IMHO, unless the factory did this at the time of first assembly, I'm not sure of the value of an after-the-build treatment.
I have no data to back this up, but it's my (engineering background) opinion that the speed at which the dry screws were run into the ABS posts has a lot to do with the 'death-grip' some have on first extraction. The factory drivers for these screws are/were, in all probability, air driven. In order to get the job done in the fastest time, these screws are spun into the as-molded bore at a very high speed. This ends up developing a lot of friction (heat) as the threads bite into virgin plastic. The heated plastic probably has some affinity for the blackened screws. As it all cools down, it achieves that classic death-grip.
Again, IMHO, the manufacturer would do better for subsequent servicing, battery replacement, lubricating, etc., etc., etc. were they to (1) drive the screws at a slower speed, and/or (2) pre-coat the screws (barrel tumble with a dry compound, perhaps) in order to prevent the stranglehold. But, of course, both of which would cost time and money.
But, that said, your idea reminds me of the wood projects Dad and I did 60 years or so ago. When we built my half-the-attic train table in our house, Dad insisted that every wood screw we ran in be first soaped....and this was long before the use of a power driver.........unless, of course you consider our Stanley Bit Brace with a screwdriver blade in the hands of a 12 year old a 'power drill' operation! Yep, we rolled every flatheaded #8 and #10 screw in a bar of Ivory before running it into the pre-drilled and countersunk (Stanley Hand Drill) hole! Years...MANY!!!....later the table came down as I left home, taking the trains with me, for good. It didn't occur to me at the time, but, yes....the screws came out readily.....this time with an 18v battery-powered variable speed drill motor....zippity do dah!!
So, in answer to your posted question.....couldn't hurt, might help.
FWIW, always...
KD