Change a bulb in a Fastrack Switch?

You are better off just replacing the switch stand. It will be much cheaper than hiring some one to change the bulb.

Here ya go.

Thank you so much John! I had no idea that was a route I could take, in fact I hadn't a clue.

Much appreciated and thanks again.

However, be prepared to keep replacing them.  The reason the LED goes out is the switch is supplying too much current to the LED, that's why they're failing.  The fix is to add a resistor to the LED drive, and that will require soldering.

Soldering does look like a great skill, and I have contemplated taking a class, which are offered in my area, however, they fill up fast! Which tells me alot.

Thank you.

I personally have a difficult time imagining working on trains and layouts without knowing how to solder, but maybe that's just me.

SeanG posted:

Soldering does look like a great skill, and I have contemplated taking a class, which are offered in my area, however, they fill up fast! Which tells me alot.

Thank you.

A class would be good, but there are plenty of good soldering tutorials on youtube. Watch a few and try it out. If you have trouble go back and watch some more videos. You will get better with every try and be soldering like a pro in no time. There are soldering practice kits available on ebay and also some interesting electronic kits you could practice with as well as maybe find a use for. Most are pretty inexpensive too.

Also get a good soldering station like the Hakko FX-888D ($100 or so, give or take). Use 63/37 solder (make sure it's for electronics). Stay away from the 'un-leaded' solder, that stuff is terrible to work with, IMO. I am no soldering expert, but getting the Hakko really improved my soldering skills compared to the old, cheap 'soldering irons' I used before. Sure made a believer out of me!

As GRJ says, soldering is a must for working on your own trains and layout stuff.

I wasn’t aware that the LEDs burning out is an issue.  Is lionel recommending a resistor size?  I assumed they should be designed to run on 18v with the rest of the TMCC and legacy products.

For such a modern track product line, seems like a critical circuit for lionel to have a good design from the start.  Very disappointing if this is the case.  This is the kind of issue that would turn a new comer (and others) to the hobby away.

I totally appreciate the advice, thank you. I did get into the hobby to see where it goes.

Hump Yard Mike posted:

I wasn’t aware that the LEDs burning out is an issue.  Is lionel recommending a resistor size?  I assumed they should be designed to run on 18v with the rest of the TMCC and legacy products.

The LED runs from internal power, apparently they forgot current limiting.  I put a 220 ohm in series with it.  I "think" there might be a Lionel note about it, but I haven't seen it.  I tried measuring it long ago and I didn't see any excessive current.  However, Jon Z. stated that it was a current issue, so for whatever reason, my measurements weren't accurate.  I just stick the resistor in, none of those have crapped out.

Here is a thread we had a while back on this same topic.  It may prove helpful.

Fastrack Switch LED Bulb Replacement

In the tutorial I posted in a similar thread, the writer says to check the led posts for 4.5 vdc. With no resistor, why don't they all blow? I have changed three bulbs and two switch stands on my 22 switches, but none in the last three years. I haven't put in any resistors, either. I have them all powered at 14 vac with a Type V transformer.