Active vs Inactive

Dan,

In order to make an engine in the Inactive List the active engine:

• Power on the track on which the engine resides
• Highlight the engine in the Inactive list and press  the thumbwheel to move it to the Active list
• Highlight the engine again and press the thumbwheel to make it the active engine in the remote's engine screen
• Press Startup.

For an example, refer to page 105 in The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition.

HI barry! Thanks for your feedback. Question: Regarding the track . The lighted cars on the track work,but the engine does not respond....Question: Must I load or designate the track in the DCS? Could that be my problem?

Dan

No!  So long as the track on which the engine sits is powered (at around 18 volts), and is part of the track network served by your TIU, you don't need to do anything related to the track.

Dan,

The lighted cars on the track work,but the engine does not respond....

Exactly what happens when you do each of the bullet points in my post?

When I highlight the engine in the inactive file and press the thumb wheel it stays in the inactive file.  I also have to use a test track to get the engine to load into the remote, I then place the train on the active track but still nothing happens.  My remote does show that there is connection to the TIU and the 2 AIUs, the red light comes on and it blinks once as the book says.  I have also installed the magic light and that comes on.  I have done everything step by step according the the book and it still does not work! I am getting ready to put up all of the dcs items for sale before I lose the rest of my hair or my mind.

Dan,

Connect the TIU and the remote by plugging a 4-conductor telephone handset cable (the curly one that goes between the telephone handset and the base) into the TIU's Remote Input port and the base of the remote.

Power off and on the TIU and the remote, and try again.

If it works, we'll move on to a permanent solution without the cable.

Barry,

I did as you suggested.  Once the cable was plugged in the remote indicated the following:  Volts (---) T.  I was able to move the thumb wheel and change the volts from 0 up to 22 with nothing happening.  When I went to the engine site the engine was still in the inactive file.  I highlighted the engine and pressed the read button but the message received was no active engines on track.  If I disconnect the TIU all together I am able to run the engine/engines so I know the engines are working and electric is going to the track.  

Dan,

It sounds as if you're sing a Variable channel rather than Fixed channel #1.

Do the following:

• Place the engine on the track
• Connect the track to Fixed Channel #1 Out, RED TIU terminal to center rail and BLACK terminal to an outside rail
• Connect the transformer to Fixed Channel #1 Input, RED TIU terminal to transformer Hot and BLACK TIU terminal to transformer Common.

Remove the cable between the TIU and the remote. Try to get the engine out of the Inactive List and then operate the engine.

If the above doesn't work, reconnect the cable between the TIU and the remote, and try again.

Hi Barry!

I did,the recommended connection changes and placed the engine on track and with the phone cable connected from the TIU port to the remote we had a message on the remote which said "no active engines". At that point we decided to add the engine which is now on the layout track and the engine was entered. (Prior to this I could only add engines from a test track). We were able to move the engine with the thumbwheel and it went about 15 ft and then it stopped. ( the passenger cars remained lite but engine etc were silent. The message we got when we attempted to load the engine without the phone cable was " no active engine. I guess its some progress but still its a mystery at this point. Any other suggestions?

Thanks Barry

Dan,

and it went about 15 ft and then it stopped.

Can you put the engine back where it was when you added it, and start it up again?

If so, try that without the cable connected, as I asked you to do previously.

Hi Barry!

Thanks for your advice. After our last communication you suggested I place the engine back on track without the phone cable and attempt to load an engine. The good news is it has worked. We were also able to load an additional PS3 engine and both were running and responding to commands which we were thrilled with. I am still not exactly sure what the problem was, but the rewiring which you suggested was the answer. We did a signal test and also were getting a (10) which is good. I now have only two more levels to wire into the DCS System. Hopefully I can follow what I did on the previous level, with your help. Hopefully if needed, I can call upon you for assistance. Thanks for your help. You don't how much I appreciate the help.

Thanks

Dan

PS: I still have switches and accessories to add into the system which I am sure will be another learning experience.

Dan,

PS: I still have switches and accessories to add into the system which I am sure will be another learning experience.

