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Originally Posted by RickM46:

Jeff and LOS,

BUT here is the conundrum:

Is it a bad smoke unit or burnt batting from starvation??

I have a new Berkshire Pere Marquette and new Lionchief+ B&O and both were sent back to Lionel for failing smoke units.

On the Berk, Lionel indicated that I had flooded the unit.

On the B&O, Lionel indicated that it was a defective unit.

Surprisingly, my Big Boy and Polar Express Berk Jr. are OK.

This is the **** if you do and ****ed if you don't department.

Under these situations, I think you are better off being able to take apart your loco and service it yourself.

Until the engineering of the units is better, this is Lionel.

 

That's exactly why I open mine up to find out. I can't afford to ship these things back and forth to Lionel from CA every time there is an issue with the smoke unit. Under warranty or not, shipping is a big risk for more damage going that far. Like anything else, once I can see how it works, and how much fluid it will hold, now I know for the rest of them. Saves me a lot of frustration down the road.

 

Years ago, I was petrified to open these things up....not any more. It's not that difficult, and there's really not a lot to them. Looks intimidating because of all the wires crammed in there. I run my engines, and I run the crap out of them, so every time they need some work, I have to ship it....no thanks.

 

Originally Posted by bigdodgetrain:

lionel made removable magnet covers for the switches to set smoke on or off yet they can not or will not make a removable magnet cover for smoke units.

Cuz they don't want us messin with them They want us to follow the instructions in the manual  at least until the warranty period has come and gone

Last edited by Former Member

Thank you so much for the videos! I really enjoyed them. Confirmed my suspicion that I was not using enough smoke fluid. When I had an MTH unit apart, I put the suggested 20 drops into the empty resevior and it still looked almost empty. That was without any wicking in place. Since watching your videos, I think I'm going to prime the units with more fluid. Also, I typically wait to refill until the smoke has significantly decreased. From now on I'm going to try to refill more frequently in an attempt to keep the wicks from burning out. 

 

Ed Kazarian

Originally Posted by Jeff B. Haertlein:
Wow! Great to hear you have one. I am scared stiff to take my engine apart, or any of these new engines. Perhaps sometime you can go over taking an S-3 apart. Currently I have two of them, and one is in again for smoke repairs. I am getting frustrated sending it to  Lionel as I always worry about shipping it back and forth. This time it is at a more local dealer, but it has been over 7 weeks and they haven't even been able to look at it yet. I feel I need to learn how to tear into these engines. I also have a DM&IR 2-8-2 in for the same smoke problems.. Thanks for all your videos, I will be looking at your second smoke related video later tonight.
 
Jeff
 
 
Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:
I have the S3 as well, and have had trouble with it. Same reason, I thought I over filled it, but it didn't have enough fluid and the pre cut batting burnt.

 

OK Jeff, this one is for you.

 

I opened up my S3 because the smoke volume was dismal, even with 60 drops of fluid the other day. So I wanted to replace the batting, and also turn off the red light on the boiler. So here's what I found:

 

20150407_115646

 

Badly burnt resistor and batting. Dry and crusty in there. I bought it used from Alex about a year and a half ago, and it smoked great when I got it, but then it really died off. I thought I over filled it, so I ran it for awhile trying to burn off the excess fluid. Well, once again, I burnt it up because the batting was dry. Once it's burnt like that, even 60 drops of fluid won't bring it back to life. It smoked, but.....ehhh

  

20150407_115957

 

It was so crusty from being burnt, it just flaked apart into dust in some spots when I pried it out with the needle nose.

 

20150407_120359

 

Cleaned the resistors the best I could, I don't want to break the wires. New batting.

 

20150407_120830

 

I pre-soaked the new batting using the pipette that Lionel provides with the engines now. 6ml went in total. Now even the steam chest puts out a ridiculous amount of smoke

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Last edited by Former Member
Hi Doug:
 
Thanks so much for the photos of the S-3 smoke unit! It is interesting to see how it is set up, but I know I am not catching all the working details, but this really helps. Is the tube the carrier for the smoke to the cylinders? When you said you cleaned the resistors, what were you able to do without harming the wires? Did you use a liquid to clean? Did you use a cotton swab or a soft type of brush? Now for the other big question, how does one take the shell off, and in what order? Getting all this info I feel confident I can work on one of mine the next time, and then order the parts to fix it. Thanks again, I do appreciate your time, and as usual, the Forum is a great tool to have at our disposal!!
 
