072 Ross turnout with gar graves?

I have a couple in some of my switche sets....   I would think you could cut a piece to fit as well... 

Take a Dremel cutoff wheel and cut it to the desired length.  Save the leftovers, I've found places where my "plan" didn't quite go in like I drew it and had to add a short section.

Hi John,

As the others have indicated, you need to cut a custom piece.  Once you select a track system designed to work with flex track (Ross/Gargraves, Atlas, ScaleTrax) it's time to invest in a Dremel tool and get comfortable with the idea of cutting track.  Even if you plan to only use pre-bent curves, you need to leave behind the mentality that manufactured curves and fitter pieces are your only options.  Cutting that first piece can be a very liberating experience.

Or if you do not want to cut track, you could purchase three sections of Ross 072 curve track to finish out 1/4 circle.

Good to see you are working on your layout!

Happy railroading,

Don

John,

As others have stated your going to find certain places where you'll need a custom piece. I use the dremel with a large fiber cutting wheel. With GG track just slide the ties back a little so they're out of your way. Establish your cut line and get out your SAFETY GLASSES (Did I say that loud enough?) You can then cut each rail individually.
go slow so it doesn't grab.

Personally I find it impossible to get a perfect vertical cut so I mark my track with a fine line marker and make my cut about a 1/16th ahead of the mark and use this to sand the rest of the way to the cut line. It'll make a perfect factory edge every time.
It'll also be a useful tool when you start scratch building.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1...on-sander-34951.html

I use the sanding disc on the side for this with a 60 grit disc. Sparks will fly but don't worry it won't hurt a thing but your ends will be perfectly even and perfect vertically.

Might want to update your e mail . I tried to e mail you but I don't need my teeth cleaned

David

Hi John, I also use Ross and GarGraves.  I also use sectional curves since do NOT like messing with flex.  And I combine different sectional curve diameters to produce an easement effect.  So cutting special lengths/arks of GarGraves is SOP.

My suggestion in this case is to cut a 7 1/2-degree ark of O72 thus giving you a 30-degree section to match up with the others.

Now as a confirmed "left-brain" and edu as an ME there is a caveat.  GarGraves O72 and Ross O72 (and/or any other diameters) are slightly different.  Now the diameters are so close it really does NOT matter much except to some like me.  So what I also do is use a Ross sectional section mirror imaged diametrically opposed to where a Ross switch is used.  BUT again the difference is most probably actually within their respective manufacturing tolerances.  It just is in my case I build my "tables" as sensationalized sections so they can be more easily moved thus looking for that left-brain precision.

Ron

I remember this type of thing when I was building my layout.  Back in 2004-5-6-7 you had the additional option of Curtis track (out of business now for about 5 years).  Curtis HiRail featured 12 pieces to the circle for O54 and above and their switches were identical to the curved section. 

If you can find some old Curtis curves and a switch (compatible with Ross and GarGraves), you're in business.  If not, you'll need to cut a custom piece of GarGraves.  I agree with Dave Hikel - it's not that big a deal.  Try it!

George