Connecting wiring harness: is there this type of plug (male - female connections)?

I sure others will answer but I believe one type is a Molex connector. They come in various wire combinations.

I'd be tempted to go around the door frame with a white covered 10 conductor wire...otherwise some in-line 10 pin connector would be best I think.  Maybe this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JST-2-...4:g:F5gAAOSwbqpTzlHB

I have a similar situation. I used a 180w brick to power the island and a small metal touch point on each end of the bridge to pass the TMCC signal through bridge to the island. I used one of the those 3 button remotes to the receptacle they had at Lowes at Christmas for turning the tree lights on and off,  to turn the brick on and off along with the main power. (didn't want power on without tmcc) It is basically a block without any fiber pins. My layout is 3 islands connected by bridges, works great. 

Use Anderson Power Poles. Completely customizable. These work well with DCS/TMCC signals. Click here.

Chris

LVHR

I use trailer hitch electrical plugs similar to this:  Trailer hitch plug . This is a 5 wire connector loop with a male on one end and female on the other. Simply cut the wires between the connectors and you'll have male and female connectors with pigtails that you can connect to your wiring. Obviously, you'll need 2 sets for 10 wires. These are made to connect and pull apart easily unlike Molex connectors.

Thesse

Another vote for Anderson PowerPoles, echoing Chris' statements.

Steve

I couldn't find any pictures under Molex connectors that would do the trick. And, the 10 pin connectors look like they're just for small 20 gauge or smaller wires?

I run both Legacy and DCS - thus I need to keep continuity as simple as possible. The Anderson Power poles were shown as individual plugs - I didn't see any that would combine 5 paired wires into one connector?

The trailer hitch wiring harness could work - two sets would be needed like Dennis mentioned.

The other option like I mentioned is to go around and into the utility room with the wires (around the door frame) and then through the wall under the new island benchwork. I hate to bore a hole thru the new wall - but maybe I could run a 3/4" diameter pvc pipe to act as a sleeve - just have to watch out for internal wall wiring when boring.

The efforts we go through to run trains around rooms gets ridiculous.

This  works well and the parts are readily available.  Many would not agree on the application for these parts.  Circuits are identified.

Paul Kallus posted:

I couldn't find any pictures under Molex connectors that would do the trick. And, the 10 pin connectors look like they're just for small 20 gauge or smaller wires?

I run both Legacy and DCS - thus I need to keep continuity as simple as possible. The Anderson Power poles were shown as individual plugs - I didn't see any that would combine 5 paired wires into one connector?

The trailer hitch wiring harness could work - two sets would be needed like Dennis mentioned.

The other option like I mentioned is to go around and into the utility room with the wires (around the door frame) and then through the wall under the new island benchwork. I hate to bore a hole thru the new wall - but maybe I could run a 3/4" diameter pvc pipe to act as a sleeve - just have to watch out for internal wall wiring when boring.

The efforts we go through to run trains around rooms gets ridiculous.

Anderson power poles slide together in line and rows.  A dot of super glue would make it quite permanent. The small shells come in ratings up to 45 amps. I use them everywhere for Ham Radio. Buy a quality ratcheting crimper...about $40 or so. Lasts a lifetime and does a proper crimp.

 I like this one as well  .Everything you  need right down at the local hardware store.  Cheap and definitely will  handle the current..

I plan to power my bridge tracks using the same method Mike shows in the photos - nice work BTW.

As I ponder the various connector options I am now leaning towards drilling a hole thru the walls and inserting a pvc pipe thru which I'll run the 5 pairs of wires - I might have to put elbows on each end to prevent the pipe from falling in the wall. I heard about brush plates for walls, but that would involve installing a receptacle box on each side, whereas a pvc pipe seems easier and less obtrusive. This will involve running longer runs of wire but it may actually be simpler.

Use power poles. They're modular and easy to use. You can put wires from 10-20awg in the small housings with the right size contact. I also agree to buy the crimper to do it right. They can be used with or without locking shells. 

Heres a couple bricks I've made up for modular layout uses...

Paul, you might want to consider a floor wireway similar to this:

Cable Shield Cord Cover

Thanks for the additional ideas. One of my RR track switches just broke and now I have to get that fixed.

The beauty of using plugs is that you can route power in a way that will kill an isolated section on both sides of your lift out section. This will prevent you from ever running a train off the edge when the section is removed.

Our trailers on the farm have 7 pole connectors that will handle your size wire. You would need two, but the female ends have brackets so they could be mounted solid. Most Auto Parts stores have them.