Assembling American Standard Heavyweight Passenger Cars

Have you tried Walther's Goo? They had used it in the kit that had several dissimilar materials, stamped and cast metal, wood etc.

I used two-part epoxy and they haven't "exploded" yet, as some of my HO did with popular glues years ago.

I have tried a Devon brand rubber cement but I have not tried Goo specifically.  My previously experience with Goo was that it was thick and kind of messy to work with.  For the last few years I worked just with styrene and the syringe type applicators you use with that.

Try googling "This to That".  It has a myriad of combinations and suggestions.

Ed

Tom D. posted:

I have tried a Devon brand rubber cement but I have not tried Goo specifically.  My previously experience with Goo was that it was thick and kind of messy to work with.  For the last few years I worked just with styrene and the syringe type applicators you use with that.

"Goo" is of course, more of a contact cement type of glue, which needs a different approach.

FWIW, I find it a great adhesive, which holds really well for a very long time. Also, at some future point should you need to, parts bonded with Goo can be carefully cut apart and re-glued again later. Try that with almost anything else!  

Mark in Oregon

Probably the best brand of contact cement to use is Weldwood

Which is Goo in a bigger package.  There are several grades - visit a convertible top shop for the best grade.  It is called "Top & Landau Cement."  Weldwood is almost as good.

Ok thank you.  The rubber cement I used was hard to apply in a small bead, but what did squeeze out was easy to cut my off after it had hardened.  The problem was the parts I glued didn’t hold. 

How do you apply the weld wood?

Hi Tom,

I have built many of these kits. It’s not so much the adhesive as it is prep work. Are you sealing the wood with sanding sealer? If it is not sealed, it will not stay glued. You can buy a quart at any big box store for less than ten dollars. Small pieces I use acc. Larger pieces I use a two part epoxy and lots of clamps. The longer the set time for the epoxy, the stronger the bond. Any boxes mounted to the underside are glued and then I run small wood screws into the boxes from the inside. These are flat heads with holes counter bored. If you choose to use acc, use the thicker types and be patient with the set up. JB weld is another choice of epoxy. Also when using sanding sealer, do many coats with plenty of sanding in between. You shouldn’t be able to feel the grain.

Tom Mapes

Hi Tom, 

The ACC should have worked unless the plastic is an engineering type like delrin  ( you know the slippery flexible plastic some  trucks are made from).

It may be that some 'mold release ' was still on the plastic preventing adhesion.   

I  like to scribe (or scratch )  the surface being glued with a Xcacto just like the pattern on a file .  it does not take long because it doesn't  need to be good looking .   Having used this procedure on highly stressed areas of model airplanes,  it works even better if the scribe/ scratch lines oppose each-other.

Regards, Jeff Davies      

 

Forget all the other crap you have tried. the best I have found is Dev con  5 minuet 2 part epoxy. Get the kind in the double tube and just quiz equal  portions and mix well . I have used this on brass to wood and all the rest. the cure time will be about 2 hours in total, but in about 5 - 6 parts should hold.        Bob

 

 

Tom D. posted:

I’ve finally started assembling an American Standard Pullman kit.  So far I have tried several different adhesives, none with really good results.  None of the ACC glues have worked to glue the metal parts to the plastic sides.  Rubber cement sets up but is easy knocked apart.  I suspect 2 part epoxy will work but haven’t resorted to that.

Could members that have built these kits let me know what worked for you and how you clamped the parts for the glue to dry?

Thanks,

Tom