Best batteries for DCS remote ???

I have used some good NiMH rechargeable from Duracell (just about any brand will work well). But in the last few years I've been using the app mostly and my remote has only been switched on a few times. Because of this I switch it to Energizer Lithium for extremely long life, a lighter remote, and to safe guard against leaky batteries.

I am just starting to think about switching to DCS and I already have the AIU. Can I get some ideas on REMOTE or CELL Phone pros and cons ?

Thanks in advance. 

NOTE: I am mostly planning on the DCS method for my new layout pretty soon.

I run all conventional right now on my Lazy L with 2 MTH 1000 systems.

Thanks in advance.

I use 700 mah rechargeable and swap them out about once a month. 

I would recommend NiMH (nickel metal hydride) rechargeable batteries over NiCad (nickel cadmium) rechargeable batteries.  Both of which types should be commonly available.

NiCad batteries self-discharge at a fairly good rate, even when not using them.  They can lose around 10% of their charge per week!   NiMH batteries will self-discharge too, but at a much, much slower rate.  They may not even be 10% down in charge after 6 months! of non-use. 

Both batteries are available with various milliamp ratings.  Get the biggest milliamp rating you can find.  They will last longer between chargings.  Naturally, they cost a little more.  And it usually pays to get a good brand name, too.  Hopefully less chance of the main enemy to electronics, battery leakage. 

A good charger is every bit as important as a good set of rechargeable batteries.  Make sure not to over-charge the batteries, or it will shorten their life span.  Some more expensive chargers will switch to trickle-charge after the batteries are fully charged.  Nice to have, but like I say, more expensive.

Hope this helps. 

THANKS  MF,

NOT TO WORRY ABOUT THE MORE EXPENSIVE OPTIONS.......,...it gets pretty expensive using the backlight feature on the remote and running after Alkalines late at night 😓..................especially when I have to run back to the house for my mask 😷

HEY John, 

What brand and charger do you use for the 700mah ?

I use Energizer for both.

THANKS for the info and especially for the photo John.

I'll have to look on one of  my favorite ( social distancing  )   online suppliers for this system. 🤓

may I add one additional fact about the distinction between the 2.  This was  big point of discussion here on the forum a few years back.  If I recall correctly it was such a hot topic that Jim Barrett had a column in the print version of the magazine back then too.

NiCads are known to have a 'memory'.  I will try to word things the best that i can but am sure that someone with a deeper understanding can word it better.

When one recharges a NiCad, unless it has been fully consumed, it 'remembers' how much of a recharge was needed.  It then sets that as the bar for further recharges, thus never again giving you the full charge.

NiMNs do not have that memory.  You can recharge them at any time with no negative effect.

Gosh, I hope someone comes in this thread and words my thoughts better!!!!!

walt

A bit more information on the so-called "memory effect" experienced with both NiCad and NiMh cells.

http://www.greenbatteries.com/nimh-battery-faq/

Go halfway down the page and look for this heading...

Do NiCd batteries really have a memory effect?

Read on to the next section as well.

Do NiMH batteries have memory effect?

I prefer NiMh as I have better luck with them and as they point out on that page, cadmium is nasty stuff for the environment.

HEY Walt  and John,    

These are very good facts about the NiCds not being a good choice.  I'm glad to see all of this on the forum .   The issues of the memory and cadmium toxicity  being a problem is very important in wanting to avoid the use of the NiCds. 😵

Many years ago I was heavily involved with SLR photography and I was very disappointed in the NiCds , probably with my inability to satisfy the charging procedures when I needed rapid firing of several rolls of film.📸

In doing acrylic paintings I did learn about the dangers of cadmium in some of the pigments.

 Good replies..............Thanks guys .

