265E gear

There is not much play in the area where the gear teath mesh. If the teath on the gear are worn, the gear bearing is worn, the pivid post is worn or loose, or there is dirt in the gear teath this can cause the problem you suggest. Run the engine and when it jams check the gear teath for teath that are resting on top of other teath or for dirt in the valley. Fix the problem as necessary.

Al

I have also seen the problem described by the OP caused by a loose axle.  It causes the gears to get out of alignment at unpredictable intervals.

The gears should be all flat. They should be all steel except the back of the wheels.  You might check and see

1) if the wheels are running true (there may be a swirly making on the back fact of the wheel), or

2) if there is a chipped gear tooth on the back of the geared wheels, or

3) if the axle bushings are worn out and really floppy

any of the three can cause what you describe

i found out that the wheels were not 1/4erd. so i fixed that now it sticks a little could it be that it needs grease  etc??

I posted this before. If none of the gears are missing any teeth and there is no gunked up grease buildup, then you need to ensure that you have late PRE WAR compound reduction gears or they will bind. These should be black with holes in them to assist with oiling. They look like the post war compound reduction gears as found on the 226E-26 motors used in many better post war O gauge motors. They are NOT the same. Pre - York I was working on a motor from a 265E and discovered this issue. I looked long and hard at York for the correct gears eventually having to buy a trashed motor carcass in the Red hall for $5 to get them. Reproduction gears will NOT work.You can tell the difference by looking at the gears. If the teeth tips are poiinted they are post war gears, if the teeth tips are blunt they are the correct late pre war gears.

Gandy

See my post in your brush plate thread. I've posted a photo of the correct gears you should have.

Gandy

thanks so much gandy