Skip to main content

I took my last layout down in 2019 when we moved to our "forever home".  That layout was wired using the "star wiring" approach, MTH terminal block and a Z-4000 transformer.  DCS worked very well with a constant "10" signal on all of the track sections.  I'm in the process now of building the "new layout" in our "forever home" and expect to start the wiring task next month.

Since I wired that last layout in 2006, I'm a bit rusty on a few DCS-related wiring items.  Bear with me for a minute on these simple questions.

1.  I wired the last layout using a mix of 16 and 18 gauge wire which I purchased on 150 or 100 foot spools at Parts Express, an audio supply house.  The red and black conductors were inside an outer gray jacket, but also had a string inside the jacket.  While I never understood the purpose of that string, I noticed it had broken down over the years to some sort of waxy consistency at the terminal block end of the wire.  I took a photo of this scrap piece so you'd have a better idea of what wire I used.

Question -- What is the purpose of that white stringy material?

18 AWG Wire Used on Last Layout

2.  I've read numerous comments on social media where O-gaugers say "just use 16 gauge wire" or "use 18 gauge wire" or "use speaker wire".  That's not exactly a clear description.

Question:  If I go to a local electrical supply house to buy the wire for this new 7 X 21 foot new layout, what wire product should I specifically ask the counter person for in plain English?

Thank you.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • 18 AWG Wire Used on Last Layout
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I use 16 gauge speaker for the main feeds then 18 up to the track. the bay has all you need. For the money its all you will ever need. I use black and red. The gauge of the wire is based on the load and length of the run. With that said TIU has a 20 amp fuse and then what your power supply puts out 180 brick will pop at 10 amps. My layout is a little bigger than what you are building but I have not had any problems.  ebay link removed due to OGR TOS.

Henry

Last edited by OGR CEO-PUBLISHER

Pat, I guarantee everyone has their own method. I personally like some form of a bus I know that’s not the best for DCS but I’ve never had too much of a problem.

i would definitely recommend between the transformer and TIU and TIU to a breakout board (assuming you used star wiring) I’d use 14AWG stranded wire.

if you continue with that from there are to break out and go to the track you could used the same 18AWG stranded wire you have that is like a com cable so an electrical supply would call that 18/2 stranded. Fun fact the string is there to cut the outer jacket back more if needed.

I would say again in my thought if probably over doing it that if any of your runs are 15-20’ 16/2 might be better to keep any voltage drop issues from showing up.

A lot of the wire sizing will depend on what you plan on running. Most new locomotives don’t pull much smoke unit adds some draw. Or older incessant passenger cars pull a LOT just sitting.

Pat -  Question -- What is the purpose of that white stringy material?

The cable you show looks like it has a twist to the wire underneath the outer sheath.  That being said when you strip the wire the traditional way you will all most always slice into the red and black conductors which could give you problems down the road. The proper way to prepare the wire is to strip it about 4 inches to expose 4 inches of the pull string - enough that you can grab it, wrap it around your finger and then pull it. It will slice the outer sheath with no nicks in the conductors.  Pull it far enough to expose enough of the wires for your connections.  Cut off the first four inches that you made the initial strip as the conductors might have a slice in them. Then just trim off the outer sheath and pull string.  I would do it this way even if the conductors do not have a twist in them.  It's just good practice and after all, that's why they put the pull string in there.

@zhubl posted:

Pat, I guarantee everyone has their own method. I personally like some form of a bus I know that’s not the best for DCS but I’ve never had too much of a problem.

i would definitely recommend between the transformer and TIU and TIU to a breakout board (assuming you used star wiring) I’d use 14AWG stranded wire.

if you continue with that from there are to break out and go to the track you could used the same 18AWG stranded wire you have that is like a com cable so an electrical supply would call that 18/2 stranded. Fun fact the string is there to cut the outer jacket back more if needed.

I would say again in my thought if probably over doing it that if any of your runs are 15-20’ 16/2 might be better to keep any voltage drop issues from showing up.

A lot of the wire sizing will depend on what you plan on running. Most new locomotives don’t pull much smoke unit adds some draw. Or older incessant passenger cars pull a LOT just sitting.

Thank you, Zachariah, for your info.  The layout will have two loops with the inner one having a couple of passing sidings and stub sidings.  My plan for each loop is to run wire from the transformer to the TIU and from the TIU to the terminal block, then from the terminal block to various trackside power clips.  I plan to centrally locate the terminal blocks, TIU and transformer on this layout to reduce the wire runs rather than have everything at one end like on the last layout.

I'm running MTH PS-2 locomotives, but I don't plan to use the smoke capability very much if at all.  (The newly painted white ceiling is not going to be repainted within my lifetime!)

@Bill Sherry posted:

Pat -  Question -- What is the purpose of that white stringy material?

The cable you show looks like it has a twist to the wire underneath the outer sheath.  That being said when you strip the wire the traditional way you will all most always slice into the red and black conductors which could give you problems down the road. The proper way to prepare the wire is to strip it about 4 inches to expose 4 inches of the pull string - enough that you can grab it, wrap it around your finger and then pull it. It will slice the outer sheath with no nicks in the conductors.  Pull it far enough to expose enough of the wires for your connections.  Cut off the first four inches that you made the initial strip as the conductors might have a slice in them. Then just trim off the outer sheath and pull string.  I would do it this way even if the conductors do not have a twist in them.  It's just good practice and after all, that's why they put the pull string in there.

Bill,

Thanks for info and the technique to follow---that's all new to me!  I'll keep all of it in mind as I work through the wiring task.

Add Reply

Post
The DCS Forum is sponsored by
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×