Picked up this 229 from 1941 off of FB for a whole $12. Missing the pilot truck and has a chunk of a cab corner missing, but I can fix that. Someone had totally fubared the E Unit so I had to swap that out with a good spare.Runs like new. Needs a tender then it can go to work pulling tinplate.
Picked up a car I have been eyeing for a long time with gift card from work for service award.
Joe Gozzo
jhz563 posted:Got this little beauty from Mrs. Z for Christmas, just got it unboxed today.
Combo roll, break, shear. I have lots to learn, but hopefully by next Christmas I can be pulling some nice looking homemade cars around the tree!
Now that will be a fun toy!!!!!!!! How thick can it bend? I have a cheapo Harbor Freight 18" one and you have to put C clamps on it just to bend .015" Brass lol
Dennis Holler posted:jhz563 posted:Got this little beauty from Mrs. Z for Christmas, just got it unboxed today.
Combo roll, break, shear. I have lots to learn, but hopefully by next Christmas I can be pulling some nice looking homemade cars around the tree!
Now that will be a fun toy!!!!!!!! How thick can it bend? I have a cheapo Harbor Freight 18" one and you have to put C clamps on it just to bend .015" Brass lol
Its meant for 20 gauge, which is thick enough. I will have a ton of learning to do. It took a little adjusting out of the box to get the shear lined up and the guide square to the shear edge. It seriously needs bolted to a workbench, which will have to wait for now. The only real concern is that its built to handle 8" wide material, which is a little short for most o gauge projects. That being said, its really cool. I tried it on a piece of extra stock I had and am very pleased. This should make for some fun projects.
Robert S. Butler posted:Steve, I agree they are nice - so you have 4 down and 5 to go.
They look nice with the AMT Santa Fe units but those units are painted in freight colors. Since AMT did make the offering of the cars with the idea that you might want to provide your own head end power I took them up on that idea. I have an MTH A-B-A Alco set to pull them. It does a good job of pulling and the engines and the cars make for a very colorful consist.
...Just to give you an idea of the visual impression...
Oh yes - the remaining cars are:
#4170 Baggage
#5260 Combine
#3160 Coach
Indian Scout
Diner
Down to only needing one. Anyone have a spare 5260 Combine.
Steve
NWL : Thank goodness for Amazon. Based on your post 1/21/2020 I went hunting for another American Flyer Prewar O'gauge book circa 1997 and indeed I found it, ordered it (used $39) and it arrived today! Wow you were right this version really does have a lot more data and more color pictures from the 1987 version I had before. Now I can find more data on all the Flyer freight / passenger cars I happen to have (nothing likely too valuable or rare but just things I have picked up over the years because I love tinplate). I will post some more pictures next weekend, maybe this time get it right!
Thanks again for the info
Don
Don McErlean posted:NWL : Thank goodness for Amazon. Based on your post 1/21/2020 I went hunting for another American Flyer Prewar O'gauge book circa 1997 and indeed I found it, ordered it (used $39) and it arrived today! Wow you were right this version really does have a lot more data and more color pictures from the 1987 version I had before. Now I can find more data on all the Flyer freight / passenger cars I happen to have (nothing likely too valuable or rare but just things I have picked up over the years because I love tinplate). I will post some more pictures next weekend, maybe this time get it right!
Thanks again for the info
Don
Don,
Glad I could help. The 1997 version is not perfect, but as you indicated, it has more information than the earlier version.
NWL
Steamwolf: Got it, a gon with Marx on one side and Hafner on the other. I know that works because I have a Lionel - Marx plastic pickle fork gondola so I can haul my plastic freights with my Lionel loco's. Works well and it increases the fun!
Regards Don
Love it when big boxes show up. Four new 390’s. Unfortunately only one for me. Another box of 392’s coming soon. The locos we have been running at the museum for 4 years during the holidays now have hundreds of hours on them and are getting tired. Being as nothing is being made we decided to stock up while we can.
Steve
This was delivered today and waiting for me when I got home. Purchased off the Bay from the UK, this 1930s(?) Hornby Windsor platform with ramps is a future restoration project. 83cm / 33" overall length. I normally wouldn’t repaint but given the poor condition of this example, I will embark on rust removal, straightening and painting. I will take my time to find good colour matches.
