Skip to main content

 

  I have a dilemma, I have a Lionel Scale Dreyfuss Hudson that I purchased as new old stock from a dealer last year. The engine was never run and it looked like I removed it from its box and plastic protection for the first time.

The first time I put it on the track. (MTH Real Trax, 072 MTH switches, Z4000, isolated switched blocks, and Conventional operation). I raised the voltage to 10 volts and the Loco launched itself at break neck speed down the track. I tested the ten-volt speed through timed over distance methods to be about 40-scale mph and that’s the slowest it will run . (Note the engine was running light/no carsbut runs about the same speed with 5 or 6 cars in tow). It would not start below this voltage. The top speed observed via the same test method was about 130mph at 18 volts. The top speed seems normal to me.

I presented the issue to the forum and the consensus was that it might have a timing ring failure. This phenomenon was seen in other Lionel locomotives of that era.  This turned out to NOT be the case with this loco. At the time all the normal maintenance and gear box cleaning/lubing procedures where carried out and also checking for any binding or out of square wheel/linkage issues. Nothing was found to be wrong or unusual with the engine.

The engine was then run for several hours at varying speeds/ voltages, directions and with different amounts of cars to give it a good break in. This netted a lower starting voltage of 9.5 volts but the same speed to voltage ratio. I then contacted E.R.R. as the forum members suggested and talked to the tech person and on his advise purchase a Cruise Commander M board for the loco as per his specifications. He also said the ERR modification would/does eliminate the use of the timing ring.

 (NOTE this is not an ERR bashing post)

 The Tech rep and ERR personnel where /are superb and very, very helpful. They helped me install the board and at one point talked me through the serial port wire install.

After installation the engine was tested in the same manner. The findings where that the engine didn’t start moving until the 15 volt level was achieved. The engine crawled along at what I believe to be a tested 3 MPH scale speed. The difference in the engine was unbelievable, smooth and steady, with no lurch and it would crawl very nicely. I then tested it at varying voltages and found it to run extremely slow in all voltages up to 18 volts. With a top speed of only 47mph at the 18v limit specified by ERR. ERR was contacted and further installation verification and diagnostics where performed. Every thing was in order and rechecked a half dozen more times. They suggested I send the engine and or board back to them and they would repair/replace what ever was necessary to fix/diagnose the engine.

I chose not to do so at that time because it was Christmas time and this engine was a gift for one of my boys. Move a head one year later to this year and the engine still runs slow and it has the same original lurch issues when the Lionel factory board is reinstalled again. The engine is a nice example of a Hudson but it has been a shelf queen for the most part of the year because of these issues.  In original configuration if the engine is started on a curve it will string line a set of cars and in ERR configuration it can’t get out of its own way. For my boy it is a no win situation.

 

 

 

Since last year my boys have run the engine up to the max output voltage of the Z4000 to get some speed out of the engine. That’s about 4 volts higher than specified. (9 and 11 year old boys go figure). This over voltage has nuked the sound system and degraded its quality; it also has blown out some of the lighting on the engine.

My reason for the long story and long post is I want to change over /repair this engine for him so he can operate it like it was supposed to run.

 I felt the background was needed to help with my options and dilemma.

 

Should/I have somebody gut and start all over with a new ERR system and sound system?

 

 Should I see if a PS-2 or PS-3 system is available and can be adapted and installed in the engine?

 

Can the engine be set up to have a conventional E unit but with out all the electronics so it doesn’t lurch on start up?

 

My son prefers MTH PS-2, PS-3 Locomotive operating characteristics (speed control, 4 chuffs per revolution) to the Lionel Odyssey system in their Lionel engines. This is a big factor to him in the decision process also.

 

Cost could also be a factor in the rebuild decision.

 

What say yee? Your expertise, opinions, experiences and advice would be much appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Last edited by bluecometk
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I have that loco, love it, excellent model and sound (but 2 chuffs, alas).

I run only TMCC Command Control; the loco is an excellent performer at any speed.

Having said that, some earlier Odyssey locos did not run well at all in Conventional.

(PS2 did run well in Conventional.) I haven't run mine that way ever, so I don't know.

 

If your kids prefer MTH systems, that would be the way to go at this point. Of course, the engine could certainly be "set up" to have a simple reversing unit; it is just a DC motor and some gears, after all. 

 

I don't know what was wrong with your loco originally - it probably needed attention from a Lionel Service Center.

 

Try Bill at Modern Toy Train Parts (website) - he sells and/or installs ERR equipment.

 

You would love it in Command with a Cruise Commander and Railsounds... 

Last edited by D500

I looked at the engine on Lionel's web site.  The magnet ring is only $3 and the sensor is $12 so I would see about a repair first.  IS the magnet ring on the flywheel cracked?  Could be a bad sensor.

 

This could be converted to PS-2 because it uses the Pittman motor and has a flywheel.  Your call on what you want to do.  You would get better smoke with a MTH conversion. 

