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RailPictures.Net Photo: NP 6507A Northern Pacific EMD F7(A) at Saint Paul, Minnesota by Marty Bernard

Click on the above link and see Northern Pacific ABBA with 6513B. NP attached individual letters to spell "NORTHERN PACIFIC" on their booster units.

A current project is to paint the ABA equivalent of this Loewy livery using LIONEL F3 donor shells modified with scale number boards, additional 3rd porthole window in B units, winterization hatches, vent, scale porthole windows, etc.

Except for 3rd rail, Lionel, MTH, and K-Line have not replicated the B unit lettering. Is it feasible to 3D print the individual letters? And if so, how would it be done. The font, I believe, is Railroad Roman.

(Serendipity--K-Line's F7B 3-rail model is numbered 6513B as is the prototype pictured in the link above.

Last edited by Rich Melvin
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Might be a good project for a laser cutter. How thick were those letters in real life?

The shop drawings I've found show the Booster unit in profile with various specifications that do not include specs for the letters other than height (8") and paint color (white); more specs are contained in other referenced drawings that I've not been able to locate.

For my purposes, material thickness should be 1mm or less(?)

@RRDOC, thanks for the Todd Architectural Models link. A while ago I contacted him for this very purpose and he was unable, at that time, to produce letters smalls enough without the material curling. The 1/4" letters he offers originated with my inquiry. 3/16" would be slightly large, but I'll reach out to him again and see what he can do.

@Jan, thanks for the suggestion. The letterboard consists of letters only. Check-out the link in my original post.

Thanks for the replies. I have some research to do to follow-up on these helpful suggestions.

Last edited by Pingman

I'll second Norm's suggestion for the laser cutter, and I'll throw in another suggestion of a "Cricut" type machine (or other CNC cutting machine).  Either of these methods could also be used to set the spacing so you could use some transfer tape to actually get it on the model.  I know it doesn't answer the original question, but I thought I'd throw it out there in case you happen to have access and hadn't considered it.

As for 3d printing, I'd say it is feasible for a resin printer, but probably not all that practical due to fragility and warping issues at what ever thickness these are supposed to be.

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