O Gauge Guy posted:This was delivered today and waiting for me when I got home. Purchased off the Bay from the UK, this 1930s(?) Hornby Windsor platform with ramps is a future restoration project. 83cm / 33" overall length. I normally wouldn’t repaint but given the poor condition of this example, I will embark on rust removal, straightening and painting. I will take my time to find good colour matches.
Its only ever original once
I would dress that up with accessories , luggage, porters trolleys etc
British Rail Platforms were seldom pristine lol ... thats just showing the love and mileage of the years
Fatman posted:O Gauge Guy posted:This was delivered today and waiting for me when I got home. Purchased off the Bay from the UK, this 1930s(?) Hornby Windsor platform with ramps is a future restoration project. 83cm / 33" overall length. I normally wouldn’t repaint but given the poor condition of this example, I will embark on rust removal, straightening and painting. I will take my time to find good colour matches.
Its only ever original once
I would dress that up with accessories , luggage, porters trolleys etc
British Rail Platforms were seldom pristine lol ... thats just showing the love and mileage of the years
I have to say that if I was going to leave it unrestored, I would chosen a better example. There's quite a lot of rust. However I very much respect the view of not changing the original character of an item and will give this ample consideration!
looks like the rust is mainly on the fence. maybe just restore those instead of the ramps?
I have an alternate view of rust. I detest it, and it is my mortal enemy. Remember, it’s not just a coating. It is a parasite that is slowly eating your toy. It will destroy it ever so slowly and look for other hosts to attach itself to. It should be our sworn duty as keepers of these ancient toys to destroy the enemy. 
I like Dave’s idea to restore just the fence. EvapoRust is your friend. Also, is the screw original? Make sure it is compatible with the metal. Corrosion and rust are best friends. Incompatible metals start corrosion.
George
Fatman posted:
Its only ever original once
Sometimes I wish we could down vote certain posts...
How about “When it’s gone, it’s gone?”
George
George S posted:I have an alternate view of rust. I detest it, and it is my mortal enemy. Remember, it’s not just a coating. It is a parasite that is slowly eating your toy. It will destroy it ever so slowly and look for other hosts to attach itself to. It should be our sworn duty as keepers of these ancient toys to destroy the enemy.
George
I have many toys already for more than 40 years which had some rust when I bought them; they still do have the same amount of rust, so if you keep your toys in a good environment they will not be destroyed at all (well, not in my life-time). And removing rust, or still worse, repainting, should be done only for items which should otherwise be thrown in the bin.
But of course you should do what you like and I do what I like with my toys. Discussions on ancient toys with historical value which should be kept are spoiled on me.
Regards
Fred
Guys. Won’t get in on the paint/no paint argument. However in regards to Fatman’s comment on loading up the platform, O’GaugeGuy did you know that Hornsby actually made little lithogtaphed luggage. About 1” square and maybe 1/4” thick lithographed with details like shipping labels and travel posters. Apparently the “threw” them into sets as extras. I have a pristine M-1 goods set that contained 2 such suitcases. Each one carried the Hornby Series Name right in the litho so I know they are genuine, would be cool to stack these on the platform painted or not.
Regards. Don
sncf231e posted:George S posted:I have an alternate view of rust. I detest it, and it is my mortal enemy. Remember, it’s not just a coating. It is a parasite that is slowly eating your toy. It will destroy it ever so slowly and look for other hosts to attach itself to. It should be our sworn duty as keepers of these ancient toys to destroy the enemy.
George
I have many toys already for more than 40 years which had some rust when I bought them; they still do have the same amount of rust, so if you keep your toys in a good environment they will not be destroyed at all (well, not in my life-time). And removing rust, or still worse, repainting, should be done only for items which should otherwise be thrown in the bin.
But of course you should do what you like and I do what I like with my toys. Discussions on ancient toys with historical value which should be kept are spoiled on me.
Regards
Fred
Maybe I am exaggerating a little. I have some cone top beer cans though, that the rust has eaten holes through. If you gently clean and wax the rust, you can potentially retard its expansion. Certainly, keeping in a good environment will help.
