Atlas rail joiners with Ross track?

Connecting track with pins is a much better connection.  All you need is a block of wood so you can tap the track home without damaging the track.

MichRR714 posted:

Connecting track with pins is a much better connection.  All you need is a block of wood so you can tap the track home without damaging the track.

I have read that in several places  but when tapping the next piece of track in place, what are you tapping against at the other end?

Gargraves track, lower profile removed, Atlas Rail joiner,  Atlas track.

RWL:

I routinely use Ross and Atlas O track together. If you plan on using Atlas rail joiners, rather then shortening the joiner (very time consuming) simply under cut the end rail on the Ross track. I use a small hand chisel to do this.

Other methods include a special Atlas O to Ross joiner - hard to use plus one poster warned me about using them for a reason I can't remember. You also have the choice of butting the ends together and applying power / ground to both sides.

Joe

I usually just snip off the part that protrudes underneath.  But your is a good option as well.

Do you guys just live with the extra spacing between the ties?

And, what about the Atlas style power drops?

RWL posted:

Do uou guys just live eith the extra spacing between the ties?

And, what about the Atlas style power drops?

For me yes. I will use ballast so things get hidden pretty well. If you don't like the space you can purchase a Gargraves track fairly inexpensively and pull ties from it. I think they may even sell extra ties.

By Atlas power drop are you talking about the pre-wired joiners they sell? I have no problems with them but have standardized on split jaw connectors which I can use on either Ross or Atlas O track (but not on Gargraves). I use split jaw connectors mostly because I don't like soldering but soldering directly to track is a whole lot cheaper.

Joe

I would give the Atlas joiners a slight squeeze with pliers to tighten them up against the Ross/Gargraves track. As for the Atlas-style power drops, You can grind the bottom of a regular Atlas joiner and solder a wire to it (16-18 gauge) and they'll work fine. I'd apply conductive grease to the rails before installing the joiners to prevent oxidation from building up in the joint.

Model Structures posted:

RWL posted:

Do uou guys just live eith the extra spacing between the ties?

And, what about the Atlas style power drops?

For me yes. I will use ballast so things get hidden pretty well. If you don't like the space you can purchase a Gargraves track fairly inexpensively and pull ties from it. I think they may even sell extra ties.

By Atlas power drop are you talking about the pre-wired joiners they sell? I have no problems with them but have standardized on split jaw connectors which I can use on either Ross or Atlas O track (but not on Gargraves). I use split jaw connectors mostly because I don't like soldering but soldering directly to track is a whole lot cheaper.

Joe

I have some of those connectors but haven't used them yet as I haven't laid any track yet. Life keeps getting in the way of finishing the table so that I can start.

I take it that you like these connectors well enough?

AGHRMatt posted:

I would give the Atlas joiners a slight squeeze with pliers to tighten them up against the Ross/Gargraves track. As for the Atlas-style power drops, You can grind the bottom of a regular Atlas joiner and solder a wire to it (16-18 gauge) and they'll work fine. I'd apply conductive grease to the rails before installing the joiners to prevent oxidation from building up in the joint.

I did mention in my original post that I could probably make them a lot cheaper than buying them, and easier than soldering to the track.

More curious about the effectiveness compared to soldering direct, since there are other connectors in a run of track anyway.

RWL posted:

AGHRMatt posted:

I would give the Atlas joiners a slight squeeze with pliers to tighten them up against the Ross/Gargraves track. As for the Atlas-style power drops, You can grind the bottom of a regular Atlas joiner and solder a wire to it (16-18 gauge) and they'll work fine. I'd apply conductive grease to the rails before installing the joiners to prevent oxidation from building up in the joint.

I did mention in my original post that I could probably make them a lot cheaper than buying them, and easier than soldering to the track.

More curious about the effectiveness compared to soldering direct, since there are other connectors in a run of track anyway.

Where the problem arises is the joiners seem to work loose/move around from the vibrations of the trains and from thermal expansion/contraction. While they keep the rails aligned, they can make for a weak electrical connection. Conductive grease helps that, but soldering directly to the rails is better.

RWL posted:

Model Structures posted:

RWL posted:

Do uou guys just live eith the extra spacing between the ties?

And, what about the Atlas style power drops?

For me yes. I will use ballast so things get hidden pretty well. If you don't like the space you can purchase a Gargraves track fairly inexpensively and pull ties from it. I think they may even sell extra ties.

By Atlas power drop are you talking about the pre-wired joiners they sell? I have no problems with them but have standardized on split jaw connectors which I can use on either Ross or Atlas O track (but not on Gargraves). I use split jaw connectors mostly because I don't like soldering but soldering directly to track is a whole lot cheaper.

Joe

I have some of those connectors but haven't used them yet as I haven't laid any track yet. Life keeps getting in the way of finishing the table so that I can start.

I take it that you like these connectors well enough?

Yep - just remember if you purchase for Atlas O you need the version on the left that is shaved a wee bit. The standard version is too wide to fit inside Atlas O rails.

AGHRMatt posted:

RWL posted:

AGHRMatt posted:

I would give the Atlas joiners a slight squeeze with pliers to tighten them up against the Ross/Gargraves track. As for the Atlas-style power drops, You can grind the bottom of a regular Atlas joiner and solder a wire to it (16-18 gauge) and they'll work fine. I'd apply conductive grease to the rails before installing the joiners to prevent oxidation from building up in the joint.

I did mention in my original post that I could probably make them a lot cheaper than buying them, and easier than soldering to the track.

More curious about the effectiveness compared to soldering direct, since there are other connectors in a run of track anyway.

