Hello, I'm helping a friend with his 3rd Rail 2-10-4 Selkirk that refuses to move. It was fine after I oiled and greased it, and ran well both on convential at his house, and on TMCC at the club. After he brought it home, it refuses to move when power is applied conventionally to the track. The lights and sounds work, except the tender headlight doesn't come on when you would expect it to be in reverse. I took it apart and spun the motor by hand and it seems fine there, so it must be electrical. Any pointers where to start? Thanks
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Disconnect the motor leads, then test the can motor with a DC power source, or a bridge rectifier. If it runs, follow the path of the motor leads to whatever driver that thing has, testing for continuity…..if ok, check boards are seated well, and all connections are sound, suspect driver, or radio board if all wiring & motor test true.
Pat
If the motor checks okay, then it could be a disconnect on one of the motor wires in the tether.
The backup light on the tender works directly from the TMCC boards in the tender. Are you sure the light wasn't turned off by someone inadvertently pressing the AUX2 button? That button toggles the lights on and off, and the light status survives powering down.
Sorry it's been a while, couldn't I just set a multimeter to dc volts, then rest the probes against the motor leads to see if power is flowing to the motor before I start unsoldering stuff?
@mattp.426 posted:Sorry it's been a while, couldn't I just set a multimeter to dc volts, then rest the probes against the motor leads to see if power is flowing to the motor before I start unsoldering stuff?
You sure can
Pat
Ok, so I'm confused when I was trying to see which pins on the plug were for the motor leads. If looking at the rear of the engine when it is upright, the pins in the second column from the left both have continuity to both motor leads. That doesn't seem right to me, but I'm pretty new to the world of TMCC stuff. Here's a crudely drawn diagram of what I'm seeing. The transformer (GW-180) isn't showing any sign of a short.
Attachments
Well, sure, there’s gonna be continuity between the two motor leads. The leads touch the brushes, the brushes touch the commutator, the commutator is copper, so the brushes will have continuity between them. Since you’ve identified the pins, follow the path back through the tether to wherever they terminate on the board.
Pat
Ok, the wires switch to orange and yellow, which I followed to the plug labelled "motor" on the large circuit board. I tested each wire and they both have continuity back to the loco tether. What's the next step? Haven't tested the motor yet
Post up a picture of the electronics in the tender, …..let’s see what you’re working with, and yes, if you can test the motor ITSELF with a DC power source, that would definitely rule it out of the equation,…..
Pat
Motor works when connected to DC, I can't reconnect it until I buy some smaller shrink tubing tomorrow. Must be wiring or a board in the tender.
@harmonyards posted:Post up a picture of the electronics in the tender, …..let’s see what you’re working with, and yes, if you can test the motor ITSELF with a DC power source, that would definitely rule it out of the equation,…..
Pat
Another update, soldered the motor wires back together and tested again, and it started to run very erratically, like a postwar E-unit with a bad ground. Any other ideas before I throw in the towel and send it off to be repaired?
@mattp.426 posted:Another update, soldered the motor wires back together and tested again, and it started to run very erratically, like a postwar E-unit with a bad ground. Any other ideas before I throw in the towel and send it off to be repaired?
If you’re getting erratic operation, you need to check all the wiring for what looks like the cruise sensor somewhere around the flywheel. Without being able to see all that you have, this looks like a TAS EOB set up. There are no parts available for these systems, unless someone on the forum has a working set up they can sell you. So if all your wiring is intact, the more than likely cause of the failure is a failed EOB board, or failed EOB cruise sensor. You’re really gonna be stuck replacing the entire system with ERR products, unless you can pig & a poke find parts ……Even trying to salvage the stock RS system in that engine isn’t going to be simple, as a lot of the components that Lionel used to stock, have simply disappeared from the face of the earth. Your easiest solution IF the EOB components are indeed dead, is going to be an ERR Cruise Commander, & ERR Railsounds set. You’ll still have to deal with chuff, unless this engine has a cam and chuff switch. Lastly, you should be able to integrate the TAS smoke unit ( if so equipped ) into the ERR system…….
Pat
if you have no experience working on these my advise is don’t. Best to send it to one of the many experts here on the forum. With that said. I still have several engines with EOB and your issue could be a dozen things. From fried traces where track power connect to the board to a fried tac sensor if it lost ground. Royz trains had spare boards, last time I checked which was years ago. Otherwise you may be screwed fixing it. Best bet is to install ERR as Pat mentioned, only issue is it won’t be cheap and you will be limited in sound choices. You may need gunrunners add on boards, chuff generator, and super chuffer.
Thanks everyone, I'll likely be sending it to a repair place, who already is working on my friend's Lionmaster Challenger. Really too bad no one reversed engineered these boards to make an improved replacement without these issues.