protosound 3.0 upgrade kit problem

If your layout can function using conventional control. You could try that just to verify the engine does run and function properly.

If that goes well. If your engine comes up silent it is at least seeing the DCS signal. It may just be as simple as not trying to add it on the layout but using a separate isolated programming track.

Thanks for the reply but I'm not sure I follow.  I've never run any of my MTH locos in conventional mode, not sure how to.

Not sure how you are set up as far as your layout. DCS can be turned off on any channel using the remote. The channel will respond to voltage input to run your trains. Say like moving the handle on a Z4000. There are also 2 variable channels if your using a fixed voltage power supply and you can vary the voltage through your remote. All is covered in the manual.

You will have speed, direction, horn and bell. At least you will verify your installation was done correctly along with the sound file. Any MTH actually runs quite well in conventional.

Thanks again,  i did turn off the DCS signal  to the channel I'm running and the upgraded loco is still completely dead.  The sound board installed  is brandni t new, just got it from MTH Parts. Is there anyway to test these boards without specialized equipment.

My guess is you have a wiring flaw that is killing the boards if they're all really dead.  Remember NOTHING can be connected to frame ground except the track power black leads on the 8-pin connector!  If anything else gets shorted to frame ground, even for an instant, that's very bad for the PS/3 board.

I think the first step may be to send the boards to a tech that has the PS/3 testset and make sure of the condition of the boards before you go any further.  I can see maybe getting one bad board, even two is possible.  However, three in a row and something is clearly a problem other than bad boards.

Thanks,  The 8 pin harness is connected correctly.  All solder jonts are sheathed in shrink tubing to avoid any accidental shorts.  This last board was doa.  I made the electrical connections, installed the board, in the connector and nothing. 

I don't think anyone is going to diagnose this from afar.

Thanks for your reply but I did not expect a diagnosis just an opinion and possible a suggestion.  That I have received and I appreciate it.  Now that MTH has bailed on their service responsibilities it is hard to find competent advice or technicians in my area.  I have had two totally unsatisfactory experiences with so called Certified technicians.  Neither was able to solve the problems I had at the time so I have given up on that route.

Let's step back.  Is this a true PS-3 upgrade, or repairing a PS-3 engine with a dead board.  Or adding to a PS-2 engine that died?

With a voltmeter you can verify you have AC power making it to the 8 pin.  You can also check the rectifier is making DC voltage from the AC input.

If board has power, but is dead you and 3 different boards, I would suspect damaged or bad wiring somewhere.  Smoke unit, smoke fan, speaker, pinched wire.  You are using LED's correct, not bulbs.  Pictures can help.  But I would not put another board in until you figure out what is damaging them.  G

You're not trying to use a battery, right? Bypass the DCS system totally and run your transformer directly to a test track. After 20 seconds it should start up. If still nothing, check the pick-up roller wiring. MTH checks the boards when they load the test sound file. (usually set up for an SD70.)

Thnks for the sugestion.  I did turn off the DCS power to the track and tried the loco but nothing happened.  I didn't wait 20 seconds, just applied power to see if I got a response.  Will try again on a dedicated test track and hope.

This is not a true upgrade but a repair for a damaged board.  I've checked for any burnt or damaged wires but see nothing.  The only thing I can think of is I did replace one coupler as the original damage to the engine showed burned  coupler wires.  Its possible there is a problem with the new coupler which I can check for.  As an MTH authorized service center where are you located.  As a member of the Virginia train collectors I assume you are in Virginia somewhere.  Are those board repairable in any way depending on the type of damage done to them?   I would consider sending the whole mess off to a knowledgeable repair facility but cost has become the issue now.  I've got way too much invested in this problem as it is now.  a

Maybe this is stupid, but you mention its a repair on a damaged board.  Is it possible that you inadvertently switched the "DCC-DCS" switch to the "DCC" position?  If so, then it will bypass DCS signal entirely.  If not, did you verify that the "DCS-DCC" jumper wire is included in the upgrade boards pre-installed?  The installation manual should show which pins on the large PCB connector needed a jumper.  They are supposed to come pre-installed, but maybe yours didn't?

Actually the installation instructions tell you to disconnect the DCS/DCC Switch from the 40 pin harness  and jumper the wires together if you want  run DCS only.  That is what I did.  But that is a mute point since I cannot read a DCS signal.  However I did find one of the boards which will allow the loco to run   in one or the other direction depending which way the motor wires are attached.  Cannot swtch direction but since I can get power to the motors maybe i can rig up an EUNIT or maybe there is some aftermarket EUNIT which could be rigged.  I wouldni't have all the DCS functions but at least the thing would run in both directions.   As it is now my only other option is to gut the unit and use it as a dummy or for parts.

Give the product number for the engine.  If this was a PS-3 diesel to start, knowing the failure is important.  Damaged coupler and wiring checked all the way back to the 40 pin connector.  Pinched wire anywhere can cause issues.

Yes, I am ASC in VA.  Email in profile.  PS-3 boards are less successful at component repair when damaged and totally nonresponsive. But I have test set and can test boards out of engine.

Some engines have weak or no conductivity via ground pickups and rollers.  But if engine was working until failure, that is less likely.  I assume no 2 rail/ 3 rail switch being RK.  G

One of the boards will allow the loco to run either forward or backward depending on motor wiring hookup but there is no reponse from anything in the 40 pin connector.  If I can find some kind of EUNIT to install maybe I can just use the thing conventionally without the DCS features.  Basically turn it into a Williams clone.  Would a Dalee digital eunit be an option? I'm not that adept in using this forum so I have not found your profile.  Are you anywhere near Northern VA.  I'm in NW VA near Winchester.

Hover your mouse arrow over the GGG at the top of a post.  If you click it you will see my info.  I am SE VA. G