However, once there is rust on a toy, and this platform has a lot, it is really a candidate for restoration. It is no longer in original condition. I don't even understand that argument. It didn't have rust when it was new. Now, we can debate when something should be left alone. When is new paint better than rust? I likely have several litho pieces with a little rust on them. Trying to remove the rust will destroy the litho. So, you need to weigh the benefits. For painted tin with a lot of rust, I advocate stripping the paint, using EvapoRust to completely get rid of the rust and then restoring the paint. On this item, it looks like you just need to do the fence, not the platform. The platform should clean up with soap and water.
George
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:Love it when big boxes show up. Four new 390’s. Unfortunately only one for me. Another box of 392’s coming soon. The locos we have been running at the museum for 4 years during the holidays now have hundreds of hours on them and are getting tired. Being as nothing is being made we decided to stock up while we can.
Steve
Out of that huge box, this is all that’s mine.
Steve
Wow Steve, that is really depressing - a box that size and all you get is one little, beautifully painted, fine running, great looking, locomotive and tender - you should report this gross injustice to someone somewhere! Great looking mill.
Robert S. Butler posted:Wow Steve, that is really depressing - a box that size and all you get is one little, beautifully painted, fine running, great looking, locomotive and tender - you should report this gross injustice to someone somewhere!
Figured I better not get carried away. Have 2 big boxes on the Fed X truck from Waterman.
I wanted this because I’ve never liked the looks of the 400E with my Blue Comet. It looks too big.
Steve
Steamer posted:looks like the rust is mainly on the fence. maybe just restore those instead of the ramps?
After looking at the supplemantary pics provided I thought exactly the same
But I thought I was in enough trouble with my original statement and was ducking 
( of Course it is also your piece to do what you like with 
, not what some Aussie Lump says 
)
Hornby also had advertising to go on that nicely repainted fence
such as
For years I've read about early Marklin signals operated with compressed air; recently I added this interesting semaphore to my collection. To my amazement it still works! What I'd like to learn more about is the air pumps and related control mechanisms that Marklin made for these; I've included two photos I found on the internet of a signal control box (which I gather is also a pump?), but would welcome more info from someone more familiar with them. Neat stuff!
Fatman posted:Steamer posted:looks like the rust is mainly on the fence. maybe just restore those instead of the ramps?
After looking at the supplemantary pics provided I thought exactly the same
But I thought I was in enough trouble with my original statement and was ducking
( of Course it is also your piece to do what you like with
Hornby also had advertising to go on that nicely repainted fence
such as
A few quick replies Fatman:
- I like the Hornby advertising signs. Thanks for the photos.
- Agree most of the rust is on the fence and I will repaint just the fence initially
- It’s my intention to buy a matching Hornby station when the right one comes along. These were manufactured with several different platform colours. This provides another reason to leave the platform colour as is for the present in case I want to match it later.
- When I see an old tinplate item for sale that’s been restored, I often think “What a pity. I might have bought it if has been left unmolested.” However I never feel this way about an item I’ve re-painted myself.
- I'm in Australia as well
... and to DON MCERLEAN, yes I've seen the lithographed luggage. Thanks for reminding me. I think I know where I can get some. I already have some 1930s station platform items such as the ticket machine and labelling machine from my dad. This photo was taken off the internet and these are not my own items.
John Smatlak posted:For years I've read about early Marklin signals operated with compressed air; recently I added this interesting semaphore to my collection. To my amazement it still works! What I'd like to learn more about is the air pumps and related control mechanisms that Marklin made for these; I've included two photos I found on the internet of a signal control box (which I gather is also a pump?), but would welcome more info from someone more familiar with them. Neat stuff!
Very nice one, great condition for a 110 years ago piece. the signal control boxhas a pump mechanism in to allow control of two accessories. they are not easy to use as with age then tend to be dry and you have to change some old leather and rubber parts.
Here is a video of working models in France.
Daniel
FRENCHTRAINS posted:John Smatlak posted:For years I've read about early Marklin signals operated with compressed air; recently I added this interesting semaphore to my collection. To my amazement it still works! What I'd like to learn more about is the air pumps and related control mechanisms that Marklin made for these; I've included two photos I found on the internet of a signal control box (which I gather is also a pump?), but would welcome more info from someone more familiar with them. Neat stuff!
