Several ways to do it.
Quickest way is to use a circular saw with a rip blade. Use safety glasses, you will be throwing splinters, just get used to it. It is the quickest way to do a lot of subroadbeds accurately. Much more accurately than the D.I.Y. using a saber saw. The circular blade helps keep the line consistant.
Do not object to it untill you do it.
For small radius like you mentioned I use a small battery powered Dewalt or Ryobi circular saw with the blade set to the thickness of the material and go real slow. It will cut a much more consistant edge than a saber saw.
For larger radius curves I use a Bosch 7 1/4" circular saw set to the thickness of the material to be cut and get the same results.
If you are cutting real small circles use a table saw and set the job up on a pin axis and turn the wood into the blade which is preset to the actual thickness of the material.
Another more conventional way is to use a tremmel or template to draw a line 1/8"+ full then use a tremmel mounted router and trim the edge perfect.
I use templates for most of my curves and a set of 8 spirial easement templates.
To help a sectional 3 rail job go quicker I use a three grooved block of wood with a series of marker holes drilled to run along the outside edge of mock mounted track for free hand saber saw cutting.
When using my Bosch saber saw I ONLY use sheet metal blades. They give a much cleaner edge.
No matter what saw method you use, consider going over the entire job with a 5" orbital sander & 100 paper to yield a smooth splinter free edge.
If you still want to just use a saber saw make sure there is a continuously vacumed clean dark line visable at all times and go light on the java.
Hint: IMO, do not use cheap plywood or dull blades.
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