Did you attempt the reprogramming sequence?   It is suspiciously similar to the assign ID steps so not sure it will help.  Any chance you are using a CAB-2 and your ID chosen is programmed for Legacy when TMCC would be more applicable?

@Steims posted:

Did you attempt the reprogramming sequence?   It is suspiciously similar to the assign ID steps so not sure it will help.  Any chance you are using a CAB-2 and your ID chosen is programmed for Legacy when TMCC would be more applicable?

Steims

I wasn't aware of the sequence reprogramming steps that you attached. I just did the assign ID steps. I'm using a Cab 2 remote and I tried several unused ID's and I also changed the engine information around such as Cab 1 and also set the engine to TMCC.

The "reset" sequence is the same as simply programming an ID.  This unit uses the RCDR and doesn't have an engine type code.

I believe the whole shell is the antenna in these, so did you check and see if the shell is grounded to the frame/wheels?

gunrunnerjohn

I believe the whole shell is the antenna in these, so did you check and see if the shell is grounded to the frame/wheels?

I haven't checked that yet but I was wondering if the unit had an internal antenna last night. I will certainly check that part out and report back. So, I shouldn't get continuity correct?

Correct, if the shell has continuity to the wheels, it'll never function in command mode.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Correct, if the shell has continuity to the wheels, it'll never function in command mode.

I'm embarrassed to ask this question but what points do I touch the Trackmobile with my meter to check for a ground?

NOTE: Reprogramming the ID didn't solve the problem communicating with TMCC command.

One probe on the wheels, and the other one any place on the top you can find a bare spot.  If it's still pristine, take a pin in a test clip and use that on the probe.  Just probe a spot not obvious on the top shell while connected to the wheel.  Continuity = bad.

Gunrunner,

I have a ground, I touched the top of the cab and the other lead to the wheels.  What's next?

I'm guessing that's the problem, the next step is ugly, because you have to find out why.  Taking the cab off the trackmobile is not for the novice, it's a royal PITA.

Do you have a schematic showing the screws that need to be removed?  And once I remove the cab what will I be looking for?  Pinched wires?  Something came loose?

I was looking at mine to see what is and isn't insulated, and for the life of me, I can't be sure what has to come apart to get inside to check the antenna.  I took the four screws out to remove the cab years ago to replace several windows that had fallen in.  If you haven't pushed any windows out, my advice is NEVER touch the windows, they're very easy to push in, and then the only way to fix them is to take the cab off.  When you take the cab off, there are a number of wires that are nicely hidden along the side posts, getting them back in place is a major PITA.

I'd do a little more research and make sure we're going to the right place, mine is the only one of these I have ever worked on, and I only went as far as pulling the cab to fix the windows.  Since it runs fine, I'm not about to try to take it apart!

(Problem Solved)

I removed the cab and after a few minutes probing around I saw the problem. One of the "Run - Program"  wires was detached from the slide switch and touching the frame. Since this was a new engine I guess the trip from China was enough to cause it to break loose.

It now runs like a champ!!

Thank you gunrunnerjohn for your help in leading me in the right direction!

Congrats!!  Now, can you tell us how you got the cab off??

@RickM46 posted:

Congrats!!  Now, can you tell us how you got the cab off??

I changed out the board on mine and I don't remember any issue getting it apart.

Now getting it back together, was another story.

It was a simple fix by removing 4 screws and re-soldered the wire without removing the switch. Thankfully I didn't have to dig around that deep in the belly.

The PITA with removing the cab is getting it back on with all the wires along the pillars neatly hidden.  That took several tries when I took mine off.