Very nice one, great condition for a 110 years ago piece. the signal control boxhas a pump mechanism in to allow control of two accessories. they are not easy to use as with age then tend to be dry and you have to change some old leather and rubber parts.
Here is a video of working models in France.
Daniel
Thanks Daniel- and what an amazing video! I hope that locomotive survived to run another day!
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:Robert S. Butler posted:Steve, I agree they are nice - so you have 4 down and 5 to go.
...Just to give you an idea of the visual impression...
Oh yes - the remaining cars are:
#4170 Baggage
#5260 Combine
#3160 Coach
Indian Scout
Diner
Down to only needing one. Anyone have a spare 5260 Combine.
Steve
Steve- coulda swore there’s one currently on eBay but it’s for $135. It might’ve been a B&O though.
The 5260 combine was the second AMT I bought. Wish I could help you out but instead of having 2 combined they had two 3160 coaches, otherwise I’d lend a hand. That said, I’m sure you’ll find one soon. What are you going to use to power the consist?
I realize it’s been awhile but I did happen to come across some neat stuff recently:
Bing PRR #41(?) Caboose? In decent shape just missing the roof. Bing 10/515 dumping car- also in good shape besides a rust spot along the on me side. Finally, Bing again, I believe #10/580 4 wheel Milch-Wagen. Like it a lot and had my eyes on it for a while. which I like because it’s tbe first other Bing train I’ve bought- besides my very first- too have the auto couplers(pictured below). The snug together better than any couplers I’ve ever come and because they’re riveted the motion is nice and smooth.
Better shot of Bing dumpcar and the milch-Wayne.
Another reason I like this guy? it’s the first Bing train I’ve bought- besides my very first!- too have the auto couplers(pictured below). Once they couple- wow. I mean, looks good, its not going to come undone, not too much “vertical slack”- aka not too much up and down but there’s enough for some realism. They just move together so smoothly when going down the tracks as opposed to some other tinplate couplers. Still, I love the sound of Tin on the track
First Bing rolling stock with a “The Bings Miniature Railway System” on the top of the back in which “Bing” is plural. End of year goal- one in each font and letter combo!
this next piece bothered me at first- the ubiquitous 1679 Baby Ruth box car by Lionel Lines. Why was I bothered ? Because I ordered an “Ives RR Lines” version- b/c I like seeing the physical Ives/Lionel overlap and I would’ve liked to set it side by side with the Lionel one I already own. That said, this guy is in awesome shape(way better than the on I have) and I got over half my money back, and I’ll find the Ives version soon enough.
this picture my own work: the guy in the red jacket and the porter as well as the luggage/carts next to them. I started painting figures for the first time about a month ago and really enjoyed it and found I’m rather decent at it!
next that little tiny house- it’s actually from a Bing OO table top accessory. It was on eBay listed as “HO”. well, last time someone put Bing “HO”, I jumped because it looked too big and indeed it was a small O gauge guard shack. No such luck this time. Still, interesting piece to have and I found the platform to which it belongs.
added another Corgi diorama(on the left) I like how these 2 just fit together(but I believe that was the intention). This one is of Nazi’s surrendering(figures are neat with Nazis running with their hands on their heads)
while only in the”60-70 year old range” bought these 10 authenticast figures for $13 and was refunded shipping so it ended up being ten. Regardless- awesome shape. The”Eire” is marked on the bottom as is common with some of these figures after production site was changed. Regardless, all in great shape and fit very well with any modern o scale figures(size wise)
the current state of my layout 
as I expand - I’m getting there! But still a lot to be done.
StevefromPA posted:Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:Robert S. Butler posted:Steve, I agree they are nice - so you have 4 down and 5 to go.
...Just to give you an idea of the visual impression...
Oh yes - the remaining cars are:
#4170 Baggage
#5260 Combine
#3160 Coach
Indian Scout
Diner
Down to only needing one. Anyone have a spare 5260 Combine.