Jeff
 
Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:
Originally Posted by Jeff B. Haertlein:
Wow! Great to hear you have one. I am scared stiff to take my engine apart, or any of these new engines. Perhaps sometime you can go over taking an S-3 apart. Currently I have two of them, and one is in again for smoke repairs. I am getting frustrated sending it to  Lionel as I always worry about shipping it back and forth. This time it is at a more local dealer, but it has been over 7 weeks and they haven't even been able to look at it yet. I feel I need to learn how to tear into these engines. I also have a DM&IR 2-8-2 in for the same smoke problems.. Thanks for all your videos, I will be looking at your second smoke related video later tonight.
 
Jeff
 
 
Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:
I have the S3 as well, and have had trouble with it. Same reason, I thought I over filled it, but it didn't have enough fluid and the pre cut batting burnt.

 

OK Jeff, this one is for you.

 

I opened up my S3 because the smoke volume was dismal, even with 60 drops of fluid the other day. So I wanted to replace the batting, and also turn off the red light on the boiler. So here's what I found:

 

20150407_115646

 

Badly burnt resistor and batting. Dry and crusty in there. I bought it used from Alex about a year and a half ago, and it smoked great when I got it, but then it really died off. I thought I over filled it, so I ran it for awhile trying to burn off the excess fluid. Well, once again, I burnt it up because the batting was dry. Once it's burnt like that, even 60 drops of fluid won't bring it back to life. It smoked, but.....ehhh

  

20150407_115957

 

It was so crusty from being burnt, it just flaked apart into dust in some spots when I pried it out with the needle nose.

 

20150407_120359

 

Cleaned the resistors the best I could, I don't want to break the wires. New batting.

 

20150407_120830

 

I pre-soaked the new batting using the pipette that Lionel provides with the engines now. 6ml went in total. Now even the steam chest puts out a ridiculous amount of smoke

 

Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:
 

  

20150407_115957

 

It was so crusty from being burnt, it just flaked apart into dust in some spots when I pried it out with the needle nose.

 

20150407_120359

Those photos speak volumes.  

 

I'm sure I have a few just like this. I've drawn my own conclusion from all this information on what I'll do with my locomotives.  Thank you for your effort. 

 

BTW, thanks for the RH info, and sorry I haven't sent a reply.  Something happens every time I sit down...

I'd like to chime in late on this topic. I think laidoffsick has an excellent point. I recived one of Lionels heavy mikados with whistle steam when they were delivered a couple of months ago.

 

I presume it has the same ( or close to it) dual smoke unit as the cab forward. I added the intial 20 drops ran it a lap and smoke faded smoke faded. 

 

To make a long story short I probably added 10 drops to it every week with only a breif running here and there. I couldn't guess how much, I'm at least to 40 or 50 drops over several weeks and the loco will now run longer with steady constant smoke from the stack and whistle.

 

I've also noticed less of a "burning smell" , not sure if these units are primed with Lionel fuid from the factory causing this odor.

 

It seems a rough guesstimate of adequate fluid is indicated by a mor noticible scent of vanilla JT's that I've been adding.

 

I think folks flooding fan motors are adding too much at once, and not allowing the fluid to get absorbed into the wicking.

 

IMO much like a new sponge the wicking doesn't readily absorb the fluid which will pool on top of the unit and flow into the fan.

 

10 drops at a time with an overnight period to absorb and some brief smoke unit operation to prime the wicking seems to work.

 

My next whistle steam locomotive will get 20 and subsequent 10 drop addings over an extended period before the unit gets turned on for the first time.

This is a great thread on these smoke units. 

 

I have been using JTs Mega Steams new Eliminator, cleansing smoke units and it seems to be doing just great for me.  I have been using this in my VLBB.   I use about 10-15 drops in the stack and another 10 in each of the other smoke units.  Gives off a nice non scented smoke and it seems to show a nice plume of smoke.  Also I am running this at either low smoke to medium smoke output.   Anyone else having the same success as I am?

After a year and a half since I used my Cab Forward to do the smoke fluid videos, it was time for a tune-up. Keep in mind this is one of my favorite engines, and by far the best smoker I have, so it has many hours on it now. It had be sitting in a garden track for months when I decided to run it the other day. I powered it up, and got a loud screeching sound from the smoke unit and then the 3 cab light blinks of death.

Opened her up and found the rope wick on the whistle steam side pretty much charred and a hard crusty glob. Not only that, the fan itself is now discolored to a tan color instead of white/light grey like the other one. Obviously that sucker gets very very hot on HIGH smoke and max EFX. I pulled the blades off (they come off very easily with some needle nose) put a drop on oil on each motor shaft, put the blades back in on opposite sides, and new rope wick.

Noise free, no cab blinks, and still my best smoker.

20161013_14185820161013_142745

 

  

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Last edited by Laidoffsick

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