Anyone else find DCS Commander requires magic light bulb?

Dave,  It is a relatively new product, so it is possible.  It is meant for the HO engines.  Can you add some info on your track size and wiring, and also what engine types you are using, PS-2 or PS-3.  G

Track Size: Fastrack standard figure-8, no additions.

Wiring: Feed single source close to middle of track (10' section before 90° crossing).

Engines: MTH DCS PS3.0, admittedly both steam and diesel from "Starter" sets.

Dave,

Operationally, the DCS Commander is just like a TIU with a single, lower-power fixed channel.

You should treat any issues that you encounter just as you would deal with them if they popped up on a pre-Rev. L TIU. This would include use of 18 volt bulbs (or engineered filters) to improve the DCS signal.

It's also possible to add an RF choke to problem lighted cars to reduce issues with DCS signal strength.  This is a somewhat common issue with some lighted passenger cars as well.

Gun, a request for your own personal opinion?

I've tip-toed into DCS, and have concluded that it's the way I want to go... full steam ahead.

Since I'm planning on ordering a whole bunch of Fastrack, and will ONLY purchase a Rev. L TIU (meaning my existing FasTrack will be merged with my first fully designed layout, would you suggest following Barry's book regarding block wiring, or go with the RF Choke regardless?

I ask because it seems logical that an RF terminator on any section of track can only help, and probably never hurt.

You can't really go wrong wiring the layout properly as laid out in Barry's book, that one is easy.  The choke is sometimes necessary in problem locomotives and rolling stock, regardless of how you wired the layout.  I find that some Legacy locomotives really stomp the DCS signal, the choke is the fix.  Lighted passenger cars are a problem at times, when I convert to LED lighting, I always include the RF choke for DCS compatibility.

Dave R,

   The magic lights did the job for me on my FaStrack layout, it was pretty fair sized and I ran with all 10's using them.  Test your FasTrack DCS layout as you build and you should be in good shape.   DCS works very very well on a FasTrack layout when constructed properly no matter what size blocks you build.  Jim Barrett was absolutely correct 12 track joins max, no matter the size of the track.

PCRR/Dave

Dave,  The chokes are not put on the track.  Your description was lighted cabooses which is the same as placing 24V bulbs around your layout.

Johns, reference to the choke are for engines or passenger cars with complex Constant voltage boards that degrade the DCS signal.  Those chokes are placed in series with the center rail power for those engines/cars to the CV board.  So not really applicable to your issue.   G

Yes I have found this to be a problem.

I just purchased a DCS Commander this week with 100w brick and all was going well the afternoon I purchased it, then after dinner no engine start ...

I started playing around with different wires without moving the engine that would not start. Sometimes a wire change works sometimes not. Sometimes the lights works sometimes not. I am still testing to see if I can find the right combination.

The "right combination" is the full DCS system.

Ha ha you are very persistent, sell me yours

Hmm...  No thanks.

Well magic light bulb it is ...

I changed wires 5 times and have 18ga presently installed but still needed to add a light. The only one I had on hand was a 12v DC panel light which works although it does shine brightly but for how long  ... at least it is working now. Since this change it has started every time however, this experience has made me realize that I should review how I set this up.

My track powered by the DCS Commander it is an inside loop with two manual switches with sidings on the inside of the loop. I am using the terminal track that came in a Lionel set with wires and this is connected to screw terminal under the layout. On the other side of the connector I have used 18ga wire which I attached some automotive connectors to which are screwed on the terminal. These two separate 18ga wires go to the output on the commander. My light is also connected directly to the commander.

Could the smallish Lionel wires that came with the terminal track be something that I should replace?

Considering this is a small loop, should I make another connection to the track?

If I do this will it cause some other issue or should I leave things as they are since it seems to be working, with one PS3 engine at least.

Does the ohm resistance of the light bulb factor in here?

What would be the ideal value?