New Legacy M1 stalls on switches

What's the actual product number?

Let's see a picture of the rollers on the locomotive?  Did you check continuity between all the rollers on the locomotive to see if they all are connected?  It should have three rollers, and that should get it through most switches without issue.

There are numerous threads on this issue.  Check to see if a wheel is out of gauge.  Most times the engine stops on the diverging route.

The product number is #2431400. I will have to tke o photo of the pickup rollers when I get home.

How do I check the continuity between all the rollers?

@rscott posted:

How do I check the continuity between all the rollers?

With an ohmmeter.  Just check from one roller to each of the others.  You should have continuity between them all.

@gunrunnerjohn

John, wasn't it one of the other newer engines that there was two pickups, and that they were closer than some prior offerings? I don't remember what the engine was, but I believe someone had commented about that.

That aside, has there been problems with Fastrak switches before?

I've seen newer stuff with only two rollers, it's a mystery why they still do that.  For problem steamers, I add a one-wire tether and share the tender rollers.  I've had to do that with stuff like Atlantic's, etc.  I also have done that with many steamers that have a tether.  Since power is already going back to the tender, so it's just adding a roller an like magic, instant reliability!

If the locomotive has 2 pickup rollers, given where it stops in the first video, I'd say the rear roller is not working.  You can check this on a piece of straight track.  Put a piece of masking tape (an inch or so) on the center rail.  Run the locomotive slowly.  If it stops when the front roller hits the tape, the rear roller is not working.  Run it in reverse to verify that it only stops when the front roller is on the tape.

@Bob posted:

If the locomotive has 2 pickup rollers, given where it stops in the first video, I'd say the rear roller is not working.  You can check this on a piece of straight track.  Put a piece of masking tape (an inch or so) on the center rail.  Run the locomotive slowly.  If it stops when the front roller hits the tape, the rear roller is not working.  Run it in reverse to verify that it only stops when the front roller is on the tape.

Even most cheap DVM’s have a beeper continuity test feature,……😁

Pat

Mine has the same issue. Haven’t had time to dig into it yet though. Even through Ross #4 switches mine was stalling out. Sounds cut out randomly also

I created a fix for the sounds cutting out since the tender does only have two rollers.

New Legacy Steam Locomotive Sound Issue and Fix

I have the older TMCC M1a, it only has two rollers,  However, it has no issue on any of my switches from #6 and smaller, including several curved switches.

Here is the bottom of the engine

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have the older TMCC M1a, it only has two rollers,  However, it has no issue on any of my switches from #6 and smaller, including several curved switches.

Agreed. I have both the legacy and tmcc M1a and the legacy M1b. No issues with any of them. I’m suspecting connection(s) at least in mine

Yep, first thing I'd do is check the rollers...

@WALMART TOM posted:

There are numerous threads on this issue.  Check to see if a wheel is out of gauge.  Most times the engine stops on the diverging route.

I remember reading of issues with the L1 Mikado and Decapods, which were modified from MTH Premier designs.  I wasn't aware that stalling on switches was a common problem with the M1 (which I believe was an original Lionel design.)  Let's please clarify this for the benefit of those considering a purchase.

Don’t forget your ground plane fellas, ….if those center drivers are hung off the rails, they ain’t doing a thing, ….that means only the very most forward set of drivers is supplying ground…I see no axle wipers on the trailing truck……..don’t be so quick to condemn center rollers,….

Pat

I changed a pair of traction tires on a Lionel Consolidation. Engine now wouldn’t always navigate an older Ross 3 way. Replaced the thick Lionel tires with some thinner MTH’s and it’s been fine since.

@Dave_C posted:

I changed a pair of traction tires on a Lionel Consolidation. Engine now wouldn’t always navigate an older Ross 3 way. Replaced the thick Lionel tires with some thinner MTH’s and it’s been fine since.

And on another point on that reply Dave, if these new M1’s are equipped with Lionel’s now infamous mud tires, to be sure the center drivers ( some if not all ) are hung off the rails,……a simple tire change might get the ground ….grounding ….😁

Pat

A couple of my I1s had this same issue I checked to see if the rollers were picking up and some were not, I tightened the screw for the rollers (which was pretty lose) and they worked fine after that.

hmm, very interesting.

Yep, I've been using MTH tires one most of my stuff for years, the fat Lionel tires many times were actually dragging on the fake brake shoes and causing all sorts of problems.

Oh man. I have a Legacy diesel. Must be an early model, where even with MTH tires the brake shoes are too close and rub on turns. I haven't tried to deal with it after having given up quite a while ago. Glad to hear I'm not the only one that struggled with that.

GRJ, when are you going to write a book? It would be the ultimate resource for everything O gauge technical. I'll give you a $100 advance!

Have you by any chance placed it on one of those inside loops and run it slowly over those switches?   Just trying to eliminate a switch/track issue.

So it could be the pickup, could be the traction tire lifting the engine just enough when crossing the switch to lose the ground, and what else?

I know it has been discussed a couple of times for the track and pickup, I didn't think the traction tires would play into this until the episode with the Mogul popping wheelies over switches so it stays on its original course.

@I1sa posted:

A couple of my I1s had this same issue I checked to see if the rollers were picking up and some were not, I tightened the screw for the rollers (which was pretty lose) and they worked fine after that.

They’d have to been violently loose,…..I have not seen this issue with the I1’s or the L1’s …..

Pat

@Scott J posted:

GRJ, when are you going to write a book? It would be the ultimate resource for everything O gauge technical. I'll give you a $100 advance!

I've been asked a few times about that.   I did so much technical writing when I was in avionics design that I got pretty sick of technical documentation!  We used to joke that the job wasn't done until the paperwork weighed more than the airplane!  I swear we got pretty close, and I was doing a lot of stuff for commercial airline jets!