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The catenary wire is 20" long so poles are 20" on the straight sections.  Poles are closer together on curves.  Because the bridge you see is a lift bridge the catenary through the bridge is made from 1/16" welding rod with 1/4" brass for the supports.  The catenary can be powered however, that is not an option if you are using a VL GG1.  Geometry of the curves is extremely important.  Because our curves are much sharper than the prototype the pantograph will extend over the center line of the rails.  Bend and fit your catenary wire BEFORE you anchor the poles.  Use your locomotive as a gauge and keep the wire as close to the center of the sliders as possible.  One last thing, the VL GG1 pan is more scale size than most others so it is a little more narrow.  It is also bolted to the body so, unlike most other pans that will just pop off in an accident, any accident involving the pan is sure to cause damage to the pan.  At $80 a pop for a new pan, you will want to be careful.

Thanks for the comments, everyone.  The poles were painted with a leather brown to look like they been there a long time.  The catenary wire is painted with sea glass green to duplicate the green patina of copper.  If you are going to power the catenary don't paint it, or dry brush it after installation or you will have conductivity problems.

Here is a video of my layout 4 years ago when I was beginning to detail it.  The catenary is modified MTH and you will see the Lionel Acela operating on it...about a minute or two into the video.  By the way, lots of changes have taken place including most of the raw wood you see is now covered and/or painted.  Make sure you click on the HD symbol on the bottom right and then set it for 1080...then click on the expand/full page symbol in the bottom right corner.

Last edited by OGR CEO-PUBLISHER
OGR CEO-PUBLISHER posted:

Here is a video of my layout 4 years ago when I was beginning to detail it.  The catenary is modified MTH and you will see the Lionel Acela operating on it...about a minute or two into the video.  By the way, lots of changes have taken place including most of the raw wood you see is now covered and/or painted.  Make sure you click on the HD symbol on the bottom right and then set it for 1080...then click on the expand/full page symbol in the bottom right corner.

Great video Alan, may I ask what camera you are using for this ?

Alan, at the risk of sounding like I'm patronizing the publisher, your video is the very first video of scale proportioned trains that I have watched from beginning to end. And several times too. What a treat.

Normally, watching videos with the start up of these new trains going as slow as they possibly can, so you can count the chuffs to the wheel revolutions, bores me to tears. Next, please. No imagination in that. But to each their own.

Then there's the videos from folks who are constantly chastising the train companies for "not getting it right," who have their layouts on indoor/outdoor carpeting or green felt... there's nothing high rail about that. It's just a modern version of the postwar green painted sheet of plywood. But again, to each their own. Every sale, be it a starter set or a high end item, helps keep the train companies in business. I just find it ironic how critical some people have become... to anyone and everyone but themselves.

So watching your video Alan, I thought "Now that's a high rail layout!" There was just so much to look at and take notice of. Even not being finished as you noted, it was still a feast for the eyes, with all the details. It was not quite 5 minutes for the train to return to the starting point. Wow, that's a BIG layout. There are museum and club layouts that don't have as much to take notice of.

There's nothing that is going to move me away from conventional control 027 trains. But I sure enjoyed the artistry, the attention to detail - and not immediately evident - also the well-conceived planning that went into executing your entire layout.

Like I said, I watched it several times, and each time was as enjoyable as the last. 

OGR CEO-PUBLISHER posted:

Here is a video of my layout 4 years ago when I was beginning to detail it.  The catenary is modified MTH and you will see the Lionel Acela operating on it...about a minute or two into the video.  By the way, lots of changes have taken place including most of the raw wood you see is now covered and/or painted.  Make sure you click on the HD symbol on the bottom right and then set it for 1080...then click on the expand/full page symbol in the bottom right corner.

Alan:

Your layout is breath-taking and the video is fabulous! I love large city scenes. I have one rather odd-ball question. At 1:30 into the video, there are 2 Tuscan red, interurban cars. Because the train goes by them so fast, I couldn't be sure of the railroad name on them, but, they look to be Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines. Is that correct? If so, who made them, Lionel, MTH, Atlas?

Thank you.

The catenary poles are best mounted directly to a solid table top.  Use the foam under the track; the height of the crossmember is adjustable.

Your table is 16x8 so the perimeter is 48 (L+W*2).  If your track is 6” from the edge your track is going to be 15x7, or about 29 linear feet (it will be somewhat less because of your curves).  Each catenary section is 20” long so: (29*12)/20 = 17.4 or 18 sections.  This would be the maximum if your track was at the edge of your board and does not consider curves which would reduce the number of linear feet.  You should be okay with two (2) 8 packs of catenary or you could buy an extra 4 pack for insurance.

