ATLAS O 40" Straights

Flex is fine as long as you don't plan to bend it. Atlas "flex" is stiff and a booger to bend into a curve. If you want flex, look at GarGraves. For sidings and long straights, the Atlas flex track should do fine. 

I do not need flex for bending, need STRAIGHT track.  Was asking if using FLEX ok if I can't get the straight RIGID track.  Was wondering if using flex would be harder to install on FLEXBED and/or any other problems I may not be aware of.   Using ATLAS O track for entire layout.  

If you want to use it for gentle curves and straights you'll be just fine. I generally prefer to use the rigid for my straights and sidings...well heck I will use it anywhere I can really, it's just what I prefer.  The rigid is never perfectly straight out of the box and does require a bit of tweaking but it's not bad overall.  But the flex is just fine for straights.    

Atlas flex is good for broad, sweeping curves (larger than 54" radius/O-108). It's not real difficult to work with, but you have to do some planning. Rich Battista's technique for ScaleTrax flex will also work with Atlas, but you have to do it with broader curves. If building a layout, IMnsHO the flex is better to have around for general use rather than 40" rigid straights, but I'd use Atlas pre-bent curves unless you're putting in a sweeper or a siding off a #5 or larger "straight-leg" turnout.

W&W posted: Was asking if using FLEX ok if I can't get the straight RIGID track.  You'll be fine.

 

Was wondering if using flex would be harder to install on FLEXBED...    I use this with my GarGraves. Dry fit and mark the edges with a pencil before you glue the Flexbed down. I like Rossbed much better, but it is more expensive.

Do both types of track connect the same? I've not had any experience with Atlas yet...

Yes they connect the same. 

Give me a call W&W

I have come to like the flex even for "straights" for this reason.  Just a little wiggle here and there is prototypical and really adds to the visual experience of the train.  Flex allows you do the occasional wiggle. 

Steve, will call you in the morning.

I use Atlas 40 inch Flex and Rigid on installations of straight  runs without any problems.  When laying straight, I use a five foot metal ruler to insure the run is straight.  I also use Flexed with both items without any issues.

One suggestion -  do not tighten the screws because you can tighten screws enough to depress the Flexed and cause dips in the track or possibly even separating the tie from the rail.  Tight screws also transfer more noise.

Good luck and happy railroading,

Don

Thanks to all who replied. Decided to go with the FLEX track.  

W&W-

Good call; it will work fine. 

Hint: I found that drawing the centerline of the track on the layout surface greatly helped not only in making the sectional curves curve to their true diameter when assembled together, but also helped keeping the straights straight and tangent to the curves whether using flex or rigid straights.

I made some large compasses out of straight edges, and had to improvise for the centers as these did not fall on the layout surface all the time. I used a variety of straight edges, including 4-ft, 6-ft and 8-ft long, and also made a series of gauges to keep the spacings at 4-1/2" between the inner and outer tracks of my Ø108" and Ø99" main curves.

There are several places where I show this, and here are some of them, starting about a fourth of the way down the page.

Good Luck and Happy New Year!

Alex

Ingeniero No1 posted:

Alex

Thank you for the reply and pics.  You have done some things I'm planning to do on my layout and the pics helped me a great deal.  I had cut gauges like you did for track spacing.  Thank for your input!

W&W-

Good call; it will work fine. 

Hint: I found that drawing the centerline of the track on the layout surface greatly helped not only in making the sectional curves curve to their true diameter when assembled together, but also helped keeping the straights straight and tangent to the curves whether using flex or rigid straights.

I made some large compasses out of straight edges, and had to improvise for the centers as these did not fall on the layout surface all the time. I used a variety of straight edges, including 4-ft, 6-ft and 8-ft long, and also made a series of gauges to keep the spacings at 4-1/2" between the inner and outer tracks of my Ø108" and Ø99" main curves.

There are several places where I show this, and here is one of them, about a fourth of the way down the page.

Good Luck and Happy New Year!

Alex

 

I love my Atlas