Where the problem arises is the joiners seem to work loose/move around from the vibrations of the trains and from thermal expansion/contraction. While they keep the rails aligned, they can make for a weak electrical connection. Conductive grease helps that, but soldering directly to the rails is better.

I agree

Joe

RWL posted:

I have read that in several places  but when tapping the next piece of track in place, what are you tapping against at the other end?

The track I'm attaching to is typically already fastened to the table, and I never had any issues getting my Gargraves/Ross joints nice and tight.

I do not like the pins with the  Ross / GG spacer tabs.  Rather annoying when running no sound equipment.   Every joint is an obnoxious  click on all wheels, IMO.  Even if you feather the leading edge of each rail it is less than desirable.   Three rail running is loud enough without that noise.

Because the thin tinplate rails are so easy to solder I will  use a smooth surface aligning pin which permits touching ends and drop a soldered lead to each piece of track/rail.  I simply drill a hole in the tie next to the rail, scuff it with a Dremel wheel, poke a color coordinated feeder drop in to it and tack it into place.  Goes very quickly.

Tom Tee posted:

I do not like the pins with the  Ross / GG spacer tabs.  Rather annoying when running no sound equipment.   Every joint is an obnoxious  click on all wheels, IMO.  Even if you feather the leading edge of each rail it is less than desirable.   Three rail running is loud enough without that noise.

Because the thin tinplate rails are so easy to solder I will  use a smooth surface aligning pin which permits touching ends and drop a soldered lead to each piece of track/rail.  I simply drill a hole in the tie next to the rail, scuff it with a Dremel wheel, poke a color coordinated feeder drop in to it and tack it into place.  Goes very quickly.

I am not sure I completely understand. Can you clarify this procedure a bit?

Thanks

Which part is unclear?

For smooth alignment pins I touch the side tabs of the Ross or GG pins on a grinding wheel or use friction fit spiral  shank coppers or piano wire and shove the  track together.  Some may disagree but my non sound 3 rail trains now run less the clicks.

Feeder attachment.  2 rail/3 rail the same.

Dremel #EZ456 cutoff disk on a shaft or 90 degree head to clean off the soldering spot. Just touch the base, don't kill it.  I can drill the holes, poke in the drops and solder the connections in less than a minute each.  First I drill all the holes then feed all the wire drops then solder all the connections.  Production run. maybe a half hour for 50 drops.

Bend a Z shape in the wire where it goes through the deck to help hold the tab end in place for soldering

MichRR714 posted:

RWL posted:

I have read that in several places  but when tapping the next piece of track in place, what are you tapping against at the other end?

The track I'm attaching to is typically already fastened to the table, and I never had any issues getting my Gargraves/Ross joints nice and tight.

That is how I pictured the process, but it seemed to me that the mounted track might get damaged or at least shifted out of pisition, from the pounding. It must take a lot lighter tapping than I had imagined.

How often, or at what spacing, do you attach your track to the table, and what do you use to attach it? Do you use the screws that Ross sells?

RWL:

Both Ross and Atlas O sell track screws - I believe they are eqivalent to each other so it comes down to price and availability.

Track Screws - #4 3/4" Blackened Pan Head, Phillips (250 pcs). Price: $12.95

Atlas O 6094 Track Screws (48). Price $4.25

Ross seems a whole lot cheaper.

Where you lay screws is really up to you, track length and the 'levelness' of your train board. Basically you don't want track picking up from the board or wiggling side to side. Once you start you will get a feel for where to place screws.

Joe

I am using the bubble pad, that goes under pergo flooring, with Woodland Sceenics vinyl mat, and Rossbed track bed, so I plan to order the 1-1/4" Ross screws.

I will leave them just a bit loose so as to keep the effect of the bubble pad.

Tap the Ross track together with a wood block.  You don’t have to leave a space between the rails.  Where did that come from?   A little elbow grease comes in handy.  Just push them together.  They will get as tight as can be.  

William 1 posted:

Tap the Ross track together with a wood block.  You don’t have to leave a space between the rails.  Where did that come from?   A little elbow grease comes in handy.  Just push them together.  They will get as tight as can be.  

If you are referring to the "Leaving them a bit loose" statement, that was referring to the screws holding down the track. I plan to get the track pieces as tight together as possible.

Also, thanks for the encouragement on being able to get them together.

I have read several times where guys say there is a gap in the seams of Ross track.  Just push them together.  It is obvious to me that the bump in the track joiner is there to hold the track together, not apart.

does anyone know of the Atlas part number for the Atlas to Ross Track Joiners? same as Gargraves to Atlas?

You can use the Atlas joiners with some finesse.  Gargraves, (left in picture), the below track profile, has to be removed, with a Dremel cutting tool/wheel.  Atlas,(right in picture).  The tie profile also needs to be shimmed/adjusted.  The Gargraves to Atlas transition connectors, were a bit flimsy.    IMO, Mike CT.

Track screws.  Atlas 2nd from the bottom.  Black flat head screw in the middle is Gargraves/Ross.  Both screws would require a pre-drilled hole in the tie.  Bottom group #2, Middle group #4, Top screws are #6, black is a #6 drywall screw.  Except for the black color most screws would be available at a local hardware store.

Ted,

The rail joiners as seen in Mike's picture above are:  Atlas O 6091 (silver), 6092 (black), 6093 (insulated).  As mentioned, you need to cut a way the lower portion of the Gargraves track to make them work.  This is not required for Ross track, which is easier to attach to Atlas track.

There is also this rail joiner but it does not seem to make as good a connection.  I use the standard Atlas joiners above.

Atlas O 6096