I am a big fan of NiMH batteries.  I have used them for digital cameras for years.  The best for tough uses like cameras and flashes are Panasonic eneloop pros and are preferred most camera users.  Do a search of photo or camera sites and read about all the raves.  Enleloop pros cost more of coarse but I find them worth it.  I never have had a NiMH battery leak in over 12 years running some.  I have given up using any alkaline batteries as they often leak .  I have no need for cameras with special built in re-chargable batteries as they are more expensive and not available if you need a battery change on the go.  I probably would not spend the extra money for eneloop pros for train controllers but would definitely use NiMH batteries if their low voltage would work.  I use cheaper NiMH batteries in several portable am and fm radios, both AA and AAA.

I would love to use NiMH batteries in my Cox cable TV controllers but they are only 1.2 volts when fully charged.  The Cox controllers have to have 1.4 to 1.5 volts or they quit. 

Charlie

John: great site, thanks.

BTW: I have personally founr Duracell NiMns to keep their charge longer than other brands that I've tried.  I now only buy Duracells.

walt

I will never buy Duracells again in any format!  I've had far too many of them leak and wreck equipment!  Costco sells Duracells and their own Kirkland brand, which I'm almost sure is made for them by Duracell.  Both of these battery types will frequently leak far before their expiration date, and even when they have not been depleted.

I have not tried the Duracell rechargeable batteries, but based on my experience with their primary alkaline batteries, I never will.

I just replaced two sets of Duracell Alkaline that were not depleted or out of date in a couple non train related remotes. Both sets had burst but luckily I caught them before they made a mess. I also had a not out of date 9v Duracell burst on one corner a few months ago. I am using Energizers now and with the seldom used or seldom in mind devices, I put the Lithium ones in.

I have the Energizer Alkaline and Lithiums.  I've noticed in some applications, the Lithium batteries are depleted faster, I'm thinking the higher voltage is confusing the devices.  I put them in my DCS Remote, they didn't last nearly as long as alkaline batteries.

i guess i should have been clearer, but since the topic was RECHARGABLES, I thought it would be clear that when I say that I buy only DURACELLS and that they hold their charge longer than other 'regular priced' ones, that I MEANT RECHARGEABLES.

- walt

I know you said rechargeable, but when I see Duracell nowadays, it's like a red flag in front of a bull!   I don't know how well they function, or how leaky they are, when you have a few years with them, please let us know.

I concur w/GRJ's rejection of that brand.

well, I have used the same AA and AAA duracell rechargeables for at least 8 years now and they have never leaked.  When I say 'same' I mean the same exact physical ones that I  bought 8 years ago.   they hold their charge for an extremely long time too compared to other brands that I've tried.

- walt

Walt, but once burned by a brand, one avoids it.  I have not had any problems with Duracell 9-volts yet, and use them in smoke detectors.  I have Duracell alkaline AAs & AAAs leak even when not yet dead.  Never tried Duracell rechargeables.  I have 6 sets of Ray-O-Vac & Eveready NiMHs for my 4 remotes.  I get well over 10 years on these.  Duracell customer service, when I called for warranty replacement of some device, did suggest using white vinegar on a Q-tip swab, which does do a good job of getting rid of that white stuff that leaks.

@RJR posted:

Duracell customer service, when I called for warranty replacement of some device, did suggest using white vinegar on a Q-tip swab, which does do a good job of getting rid of that white stuff that leaks.

Not a surprise, they're are Alkaline batteries after all.   While the vinegar will remove the excess oxide mess, if the metal is already etched or the tin coating gone, it's gone for good.

True, John, and I've experienced that,but many forumites might not be aware of easy ways to remove the stuff if the device remains usable..

I'm with Walt on the Duracell rechargeables, I've been using them (and other brands) in lots of things for about 5 years without any problems. I have some experience with Duracell alkaline batteries and just like every other brand out there, they leaked. If someone can find me a brand of alkaline that don't leak, please let me know. 

The energizer lithium batteries I have in my remote now are about 3 years old, still have good charge, and won't leak when they do finally die. When the lithium batteries from energizer first came out, I gave them a run in my remote and they lasted about as long as a fully charged set of NiMH... and both types lasted significant;y longer than any alkaline I've ever used in them previous.

When it comes to expensive electronics, I really wouldn't run the risk ruining them with an alkaline battery made by (insert your favorite brand here).