Oh boy,I can hardly wait...  

Dan,

#1. why would my PS2 engine only run in one speed. Example- with the thumbwheel set at 1mph the train flys around at a very fast speed. It does not respond to the speed adjustment?

This is an engine problem. Chances are, it's one of the following:

• A tach reader that's spaced to far or too close to the flywheel
• A damaged tach strip or paint, i.e., torn, dirty or otherwise unreadable by the tach reader
• A disconnected or defective tach reader.

A good first step would be a visual inspection of the reader, the stripes and the reader's connection.

#2. I tried to wire up my 2nd level of trains into the DCS and tried to make sure I followed the pattern you suggested for my earlier problem. Here is what I've done. I get no red blinking light and in fact no powered light in the TIU. I am using he same TIU but attempting to hookup to the #2 fixed port.

There's nothing wrong with your TIU.

However, you must  provide power for the TIU itself when attempting to operate trains on any TIU channel. There are two ways in which the TIU can get power for itself:

• One way is to get some power from Fixed #1 In
• The other way is to provide a suitable power source into the TIU's Aux. Power port,

This is discussed in detail on pages 92-93 of The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition.

This and a whole lot more is all in "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site!

 

CLICK HERE go to MTH's web page for the book!

 

Thanks!

Dan, I highly recommend you buy Barry's book from MTH or any where else you can find it. It is available in PDF or soft cover at different prices.

The pdf is printable at any commercial source should you choose to do that, says so right in the front of the book.

Most of the problems you are running into are well explained in the book. Reading it will save you time and frustration.

It's the best money you will spend on MTH products.

Thanks Russell!

I do have the book. It has been very helpful when Barry or others suggest I look at a specific page. Its almost information overload as many issues are quite foreign to me , but I am learning. With Barry's help I finally was able to get one level of trains operating by the DCS using Fixed #1 port on the TIU. THe problem I am now having is trying to incorporate my 2nd level into the DCS using a 2nd Z4000 and I thought using the fixed#2 port. I tried to follow the same wiring recommendation Barry gave me for he 1st fixed, but I have not been successful. It seems, possibly I have it wired incorrectly, but I'm stumped at this point. Thanks for all your advice.

Dan

Dan,

#1. why would my PS2 engine only run in one speed. Example- with the thumbwheel set at 1mph the train flys around at a very fast speed. It does not respond to the speed adjustment?

This is an engine problem. Chances are, it's one of the following:

• A tach reader that's spaced to far or too close to the flywheel
• A damaged tach strip or paint, i.e., torn, dirty or otherwise unreadable by the tach reader
• A disconnected or defective tach reader.

A good first step would be a visual inspection of the reader, the stripes and the reader's connection.

#2. I tried to wire up my 2nd level of trains into the DCS and tried to make sure I followed the pattern you suggested for my earlier problem. Here is what I've done. I get no red blinking light and in fact no powered light in the TIU. I am using he same TIU but attempting to hookup to the #2 fixed port.

There's nothing wrong with your TIU.

 

However, you must  provide power for the TIU itself when attempting to operate trains on any TIU channel. There are two ways in which the TIU can get power for itself:

• One way is to get some power from Fixed #1 In
• The other way is to provide a suitable power source into the TIU's Aux. Power port,

This is discussed in detail on pages 92-93 of The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition.

 

This and a whole lot more is all in "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site! Click on the link below to go to MTH's web page for the book!

http://www.mthtrains.com/content/60-1279

 

Hi Barry! Thanks for your recommendation on hooking up my 2nd fixed port int the DCS. My initial question I have is: why would I need an additional external TIU power source to power up my 2nd fixed port? I thought that with the Z4000  I would follow the same wiring as you so greatly suggested to get my fixed#1 up and running. I did follow one suggestion and plugged in a MTH Z500 aux.power supply into the Aux.Power Port. The TIU did light up, but when I moved the transformer handle up the RED Overload light came on#1, and the red light on the TIU did nothing. Could I have something else wired incorrectly?  Thanks for insight. I really want to get this up and running because my 1st level using command is awesome so far.