 

I think the ERR repair may be something first, but it you prefer PS-2 conversion I do those.  I can be contacted via profile e-mail.  G

G, I think he has already replace the Odyssey board with a Cruise M so the magnet is eliminated. A broken magnet should not have made a difference when running conventional in any event. 

At this point, I would suggest disconnecting the 4 pin black plug from the Cruise M board. This will disconnect the motor from the electronics. If you have a 12 volt DC power pack try connecting it directly to the motor terminals and see at what DC voltage the motor begins to turn and how it runs.

 

Pete

Thank you gents for the insight on the engine. On this particular ERR Commander M installation the speed sensing harness is disconnected from the motor all together. As a note the Oddssy speed control did work as per the directions when set by the instructions in the operators manual. Even when engaged the loco still started with a jerk and took off.

 

I will not be able to power the motor up with DC for a few days at the minimum.

 

What will this DC motor test tell me?

 

I understand that the commander M lowers the output voltage/ speed to the motor so it can have some headroom for grades and different consist loads while maintaining constant speed.

It seems to me that the Commander board may not be calibrated for this engine/ application as to give it a reasonable high end operating speed.

 

Could there be a Command to recalibrate or something of that nature hidden in a trainmaster command procedure? ERR tech said no they did not believe so.

 

At this point the engine needs a soundboard, light bulbs and maybe a speaker.

So I think it’s looking more like a PS-2 system. That is unless somebody on the board  like you guys has a stroke of genius and says connect this to that and walla its  fixed.

 

 Thank you all again for your help.

If you are able to support the engine with the drive wheels in the air and then apply a varying DC voltage directly to motor it should be apparent if there is a problem with the motor or drivetrain. It should accellerate smoothly starting at 1 or 2 volts max.

If it still will not run until 4 or more volts are applied there is a problem. 

Have you tried turning the flywheel by hand and felt for binding? Its not uncommon for the valve gear eccentric crank to come loose then tightened in the wrong position. This will cause a bind or even bend the valve gear. Maybe one or more of the motor poles has opened up?? If you have bad motor or drivetrain, PS2 isn't going to fix it.

 

Pete

Originally Posted by Norton:

Unlike DCS, none of the Lionel cruise systems have any effect in conventional.  Given the problem persists even after replacing the motor driver board its beginning to sound like a problem with the motor or drivetrain. 

 

Pete

Pete are you sure, I thought part of the problem with ODY 1 was poor operation in conventional requiring it to be turned off.   G

 

Pete, This is from the Instruction manual for his model.  Transformer control of speed Control:

 

Y

ou can lock your locomotive into speed

control mode (ideal for low speed operation)

so it will automatically compensate for

grades and heavy loads, always maintaining

a specific speed setting.

 

To turn on the

speed control,

get your locomotive moving

at the desired speed,

 

in forward or

reverse

. Let it run at the desired speed for at

least 5 seconds. Press and hold the

horn/whistle button on your transformer for

2-3 seconds as you increase the throttle by at

least 3 volts. Your locomotive will accelerate

briefly and will then return to your set speed.

You can then release the horn/whistle button.

As long as the throttle position is maintained

at a higher setting than the initial

level, your locomotive will maintain a constant

speed. If the throttle is turned below the

original level, your locomotive will slow

down as the voltage decreases below the “set”

level. To check if the speed control setting

has been “accepted,” turn up the throttle.

You will see the lights brighten, but the speed

will remain constant. For best results, adjust

the track voltage about 3-4 volts above the

“set” point. This will provide enough spare

voltage to compensate for uphill grades, etc.,

but will prevent excessive voltage to the

lamps and smoke unit. (In conventional

mode, these features operate at track voltage,

and excessive voltage may lead to premature

bulb burn-out.)

• If you wish to change the speed control

setting, you must deactivate the speed

control, then reactivate at the new

setting.

To turn speed control off,

get your

locomotive into neutral for at least 5 seconds,

then increase the track voltage to full power

with the throttle on your transformer. This

will give you more “room” to lower the voltage.

Press the horn/whistle button on your

transformer for 2-3 seconds while lowering the

throttle voltage to 1/4 of full power, or at least

three volts. The speed control deactivates

when it sees a 3 volt change with the

horn/whistle button pressed, regardless of

initial voltage level. Do not turn the throttle

off, or speed control may not deactivate.

Note!

Speed control settings are retained in memory even if power is turned off.

They will remain present until deactivated.

Last edited by GGG

Ok Boxcar Bill. Can you be more specific? I found a 20-pin chip next to the ten-pin connector on the M board. Can’t find anything like the examples you gave me.         

The Chip on the other hand has on the top

PIC16F88

-1/SS

1143PR3

Can you give me a more specific location on the board so I can pinpoint the info you are looking for?

It took 3 magnifying glasses and my sons 12-year-old eyes to see the info I got.

 

Last edited by bluecometk
Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×