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I would take a look at the battery connections. You may have to gently pry out the  negative connections with a small screw driver... All batteries are also not created equal... some are a tighter fit than others....I would   do anything to avoid opening up the remote.  

What do have the shut off time set for? 

Clem & Dave,

Is it time to reseat the board again ?

f the added foam in the battery compartment does not work, open the remote and make sure everything is seated properly.

The transceiver board being loose is absolutely not the problem with the remote turning itself off when set down too hard.

Typically, this issue occurs for one of the following reasons:

  • The batteries are not well-seated in their compartment. Reseat them.
  • The springs that hold the batteries have lost their tension. Gently stretch the springs to re-tension them.
  • Their is insufficient foam padding affixed to the battery compartment door. Add additional padding, however, be careful not to make the battery compartment door "bulge" out.
  • Some batteries are actually just a hair shorter than others. Try using a different brand of battery.

The battery compartment is not the best design feature of the DCS Remote.


DCS Book CoverThis and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!"

This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store!
Last edited by Barry Broskowitz
Barry Broskowitz posted:

Clem & Dave,

Is it time to reseat the board again ?

f the added foam in the battery compartment does not work, open the remote and make sure everything is seated properly.

The transceiver board being loose is absolutely not the problem with the remote turning itself off when set down too hard.

Typically, this issue occurs for one of the following reasons:

  • The batteries are not well-seated in their compartment. Reseat them.
  • The springs that hold the batteries have lost their tension. Gently stretch the springs to re-tension them.
  • Their is insufficient foam padding affixed to the battery compartment door. Add additional padding, however, be careful not to make the battery compartment door "bulge" out.
  • Some batteries are actually just a hair shorter than others. Try using a different brand of battery.

The battery compartment is not the best design feature of the DCS Remote.


DCS Book CoverThis and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!"

This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store!

Barry,

I wasn't clear.  I was not talking about the RF board.  I recently had a remote that had been sent away for service and was not put back together properly.  It looked OK but was shutting down all the time.  The main PCB was out of position. (yeah I know that sounds impossible) but true.

Dave

 

WillyGee,

Bill  Still using my rechargeable set up you made for my  DCS hand held remote control, everything still work perfectly, having you upgrade my units and make them fully  rechargeable was one of the best improvement to the DCS handheld remote control we ever did, IMO MTH should supply the DCS Hand Held Remotes in this configuration to begin with.

PCRR/Dave

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
Pine Creek Railroad posted:

WillyGee,

Bill  Still using my rechargeable set up you made for my  DCS hand held remote control, everything still work perfectly, having you upgrade my units and make them fully  rechargeable was one of the best improvement to the DCS handheld remote control we ever did, IMO MTH should supply the DCS Hand Held Remotes in this configuration to begin with.

PCRR/Dave

DSCN1803

DSCN1705

Thanks Dave...mine(2 remotes) works perfectly. as a matter of fact rechargeables are 3 years old.

I just benefited from this 4 year old thread.  This morning my "newer" DCS Remote showed "BAT" in the display.  I replaced the 4 batteries with a mix of new ones. 1 CVS and 3 Energizer.  Nothing changed.  When I turned it on, it would still either just flash on then go off, or not turn on.  I checked the batteries voltages  and they were fine.  I stretched the springs...no joy.  I was thinking maybe the boards in the remote need to be reseated.  Something I did want to do unless no other alternative existed.  I replaced a thumbwheel in my old remote...an experience I hope I never have to repeat. Pulling apart one of these remotes is no fun.  Then I read this string and learned that batteries of the same "size" like AAA could be a different physical size.  I replaced the 3 Energizer batteries with all CVS brand batteries.  The remote fired right up!  Although I carefully looked and pushed on the batteries to determine if they were different in size I could not tell...but, they were.  Thanks to the great folks on this Forum for once again, providing sound advice and solutions.  

@Alan Mancus posted:

ant time you have remote dying or just shutting off the FIRST THING TO DO IS PUT 4 BRAND NEW BATTERIES! 100% OF THE TIME THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT THE PROBLEM!!!!

Actually, the top suspect is not the battery replacement for the remote shutting off when you set it down, it's the battery compartment.  The fix is foam or some other method of holding the batteries in place.

@Dave Hikel came up with this great little 3D printed bracket to hold the batteries in place, I picked them up at York a few years ago.  These work great!  You don't need foam pressing against the battery cover and potentially breaking the latch, and the bracket is designed to avoid contact with the stock piece of foam in the battery cover.  All in all, a pretty clever design.

 

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Actually, the top suspect is not the battery replacement for the remote shutting off when you set it down, it's the battery compartment.  The fix is foam or some other method of holding the batteries in place.

@Dave Hikel came up with this great little 3D printed bracket to hold the batteries in place, I picked them up at York a few years ago.  These work great!  You don't need foam pressing against the battery cover and potentially breaking the latch, and the bracket is designed to avoid contact with the stock piece of foam in the battery cover.  All in all, a pretty clever design.

 

Too funny.  Was happening to me exactly as you described GRJ.  If @Dave Hikel is monitoring this thread, please let me know if you're still selling the battery compartment brackets. I'm in for 2 and my brother-in-law is, as well.

I bought a couple of them from Dave at York in October. He can be a hard man to get a hold of since he is often on the road with train layouts. The best way of getting a hold of him is calling his number (206) 920-9647.  His battery holder contraption made a huge difference and much more effective than the foam in the battery compartment trick.

Last edited by eaaiii

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