conflict involved in throwing them.

My PRR 3rd RAIL decapods have a big problem backing thru ROSS #4 switches and eight driver steam engines have an occasional problem with them also.

Kerrigan,

Remembering to throw them to center before throwing right or left is the hard part for me ...

I use a pair of DZ1000 motors and a pair of DZ1002 pushbuttons to operate my 3-ways. They mount on the control panel as follows:

• They are next to each other the long way with the buttons up and down
• The left button has the red LED on top and the green LED on the bottom
• The DZ1002 next to it has the green LED on top and the red LED on the bottom
• I offset the left DZ1002 higher from the other DZ1002 so that the green LEDs are lined up
• To go straight, I press the two buttons to light the green LEDs; to go left I press the buttons to light the left red LED and right green LED; and to go right I press the the buttons to light the left green LED and the right red LED.

This allows visual confirmation of the 3-way's orientation.

I see some of you have used controllers for the non derailing feature.  Has anybody wired one of these for the non derailing feature using grounds or relays with DZ1000s?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

 

Dave,

Has anybody wired one of these for the non derailing feature using grounds or relays with DZ1000s?

I've done it both ways. Using common rails is less work and a lot less expensive.

 

 

Thank s for your replies

 

I have a forum member offering me one at a good price but it that doesn't go though I think I will purchase 2 #4 switches instead.  It woud save me around 45 bucks and be easier to use.  I would loose the ability to store 1 50' box car by going that route but I think the ease of use would be worth it.  

 

 

Barry,

 

Would you care to share how you did it?  Just using a break in one outside rail for each of the three tracks does not work.  Eventually you will have all grounds tied together for all three positions because each position requires a ground tie to both machines.  I must be missing something

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

 

Dave,

Just using a break in one outside rail for each of the three tracks does not work.

That's correct - you need 2 breaks in each outside rail, one break for each switch motor. Make sure to have the control rail for the motor for the pair of frogs nearest the siding throw first.

Barry, have you had any problems backing through the switch?

Be careful when you install the ground throws. I have one on the four way ross and a low Atlas double stack catches on it in one direction. Needs a longer wire, to move farther away.

Robert,

have you had any problems backing through the switch?

No, I haven't.

 

In fact, all 3 of my 3-way's are at the mouths of 3-5 track yard sidings. Each siding contains a fully made up train. I regularly run these trains out through the switches onto the main lines and then I back them in when I'm done running them.

Thanks, Barry.