I'm having trouble finding this part for my 227-series switchers...I've tried the usual great parts suppliers, but so far no luck.
Has anyone ever tried casting their own...is such a thing possible? I have one left in my inventory.
Tom
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I'm having trouble finding this part for my 227-series switchers...I've tried the usual great parts suppliers, but so far no luck.
Has anyone ever tried casting their own...is such a thing possible? I have one left in my inventory.
Tom
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Possible? Yes. There are clear casting resins. You could make a mold of your last one, and cast 50-65 copies.
You can certainly cast them but the cost of molding and casting resin will make this an expensive lens. You might want to try making one with acrylic rod. Use a drill motor as a lathe to shape it with files and sandpaper. Then a little heat to make the bend.
Pete
@PRR8976 - Who are those "usual great parts suppliers"? I have a ditch light casing that I need and I don't know where to begin the search. Thanks!
Thanks for the help, everyone.
Tom
I have clear resin in my 3D printer; Maybe we can make a 3D model from what you have and I can print it for you.
Do a quick drawing show dimensions in decimal inches. It's an easy model to build.
let me know.
Hi Alan,
Otherwise, I can mail it to you if easier? Either way, thanks very much.
Tom
Tom
The more dimension you give me the better it will look. See the wire frame model above.
This model is just a loft of circles along a curved line. So the more circle diameters and distance of the circles from one end the better.
Email is fine. This CLEAR resin on my printer if polished slightly is perfectly clear. The only truly clear material for plastic 3D printing
Polishes to near optical transparency
I sent one email to you and working on another...thanks again.
I have made post war locomotive head light lens from a clear plastic rod on several occasions.
I place a small piece of flat tin can in a vise and heat with a soldering gun or iron. I then press a 1/2 inch length of 1/8th or 3/16th diameter clear plastic rod perpendicular on the hot tin, on the opposite end from the soldering iron, until the rod mushrooms out a about 1/16 inch all around the end of plastic rod. I let cool and saw to the length needed to fit in the locomotive head light hole.
Charlie
Charlie,
I thought for sure that you would definitely chime in on this...seems like Alan will be helping me out very graciously, fortunately. For the future, where does one buy clear plastic rods from? Thanks.
Tom
Tom, most all hobby shops carry acrylic rod. Also places like Hobby Lobby and ebay.
Pete
Thanks Pete.
Tom
Alan has been a super nice guy doing this. Thank you again so much!
Nice to know there are such good folks in our hobby today.
I mentioned in an email to him that it is ironic that my 1939-1942 prewar switchers are getting technological parts help, by way of Alan and his 3-D printer, in the year 2021.
Tom
@AlanRail what's the insides of this printed part going to look like?
Tom, Alan, you may want read more about light pipes and how to make them most efficient. To begin with outer surfaces should be polished and cylindrical. Also gentle curves are better than abrupt bends. The more irregular the more light escapes before reaching the other end. Just google the subject and you will find many guides on what makes efficient guides.
Pete
@AlanRail posted:I have clear resin in my 3D printer; Maybe we can make a 3D model from what you have and I can print it for you.
Do a quick drawing show dimensions in decimal inches. It's an easy model to build.
let me know.
ALAN , I have watched your 3d printing ability on the forum and I'm just in awe. Totally nice work. 🤓
Those look great Alan. Pretty amazing what can be done with modern technology.
Pete
thanks to all. but this one was not very hard.
just a series of circles around a common line.
I just did a single Rail Sweep to create the light.
I was able to test Alan's 3-D craftsmanship tonight and he did an awesome job with my fractional measurements from my metal yard stick. I just needed 10 minutes of minor filing and 3 careful whacks of my trusty hammer and it was properly positioned!
The pictures speak for themselves...
Alan, once again, thank you very much!
Tom
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