You will, definitely, need a 2.4mm flat screwdriver as well as a #0 and #1 Phillips screwdriver.  Layout and secure your track then layout your catenary.  Adjust all of the pole crossmembers - mine are set at 6” above the railhead which will put the messenger wire at 5” above the rail.  Use your GG1 as a gauge with both pantographs up.  Keep the messenger wire as close to the center as possible.  Bend your curves gently and position your poles to maintain the arc of the curve.  TAKE YOUR TIME!  Doing it right the first time will save you hours of “fixing” later.

  

I completely agree with the take your time comment above.  If you do a good job now, the system will work nearly flawlessly.  A couple of additional comments:

1)  The screws supplied to attach the poles to the table in the units I bought were really weak.  Get some good screws of the same size or a little longer from the hardware store to save frustration.

2) The ends of the cross arms are really sharp.  I got two stitches in my forehead when I leaned in to fix something and took one in the head!

3) The adjustable length pieces and the extender pieces are really handy when your track run does not fit evenly into the lengths of the wires.  They are ugly so I hid mine in a tunnel.  Sounded like a good idea at the time but was a real pain.  Next time I will hide it behind a building where I can get to it for maintenance.

Rolland

 

Robert Cushman posted:

Thank you Dave!

I currently have a 16x8 with a hole cutout in the middle with 1/4” plywood for the top. Should I grab some foam to lay over it or would it be better to screw the catenary to wood instead? I imagine wood would be sturdier but I wanted to quiet down my track a bit with the foam underneath.

I used 1/4 inch plywood on my current layout which I'm currently tearing down for a redo. I had a lot of eco issues and flex which caused scenery cracking. I am going with a thicker plywood this time around am I'm also going to utilize MTH Realtrax as I have seen many successful layouts done when it's used correctly.  No more ballasting for me, easy for some but always a nightmare for me. Good luck.

Robert Cushman posted:

Here is what Im going to be putting the Catenary on. Not sure whether it will be the inner or outter loop though. Dave DoubleDaz designed it for me and Dave Ripp found me the poles. Thank you to all the Dave's out there. I ended up finding 3 sets of 8 and 1 set of 4. 

Picture doesn’t work on iPhone?

brianel_k-lineguy posted:

Alan, at the risk of sounding like I'm patronizing the publisher, your video is the very first video of scale proportioned trains that I have watched from beginning to end. And several times too. What a treat.

Normally, watching videos with the start up of these new trains going as slow as they possibly can, so you can count the chuffs to the wheel revolutions, bores me to tears. Next, please. No imagination in that. But to each their own.

Then there's the videos from folks who are constantly chastising the train companies for "not getting it right," who have their layouts on indoor/outdoor carpeting or green felt... there's nothing high rail about that. It's just a modern version of the postwar green painted sheet of plywood. But again, to each their own. Every sale, be it a starter set or a high end item, helps keep the train companies in business. I just find it ironic how critical some people have become... to anyone and everyone but themselves.

So watching your video Alan, I thought "Now that's a high rail layout!" There was just so much to look at and take notice of. Even not being finished as you noted, it was still a feast for the eyes, with all the details. It was not quite 5 minutes for the train to return to the starting point. Wow, that's a BIG layout. There are museum and club layouts that don't have as much to take notice of.

There's nothing that is going to move me away from conventional control 027 trains. But I sure enjoyed the artistry, the attention to detail - and not immediately evident - also the well-conceived planning that went into executing your entire layout.

Like I said, I watched it several times, and each time was as enjoyable as the last. 

WOW....I thank you so much for the nice compliment.  I am going to do an update video as a lot of more detail has been added.

Randy Harrison posted:
OGR CEO-PUBLISHER posted:

Here is a video of my layout 4 years ago when I was beginning to detail it.  The catenary is modified MTH and you will see the Lionel Acela operating on it...about a minute or two into the video.  By the way, lots of changes have taken place including most of the raw wood you see is now covered and/or painted.  Make sure you click on the HD symbol on the bottom right and then set it for 1080...then click on the expand/full page symbol in the bottom right corner.

Alan:

Your layout is breath-taking and the video is fabulous! I love large city scenes. I have one rather odd-ball question. At 1:30 into the video, there are 2 Tuscan red, interurban cars. Because the train goes by them so fast, I couldn't be sure of the railroad name on them, but, they look to be Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines. Is that correct? If so, who made them, Lionel, MTH, Atlas?

Thank you.

Thanks Randy!....  The PRSL interurbans are in fact K-line.  They even have sound!

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