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I've been working to convert all my passenger cars to LED lighting, following Gunrunner John's direction, and the widely available LED lighting strips.

 

As I approach the baggage cars, I've begun to wonder if the prototype railroads used an alternate lighting in these baggage cars, perhaps amber or red would be better options. I just cannot see the same bright warm white lighting in a car which contains only baggage.

 

Thoughts? Anyone tried something along this line? Have color night photos of baggage cars?

 

Thanks,

Jason

 

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For example.  Here's a sliding door boxcar where it's not obvious (to me anyway) how to mount a mechanical level switch to detect door position.  That is, the door panel slides on the outside face of the car. 

 

ogr door switch 1

So how about a thin magnet disc to close a reed switch when the door is open.

 

ogr door switch 2

Magnet embedded flush on inside door face (on thickest part of door).  Reed switch on inside wall.  LED strip on ceiling powered by GRJ's lighting board.

 

ogr door switch 3

About a 10 times power reduction going from the original 2-bulb incandescent to the 15 LEDs (5 sections of 3 LEDs)  And a short video - initially showing waving a magnet over the reed switch.

 

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That's pretty cool Stan, another use for the reed switches!  Here I thought they were only good for creating chuffing for steamers.

 

As close as you are with the magnet to the reed switch, you could probably use the 1/8" diameter 1/32" thick ones that I sometimes use in tight spaces for steamers.

 

Next mod is to turn the lights out when the train starts moving.

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:
Next mod is to turn the lights out when the train starts moving.

 

So without getting into the nerdy details, here's an interesting "trick" you can do with the constant brightness LED boards designed by some guy here on the forum.

 

By adding a bi-polar magnetic Hall sensor switch chip and a resistor, you can switch between 2 brightness levels under magnet control.  About $1.  A bipolar (vs. a unipolar) Hall switch has the useful behavior of "latching" its on-off state after the magnet is removed.   So, for example, you turn on the switch by applying a "North" field.  Then later you turn off the switch by applying a "South" field.

 

ogr bright dim hall

Only 2 wires connect the Hall switch and resistor directly to the LED strip as shown.  When the Hall switch turns on, it shunts or "steals" some of the current from the light strip thereby dimming it. 

 

And for your entertainment, here's a short video.  Again, the preview shows a magnet toggling LED brightness by momentarily applying N and S fields.  I figure magnets could be placed at the ends of a station platform so when the train arrives, the lights brighten.  And when the train departs, the lights dim.  The Hall switch chip is on the inside wall of the car at platform level.

 

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I think a subdued type lighting system for the baggage car would be most appropriate. In many cases, there isn't a light on at all. At least in the real baggage car until it is needed. Like at a stop for example. Anyway, lights give cars character and show details otherwise missed from within.

 

Pete

Last edited by Former Member
Originally Posted by stan2004:

 So without getting into the nerdy details, here's an interesting "trick" you can do with the constant brightness LED boards designed by some guy here on the forum.

 Stan, will this work with the led system developed by gunrunnerjohn?

If so, is it possible you could email me a complete listing of all the parts you used with step-by-step instructions on how to put them all together to make what you've done? BTW, my electrical expertise and knowledge is almost nil, that's why I like gunnerunnerjohn's foolproof led module package. Much appreciated.

 

 

ogr bright dim hall

 

 

 

Originally Posted by ogaugeguy:
Originally Posted by stan2004:

 So without getting into the nerdy details, here's an interesting "trick" you can do with the constant brightness LED boards designed by some guy here on the forum.

 Stan, will this work with the led system developed by gunrunnerjohn?

If so, is it possible you could email me a complete listing of all the parts you used with "non-nerdy, eveyday layman's language step-by-step instructions on how to put them all together to make what you've done? BTW, my electrical expertise and knowledge is almost nil, that's why I like gunnerunnerjohn's foolproof led module package. Much appreciated.

 

 

ogr bright dim hall

 

 

 

 

Originally Posted by ogaugeguy:
Originally Posted by ogaugeguy:
Originally Posted by stan2004:

 So without getting into the nerdy details, here's an interesting "trick" you can do with the constant brightness LED boards designed by some guy here on the forum.

 Stan, will this work with the led system developed by gunrunnerjohn?

If so, is it possible you could email me a complete listing of all the parts you used with an eveyday layman's language step-by-step instructions on how to put them all together to make what you've done? BTW, my electrical expertise and knowledge is almost nil, that's why I like gunnerunnerjohn's foolproof led module package. Much appreciated.

 

 

ogr bright dim hall

 

 

 

 

 

This is fantastic, Stan!!!!

 

Yet again the wonderful creativity of those here shines through.

 

I will follow John in asking for specific details being not as bright as most of you with the technical side of the electronics. With that noted I assume this set-up would not be effected by aluminum body cars?

 

Looks like my project list for the winter just gained in length with this very cool feature.

 

Best,

Jason

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

That's pretty cool Stan, another use for the reed switches!  Here I thought they were only good for creating chuffing for steamers.