Thanks Dan

The TIU gets it's power from the Fixed #1 input OR the Aux power input.

If you want to use Fixed #2 with Fixed #1 off, you need to supply power via the Aux Power input. An inexpensive wall wart power supply can fill this role as long as it has the wattage (power, Volts X Amps) needed. Pg 92-93 of the book will detail what you need in the way of a wall wart.

I dug one out of my junk drawer - old supply for a long dead item, works great.

Also very helpful if you pop the circuit breaker to Fixed #1 track, the TIU stays up and you can control the train on Fixed #2 or the variable channels.

Dan,

The TIU did light up, but when I moved the transformer handle up the RED Overload light came on#1, and the red light on the TIU did nothing. Could I have something else wired incorrectly?

Yes, you almost certainly have something wired wrong that's causing a short on Fixed channel #2.

It's most likely that you have reversed Hot and Common, between either the Z4000 and the TIU Input channel #2 or between TIU Output channel #2 and the track.

Barry! Before I start investigating my wiring I have a hypothetical question: If I had an additional two TIU's would I be able to operate each of my three separate levels using the fixed #1 port on each and only one (1) remote for all? I was wondering before I work further?

Dan,

If I had an additional two TIU's would I be able to operate each of my three separate levels using the fixed #1 port on each and only one (1) remote for all? I was wondering before I work further?

In a word, yes, you can. However, read the section in the book regarding "Super TIU Mode".

Dan,

It seems as far as I understand you are talking about different levels that are interconnected so that in the Super Mode a PS2 engine can process or receive a message from the remote no matter which TIU it is connected. Correct? 

Yes.

In my case I have three distinct levels ( scale, real & tubular ) and in no place will these be interconnected, so, can I have each level controlled by its own TIU, fixed #1 and one remote that communicates with each TIU?

Yes. Being connected or not makes no difference if you follow a block wiring scheme.

If so, how would the remote distinguish between each TIU?  Would they be TIU#1, 2 & 3?

Yes.

You seem to think that you need one TIU per "level" where you may only need one TIU channel per level.

You really need to read the book from the beginning through Part iV, and sections of Part V.

Hi Barry! Thanks again for all your past help as I am starting to become more comfortable the more I read and apply. As you may remember I managed to hookup one of my train layout levels successfully using the DCS Command Control. I did decide to do my 2nd level with an additional TIU. I followed the same wiring as my bottom level but seem to be having an electrical problem related to the hookup of the DCS. I know electrical questions are suppose to be in the electrical portion of the forum, but since I am still working on getting the DCS up and running on my 2nd level I thought I could ask. Here is how I wired which is exactly like my other level.

1. From the TIU red& black FIXED IN #1 I ran wires and connected to the    corresponding posts ( first two ) on my Z4000 transformer.

2. From the TIU red & black FIXED OUT #1 I ran wires to a terminal block. I also have my buss line connected to this same terminal block and it then runs throughout the underside of my layout which has drops connected to it from the track above.

3. I have an additional terminal block which is conneced to the transformer ( the two inside posts ). I also have 12 switches connected to this same terminal. My problem is when I power up the transformer and raise the throttle the 4amp button on the side pops. Any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong? I checked and double checked to make sure no wires were reversed? Thanks Barry for your time

Dan,

It appears that you've either wired in a short circuit somewhere in the wiring from the inside terminals of the Z4000, or you've exceeded the 4 amp load maximum on those Z4000 terminal.

You say that you have 12 switch tracks connected to that terminal block. What kind of switches are they? If they're, for example, a switch track that has a bulb on the switch and also a bulb on the controller, those 24 bulbs may be too great a load for the 4 amp circuit.

Barry!

Thanks for getting back to me. The switches are MTH Realtrac which does have bulbs at both places. With electrical questions not being easy for me, what would you recommend I try, to relieve that possible overload, short of taking out switches, which I really do not want to do at this point. Thanks Dan

you have 24 bulbs that probably consume from .1 to .15 amps each, so in the worst case the 24 switches would consume 3.6 amps, or almost the full output capability of the accessory output.  Add to that the switching current, which I believe is over an amp for the Realtrax switch, and you've crossed the line.