Steve
Steve- coulda swore there’s one currently on eBay but it’s for $135. It might’ve been a B&O though.
The 5260 combine was the second AMT I bought. Wish I could help you out but instead of having 2 combined they had two 3160 coaches, otherwise I’d lend a hand. That said, I’m sure you’ll find one soon. What are you going to use to power the consist?
For now, I'll use a Marx tin 21 AA,
Steve
Stevefrompa - the Bing catalog number for your caboose is 525/43/0. Now that you have the PRR with the lithoed wood siding I would presume your next goal would be to find the PRR caboose with lithoed metal sides...
John Smatlak posted:For years I've read about early Marklin signals operated with compressed air; recently I added this interesting semaphore to my collection. To my amazement it still works! What I'd like to learn more about is the air pumps and related control mechanisms that Marklin made for these; I've included two photos I found on the internet of a signal control box (which I gather is also a pump?), but would welcome more info from someone more familiar with them. Neat stuff!
I had no idea these existed. Maybe you just blew into a little hose?
Picked this one up a few weeks ago. A 7010 engine, which would be a Montgomery Ward's special engine from American Flyer, c. 1929-1930. I had one, but its paint was not as nice as this one.
NWL
Robert S. Butler posted:Stevefrompa - the Bing catalog number for your caboose is 525/43/0. Now that you have the PRR with the lithoed wood siding I would presume your next goal would be to find the PRR caboose with lithoed metal sides...
Thank you for providing the item number- that’s the one I needed. Must say I like the metal siding more, and that’s after 1.) not usually running a Caboose and 2.) not thinking I’d like the wood siding version ha. Regardless, I like that red a lot! Will it be my next Bing buy though? There’s so many great tinplate European Prewar toy train manufacturers- Basset-Lowke, Hornby, Jep, Märklin, Bing, Liebmann, Distler, I couldngo on and on. Unfortunately, my health has precluded me from attending some recent shows and I hope I can get to Allentown(20min drive) for Spring thaw
on another note- what the heck did I buy here? It’s a “3 in 1” train set with built rite cardboard buildings
I found a boxed photo. It sai(I think) D.P.M.G a.n.g. On the side. And had a “GW” logo on front for the road name.
Also- anyone know anything about this KBN wind-up I bought(yet to arrive)? year? Was it with a set?. For some reason it caught my eye
Your assistance in shedding any light/historical info on these items would be greatly appreciated !
Nation Wide Lines posted:Picked this one up a few weeks ago. A 7010 engine, which would be a Montgomery Ward's special engine from American Flyer, c. 1929-1930. I had one, but its paint was not as nice as this one.
NWL
Wow, NWL- that is an absolute beaut of an electric. Thegold vents and green paint blend fantastically. Like that it says “Motor 7010”- considering it’s from the “transition era”, Ives labeled their engines up to 1925 with a stamped “Motor 32..” and then went to brass plates, and it looks like Ives print. All this is totally out of my own noggin which isn’t working the best right now but still there’s some resemblance. That’s a great pick up, to say the least
@StevefromPA Pretty sure your clockwork set is a Heinrich Wimmer ( HWN ) / Distler from after the war when factories were sharing stuff and supplying to other places to onsell the GW could refer to Galvanik Weimar ...
Distler sold pretty much the same loco with "Choo Choo " on the tender
I have found your set on ebay currently and its the "GW Construction Train Set " listing # 222229570645
Ths was cool as it came with the ability to interchange the load the train was carrying either a passenger or freight box could be placed on the flatcar with tabs
The Bub is def from the early 20's in my limited opinion ?
Steve, the Bub loco appears to be one of the combination clockworks they sold for both the European and American markets. A cowcatcher slid over the buffers on the front depending on where the set was sold.
The HWN set and boxtop. The log car on the box is actually inaccurate as you can see from the set. The flat car with the logs is covered when you add the passenger car shell, so the 3 in 1 set is single cars behind the tender depending on which option of the three you choose. The renderings of a 4-car set are totally inaccurate (unless you had a second set).
Here is another item I picked up a few weeks ago. Its condition is better than most I have come across.
The engine came with a set of Milwaukee Road litho cars and would date to c. 1925.
NWL
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