 

As close as you are with the magnet to the reed switch, you could probably use the 1/8" diameter 1/32" thick ones that I sometimes use in tight spaces for steamers.

 

Next mod is to turn the lights out when the train starts moving.

Hey, why not just use "The Clapper"?  

Originally Posted by ogaugeguy:
 Stan, will this work with the led system developed by gunrunnerjohn?

Perhaps I was too subtle!  That is GRJ's LED board in the photos.

 

As you note, GRJ did the heavy lifting to create a simple-to-install system.  This magnetic switching stuff is not at that level as there are, at this point anyway, a variety of your-mileage-may-vary factors that make me uncomfortable specifying a one-size-fits-all parts list.  However, the circuit connection is straightforward:

 

ogr hall switch hookup

So as can be seen in the photos, the Hall switch chip and resistor "circuit" make a simple 2-wire attachment to LED strip.  Details to follow.

 

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Very cool Stan, there must be a way to work those sensors into something, what's the part number of the one you're using.

 

The resistor is 470.  I just grabbed a bipolar Hall device from the spare parts stash and of course when I went to DigiKey, I see they are obsolete (Panasonic DN8899 bipolar Hall switch).  I used this in a circuit last century.  Anyway, a suitable replacement from DigiKey is 88 cents: http://www.digikey.com/product...61-PG-BDI-ND/2182541

 

If there's sufficient interest in messing with this Hall stuff, perhaps we should start a thread in Electrical as the design details can get a bit tedious which is not at all in the spirit of your easy-to-use, plug-and-play LED board!  So I'm a bit at a loss on how to approach this.  Ideas anyone? 

 

Originally Posted by CincinnatiWestern:
... With that noted I assume this set-up would not be effected by aluminum body cars?

 

A Gall switch/sensor's or even a reed switch's sensitivity can be affected by nearby steel plates (like our passenger/baggage car chassis) but aluminum should be no problem.  And here's a video sequel with 1/32" sheet aluminum simulating your question:

 

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Great Stan, I'm going to get a few of these to tinker with.  They might also be easier to deal with for chuff switches, I've been meaning to look into alternative to reed switches.

 

What's your favorite (and inexpensive) 2-lead sensor, not a bi-polar one, just plain.  The thru-hole ones on Digikey seem pretty pricy, maybe I'm not hitting on the correct search.

No favorite.  As you know when you design circuits for volume production you pretty much have to select components specific to each application to keep cost down.  I searched DK for "Hall switch unipolar" and they do seem to run just over $1 in small qty...but maybe 50 cents at 100 pieces.  Seems fair to me.  I see on eBay you can get unipolars for maybe 25 cents each in small quantity but you'll need to chase down specs.

 

At the risk of going off the rails, this may answer a question you're not even asking!  If you're trying to do a 2-wire sensor, you need to power the Hall sensor even when the switch is OFF. 

 

ogr 2-wire hall sensor

Let's say the Hall chip needs 5 mA to operate (whether its switch is open or closed).  The Hall chip also needs some minimum voltage to operate (like 3V).  So here's a 5V circuit where you sense one of two non-zero currents to determine the on or off position of the Hall switch.  Either 5mA or 10mA flows depending on if the switch is off (no magnet) or on (magnet).  For example, there's a Super Chuffer circuit board (you may have heard of it) used on O-gauge steamers.  I see it has a 12F1501 processor chip which has a built-in settable-comparator function so it could be set with a 0.75V threshold to directly sense the on/off condition of this 2-wire Hall sensor.

 

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You're right about the power, I wonder if maybe I should consider the 3-pin one so that the power isn't a factor.  I figured I'd have to do something to power it, that may make it more complicated than the 3-wire.  I think I could wire a 3-wire one directly to that mystery product, the Super-Chuffer.

 

Since the chuff input doesn't go right to the chip, I may have a problem sensing levels anyway.  I have a 100 ohm resistor and a .1 cap to knock down any spikes.  Then the input if pulled up to 5V with a 4.7k resistor.  It's really intended to run through the chuff switch to frame ground.

 

I need to look more into hall effect sensors, that's a component I never had occasion to use in my designs.

 

All this makes me think there might be some uses for these latching and otherwise hall sensors with our uncoupler tracks. You would have to install a diode bridge on the power supply to the magnet to polarize it or even a DPDT switch to reverse the polarity of the magnet as needed. It's easy enough to get to the wires on the magnet and isolate it from track voltage.    j

Right.  It's been a few years but I know there have been some OGR threads where the uncoupler coil was used to activate an operating accessory car.  As I recall, one application was because the sliding shoes weren't compatible with the track system.  Since an operating accessory obviously has electronics inside, the latching function can be done onboard rather than needing to polarize (drive with DC) the uncoupler coil in the track.  Though I suppose for low-power accessories (like LED lights in a passenger car), a latching Hall sensor can switch enough current.

Last edited by stan2004

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