Benchwork plans and advice

I used that book exclusively. It is so much simpler to build. I think you can build the 12 x 8 with only four legs. The "U" sections are 14 X 7 and I had my 215 lb. up there a lot when I was building and a couple times since. I actually could have done it with only four legs, but I had enough lumber to do the end without buying any more. I just used 2 X 4 legs because I had used ones already. The table is 20' long and 16' wide at the far end.

I used his method, and I am very happy with the result. The benchwork is very stable and can be built in any configuration. The  building process goes pretty quickly once you get the hang of it.

John H,

   Well engineered I like it!  Add the over head shelf layout around your 20x16 room and you got yourself a very serious Train Room.  Put a mobile Bar in the Back, a Big Screen TV on the wall add a couple nice over stuffed chairs!  Oh Ya.

PCRR/Dave

John H posted:

I used that book exclusively. It is so much simpler to build. I think you can build the 12 x 8 with only four legs. The "U" sections are 14 X 7 and I had my 215 lb. up there a lot when I was building and a couple times since. I actually could have done it with only four legs, but I had enough lumber to do the end without buying any more. I just used 2 X 4 legs because I had used ones already. The table is 20' long and 16' wide at the far end.

Wow, thanks for the pics. I am not sure why I was thinking 3 ea 4 x 8 foot tables side by side, when I could build 1 framework for the 8 x 12 table. I am not sure how easy it would be to crawl under the support to stack boxes when it will be surrounded by 3 walls. I need to read the book a little closer.

Joe Gozzo

I like the idea of using just the L-girder with no joists when you are going to build a flat deck. The joists provide a place to attach risers for terrain creation. Screw the deck on from the bottom through the L.

One question I have about L girder, when I see pictures of layouts where they use the joists they generally have one side or both ends of the joists extend beyond the L girder.  Is there a need to do this? From what I have seen they seem to often have the L girder "box" around 30" wide then use the joists  to extend out to three feet. Would making the l girder "box" 36" wide and the joists span 36" be weaker than a 30" box with 36" joists?  

It would definitely be weaker. It would support less weight in the center with a longer span.

Good discussion guys!

Joe Gozzo

I also have a question about the joists. How do you finish the curved  edge? Thin wood? Masonite? Doing a straight is no problem but I've seen some tight curves. 

I have been building my layout following his L girder benchwork guidelines for several years now.   I am totally sold.   I found everything he presented as advantages of this type of construction to be true.  It's lighter, its stronger, I have fewer legs  which is a dream when I get under it on my crawler on wheels.   The 1 x 3 and 1 x 4 lumber definitely warps less than cheap 2 x 4's.   The only minor changes I have made is I started using exterior grade mahogany 1 x 4 x 12 or 14 foot long boards for my L girders only....  It's about $2.25 per foot at a local lumber store and it's way stronger and dimensionally stable than pine so for a major structural member it was worth it to me.   I really like having 8 to 9 feet between the legs. 

 I am also building my layout in modules that I can move if I have to so the joists become the frame work for the module that can slide on joists and be assembled or disassembled easily on the L girders...   Already had to move the first 3 (8 foot) long sections after my dad passed away and I moved into his place, and sold mine 3 1/2 years ago.  

Yes E-unit, 1/8" masonite works really for making curved fascia, and it will bend on a surprisingly tight radius.  Some of the 3/16" luan type plywoods will work too, but it won't bend as easily as masonite.  

Thank you chris