Looking to " convert" my Lionel " Yellow-Belly" Hudson, over to a " Can" motor. But, I'll need 1). Motor, 2). Mounting plate to fit the locos frame, Suggestions ?? Thank You !
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If you haven't already... give this thread a read ...and, shoot the heavy hitters an email.
Joe,
Years ago I converted my Lionel C&O Hudson to a can motor from Frank Timko. I bought two motors and still have the spare. It directly replaces the Pullmor motor. Just drops right in. Send me an email if you are interested.
Ken
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@Joe Cassiday Jr - kanawha's motor sounds like a good fit (both figuratively and literally) for you, particularly since Frank Timko unfortunately passed away recently and apparently his highly regarded business is no longer. Good Luck!
The problem with the Timko conversion for heavier steamers is the Mabuchi RS385 motor simply isn't powerful enough for the weight. The Pittman conversion that Pat at @harmonyards does is top shelf, and I guarantee that motor power won't be a problem! 
John,
I respectfully disagree about the motor. The Pittman would always be a better choice, but like I said I put one of these Timko motors in the Hudson many years ago. Installed a TAS EOB which was the best choice for a command control retrofit back then and I ran the engine at home and at shows for almost 10 years before I sold it. I only sold it because I ordered the 3RD Rail L-1 Hudson which it is way superior in detail and running than the Lionel.
I routinely ran it for hours with eight 18" passenger cars at shows and up to ten 21" passenger cars at home. Now there aren't grades on my home or club layout so I never saw what it could do on a grade. The fellow I sold it to ran it at York with the National Capital Trackers and he said it ran for hours with no issues.
Ken
I’ll toss this on here, and we’ll let those that travel by rail decide,…….
Pat 
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@kanawha posted:John,
I respectfully disagree about the motor. The Pittman would always be a better choice, but like I said I put one of these Timko motors in the Hudson many years ago. Installed a TAS EOB which was the best choice for a command control retrofit back then and I ran the engine at home and at shows for almost 10 years before I sold it. I only sold it because I ordered the 3RD Rail L-1 Hudson which it is way superior in detail and running than the Lionel.
I routinely ran it for hours with eight 18" passenger cars at shows and up to ten 21" passenger cars at home. Now there aren't grades on my home or club layout so I never saw what it could do on a grade. The fellow I sold it to ran it at York with the National Capital Trackers and he said it ran for hours with no issues.
Ken
Well, I can only say that's a sample of one. I had two of the Lionel 6-18006 Reading T1 locomotives with the Timko Mabuchi RS-385 motor conversion, and they were quite underpowered. Yes, they ran, but I doubt they'd do ten 21" passenger cars! I truthfully never considered the little Mabuchi for my Yellowbelly based on that experience.
Well, I'm not going to argue about this. A larger motor would be better, but the Timko motor performed fine for me.
Ken
@kanawha posted:Well, I'm not going to argue about this. A larger motor would be better, but the Timko motor performed fine for me.
Ken
I think it boils down to this Ken, there’s some engines like yours where the stars & the planets aligned, and it works great, …..Some folks are fine with the small motor, and that’s totally cool, Timko’s product ( a great man BTW ) was a fantastic DIY product. I’ve seen both sides of the aisle, it worked great, or it’s underwhelming and can’t pull a bum out of bed, ……the large Pittman delivers 100% of the time ……
Pat
Hey kanawha- do you still have that motor available? If the OP didn’t want it, I’d be interested in it…I’m doing the same project…
Rick
Rick,
Sorry the OP already spoke up for it.
Ken
@Rick Stoffregen posted:Hey kanawha- do you still have that motor available? If the OP didn’t want it, I’d be interested in it…I’m doing the same project…
Rick
No worries, I have a pile of them too. Obviously, I remove them when folks opt for more pulling power. Contact me via profile.
Pat
Mine continues to be a work in progress. First mod was to mate a Faulhaber 24V can to the chassis. Wired to an ERR cruise commander, it creeps to extremes unlike most anything, which was my experimental intention. Consequently, top speed is maybe 40mph, but who runs much faster than that on their home layout? PulOutMor to OutPulMor.
Bruce
@brwebster posted:Mine continues to be a work in progress. First mod was to mate a Faulhaber 24V can to the chassis. Wired to an ERR cruise commander, it creeps to extremes unlike most anything, which was my experimental intention. Consequently, top speed is maybe 40mph, but who runs much faster than that on their home layout? PulOutMor to OutPulMor.
Bruce
but who runs much faster than that on their home layout?
I do!!…..I haven’t cracked 100 SMPH yet, but I’ve been creeping up on it,…..my best is 96 SMPH ……Mario can verify this!!….😉
Pat
@brwebster posted:Mine continues to be a work in progress. First mod was to mate a Faulhaber 24V can to the chassis. Wired to an ERR cruise commander, it creeps to extremes unlike most anything, which was my experimental intention. Consequently, top speed is maybe 40mph, but who runs much faster than that on their home layout? PulOutMor to OutPulMor.
Bruce
It could be the motor is overloaded and simply can't do any more, that portends a quick end to the motor if you run it at length full out. OTOH, it might be that the motor simply isn't getting the full power to stretch it's legs, you do mention 24V, way more than you'll get out of the Cruise Commander.
If you are interested in the timko upgrade, here is a thread that I did this with mine. I didn’t plan to use it on grades and decided to stick with pulling smaller trains. It is a huge improvement over stock and was able to complete these upgrades myself.
If you are looking for stump pulling performance like a typical mth premier steamer, Pat’s upgrade is the way to go. Down the road I may look into Pat’s Pittman upgrade, but for now I am having fun with my current set up.
If you go full-up with Pat's motor transplant, here's what's possible. 
John's C&O Yellowbelly Hudson Upgrades
Yeah, there’s really no comparison, Frank’s set up is great for the DIY fellas, with basic hand tools, ……but if you want energy sipping big power, and pull as much as your heart’s desire, you really need this:
Pat
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Testing undergoing on yet another Pittman swapped ex-Pulmor gem for a client, ……this thing hasn’t even begun to break a sweat yet!….I think 25-30 heavies might make her slip a wee bit, ……but 17 cars, she’s still biting hard on those rails!!…..😉
Pat
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Now, that's a PASSENGER train!
That looks like a Mohawk Pat? At first I thought it was a postwar Pennsy S2, but I didn't see the pilot truck. After the second watch, yup, Mohawk, 3005 by the looks.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:you do mention 24V, way more than you'll get out of the Cruise Commander.
John I'm curious... Full 19V on the rails, crank the CAB-2 up to speed step 100. How much DC voltage does get to the motor? (I'm guessing 16-17 volts, but perhaps you've actually measured.) Thanks!
Truthfully, I haven't measured recently, but I remember from years ago seeing about 15V at full throttle on the CC-M. I know that Lionel uses 12V and 15V motors, so that sounds about right.
For what it's worth, I measure all new installs on the bench I've only measured over 15v on a motor driver one time and it was unique to one TAS SAW board which put 17v at the motor leads all other PWM drivers I've measured topped out at 15v. When the supplied voltage was 18vac. j
Sounds right to me John, I'd be surprised to see more than 15V at full throttle with Lionel hardware.
I know where my buddy 24V Ted’s mind is going!!…….😉
Pat
I also remember that the Cruise Commander has an AUX setting for "large motor" and "small motor." I wonder if that makes a difference in terms of max voltage? Or what other variables it might change in terms of the expected back-EMF?
