No, an increase in resistance there at the light would actually allow more current to be drawn across the breaker.
It's a small amount though. Basically what the bulb can carry without much heat buildup.
Even dead cold, I raise an eyebrow at over 15 seconds shorted without a trip. I think the round breakers even had an adjustment. I set my 1033s for 4-6 seconds. And my kw is 8, a Z 12 seconds. About a second per amp lol.
The idea is that it's easier for current to pass through the breaker than through the bulb enough to light it, the bulb is flowing a tiny bit of power when not lit, too large a bulb passes more. They are parallel so when the breaker drops out, the current then tries to flow more across the bulb. Too large a bulb can flow a decent current, so I like the idea of resistance being there forcing a low volt bulb. But with a good matching of parts, the new way is OK, definitely cheaper to make, and you only need one bulb type. The bulb won't light till the breaker drops out or is disconnected.