You need a bigger transformer, or at least more accessory power.

Dan,

John is correct. You're most likely going to need a bigger transformer for those switch tracks.

To verify that it's the load rather than a short-circuit, remove the bulbs from the controllers and see if the problem persists. If it does, there's a short-circuit somewhere in your wiring for the switch tracks.

If it does not, add back bulbs one at a time until the breaker trips to confirm that it's the load. Then find a larger power source for the switch tracks or split them between two power sources.

A good investment is a clamp-on ammeter, this one from Harbor Freight is find for the kind of measurements you'd be making, and it's cheap.  The clamp-on is great because you can measure current without disconnecting anything, just cleamp around any AC conductor and you get the reading.  Currently on sale for $10.

Clamp-On Multimeter

Thanks Barry and John! I will take out the bulbs to verify that this could be the problem, and I will visit the local Harbor Freight for one of those clamp meters. Considering another power source, would the MTH 750 block work, or the accessory post on a Lionel ZW ( postwar ) ?

The 75 watt brick is about the same delivered power, 75 watts divided by 18 volts gives you 4.16 amps of power.

Dan,

The ZW would provide more amps, however, it might get hot. Also, those ZW breakers were slow when they were new. 60 years later they'd be worthless. Use a suitable (say, 10 amp), fast blow fuse in the ZW's Hot wire.

Barry! I have been working on my 2nd level switch to the DCS System and things seem alot better today than 2wks ago thanks to your advice. I did run my switches on a separate MTH 750 Brick that I had from another set. Taking the switches off the Z4000 seems to have solved my overload problem and the DCS has responded in a positive way. I have one other question: if I want to run conventional engines on the levels I currently have connected to FIXED #1 what must I do to be able to run both command and some conventional engines? Is it a major wiring change? I guess I could eliminate running conventional engines, but I have so many that I would like to incorporate, unless this is a major undertaking.  Any suggestions?

Thanks Dan

Dan,

if I want to run conventional engines on the levels I currently have connected to FIXED #1 what must I do to be able to run both command and some conventional engines? Is it a major wiring change?

You would need some way to vary the track voltage. Your choices would be:

• Use the variable channels instead of the fixed channels
• Use the handles on the Z400 to vary track power
• Obtain a Z4000 Remote Commander receiver and set up Z4K Tracks for the fixed channels. Refer to pages 94-98 in The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition for an explanation of Z4K Tracks.

I run two loops off the variable channels, they're configured for fixed mode.  If I want to do some conventional testing, I just select the track using the TR function of the remote and vary the voltage.  This requires no wiring changes from command to conventional on the loop.

John: So, if I am already wired into fixed#1 to currently run command, would I then reconnect into the variable channels as Barry suggests? If that were the case then simply locate the variable port on the remote? I would have multiple loops with numerous switches moving locos all around. Would I be disconnecting te fixed ports as well?  Thanks again

Dan

You can run two command loops directly off the variable channels.  First, configure the variable channels for fixed voltage mode.  When it's time to run conventional, just select them using the TR key on the remote and you can vary the voltage to run conventional.  You don't have to move any wires to do that.  When you power cycle the TIU, the channels will revert back to fixed mode passing through the full input voltage.

The key here is the channels will revert to variable as soon as you address them from the remote and change the voltage.

Dan,

Regardless, remember that, in order to operate DCS on any channel other than Fixed #1, the TIU must be getting power either from Fixed #1 or the Aux. Power port.

John! When you say configure the variable channel! Would I find this process in Barry's book? In very simple terms.....what actually would I do. I like the fact that no change in wiring is needed, and I would not lose my command capabilities.

Thanks

Dan

Dan,

Would I find this process in Barry's book?

Yes, however, I'll save you the effort:

Menu/System/DCS Setup, select a variable channel and press the FXD soft key.