Hello everyone!
I would like to put a crossing gate on my layout. I Need only one gate because you can's the the other side of the street on the layout. I have found three versions from Tomar, NJ International, and MTH.
Can you give me an advice which one is a good one? And question number two: NJ International provides an "A-Type-Arm" and "Bar-Type-Arm". What's the difference here?
Thanks a lot and regards from Germany
Lars
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"A" looks like the letter A from above, wider at pivot casting then joining at the end.
And modern ones are straight out bar from the pivot casting.
(Cheaper and easier to repair?)
Google some images.
Does anyone offer slow motion crossing gates - or do you have to make your own drive?
Ed Rappe
Ed,
I think a tortoise machine connected to linkages with bellcranks would work nicely in slow motion.
I have a pair of Walthers O scale crossing gates that have not been out of the box. I thought they were slow motion, but have not tested them.
As I recall, the Walthers gates replicate the early steam-operated gates which were thrown manually by a gateman. Never having seen one operate, with steam I suspect the movement was fairly rapid.
The MTH gates operate off insulated rail or infrared sensors that complete the accessory power circuit. They're more modern and the movement is slower. You could trigger those with under-track reflective sensors, current sensing or a combination of the two.
The NJI gates need an actuator wire extending below the layout to a sideways-mounted tortoise machine. Reversing the machine can be a bit tricky, but is doable.
Information on controlling them can be found here.
Hope this helps.
Z Stuff also offers a nice set of crossing gates. I know you only need one, but....
The time the gates drop is adjustable. I believe the instructions may be on the Z Stuff website.
Here is a link to them in action.
https://ogrforum.com/t...ific-gp18-1148-rolls
Dan
I had a pair of NJI gates, using their system that uses small servo motors. Unfortunately they didn't last long before the connection inside the crossing gate housing broke. I can't recommend them.
Hi I can show you a sort video.
first crossing has MTH lights with Walthers gates.
second crossing has Z stuff crossing gate with lights an a frame type.
The Walthers gates have been in use for 3 years and just keep working.
Hi I can show you a sort video.
first crossing has MTH lights with Walthers gates.
second crossing has Z stuff crossing gate with lights an a frame type.
The Walthers gates have been in use for 3 years and just keep working.
shoot. That set of PR? smoking diesels stopped just short.
They looked good!
There a nice set thy smoke well And run well.
Thanks for your help!
The MTH gates take a relay, if you don't use the IR sensor. Two rail would require some input other than an insulated rail/common input that works with three rail. MTH Gate failure usually involves the small plastic drive gear in the base of the unit. It splits and slips on the drive shaft. There is required adjustment on the down and up limits, back side of the control box. Here are some pictures and additional information.
The relay that I used.
Top down.
Brown/Black Accessory/track common to the relay board and the gate.
Red Accessory power to the relay board and the gate.
Green Insulated rail input that causes the gates to activate.
Blue Gate power common. Gate to relay board.
Yellow NO (Normally open in the de-energized state), gate powers down. Gate to relay board.
White NC (Normally closed in the de-energized state), gate powers up. Gate to relay board.
Colors listed should match colors on the MTH gates.
The MTH gates are supplied with longer arms. Short arms pictured.
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