Does anyone makeKadee coupler shim for postwar and MPC rolling stock and engines?

Woodson posted:

Curious, I see shims for scale Lionel engines and rolling stock, but don't see anything made for the above.. I can fabricate my own, I have a Plastruct Catalog on the way.. I just don't want to 'reinvent' stuff that may be out there already.. TIA

I have never purchased a "shim" for Kadee couplers in my life. I make all my shims out of .500" wide Evergreen styrene stock of various thicknesses from .020" all the way to .120" thick.

Hot Water posted:

Woodson posted:

Curious, I see shims for scale Lionel engines and rolling stock, but don't see anything made for the above.. I can fabricate my own, I have a Plastruct Catalog on the way.. I just don't want to 'reinvent' stuff that may be out there already.. TIA

I have never purchased a "shim" for Kadee couplers in my life. I make all my shims out of .500" wide Evergreen styrene stock of various thicknesses from .020" all the way to .120" thick.

That was my thinking.. Should I get a catalog from Evergreen also?? There are no hobby shops near me.. I've 'mocked' up stuff using Popsicle sticks and such.. It didn't appear to be 'rocket science'..

Just downloaded Evergreen's catalog.. Is there any particular assortment that you suggest I start with??

.020" should be close enough tolerance to ideal. If you buy .020", then .050", then .125" you should be able to make up any shim in .020" increments by stacking them up. Also styrene scores and breaks easily. Rather than buy strips, buy sheets and you can use it for many more projects than shims.

Mario doesn't do his product justice by calling it shims. Most of what he produces is complete coupler mount for a specific piece of rolling stock or locomotive.

Pete

Norton posted:

.020" should be close enough tolerance to ideal. If you buy .020", then .050", then .125" you should be able to make up any shim in .020" increments by stacking them up. Also styrene scores and breaks easily. Rather than buy strips, buy sheets and you can use it for many more projects than shims.

Mario doesn't do his product justice by calling it shims. Most of what he produces is complete coupler mount for a specific piece of rolling stock or locomotive.

 

Pete

Thank you for the information.. I have been following Mario's threads.. I'm in complete agreement with you!!

Also, any particular glue that you have had the best success with?? I understand that once I determine the size shim for the different design cars, the rest is pretty straight forward..

I am big fan of Tenax 7R for styrene. It welds the plastic which makes for a much stronger bond than you can achieve with epoxy or Super Glues (CA). I have also used Plastruct cement with the brush applicator. It takes a little longer to evaporate but seems to work nearly as well.

Pete

Woodson posted:

Norton posted:

.020" should be close enough tolerance to ideal. If you buy .020", then .050", then .125" you should be able to make up any shim in .020" increments by stacking them up. Also styrene scores and breaks easily. Rather than buy strips, buy sheets and you can use it for many more projects than shims.

Mario doesn't do his product justice by calling it shims. Most of what he produces is complete coupler mount for a specific piece of rolling stock or locomotive.

 

Pete

Thank you for the information.. I have been following Mario's threads.. I'm in complete agreement with you!!

Also, any particular glue that you have had the best success with?? I understand that once I determine the size shim for the different design cars, the rest is pretty straight forward..

I do NOT glue the shim nor the Kadee coupler gearbox to the underframe. I drill and tap for 2-56 machine screws (the mounting holes in the Kadee boxes need to be enlarged ever so slightly), if the underframe of the car is metal. If the underframe is plastic, I then drill a smaller hole and use #2 self tapping "sheet metal" screws.

I purchase all my various mounting screws from Micro Fasteners, in New Jersey.

Hot Water posted:

Woodson posted:

Norton posted:

.020" should be close enough tolerance to ideal. If you buy .020", then .050", then .125" you should be able to make up any shim in .020" increments by stacking them up. Also styrene scores and breaks easily. Rather than buy strips, buy sheets and you can use it for many more projects than shims.

Mario doesn't do his product justice by calling it shims. Most of what he produces is complete coupler mount for a specific piece of rolling stock or locomotive.

 

Pete

Thank you for the information.. I have been following Mario's threads.. I'm in complete agreement with you!!

Also, any particular glue that you have had the best success with?? I understand that once I determine the size shim for the different design cars, the rest is pretty straight forward..

I do NOT glue the shim nor the Kadee coupler gearbox to the underframe. I drill and tap for 2-56 machine screws (the mounting holes in the Kadee boxes need to be enlarged ever so slightly), if the underframe of the car is metal. If the underframe is plastic, I then drill a smaller hole and use #2 self tapping "sheet metal" screws.

I purchase all my various mounting screws from Micro Fasteners, in New Jersey.

I just placed an order with Evergreen.. I have the drills and taps for 2-56 machine screws and an assortment of machine screws and 'sheet metal' screws, I bought from Micro Fasteners.. I also know the tip about enlarging the the Kadee boxes slightly.. I think a 3/32 bit does the trick.. Thanks very much for the information.. You guys are great!!

A Kadee coupler height gauge and digital caliper makes it very easy to determie how thick your shim needs to be. The height gauge is  "must" for Kadee conversions anyway 

Just to be clear, the glue is just to hold your shim stack together. Cut them oversize and finish them to size using sandpaper on a flat surface the bond lines with disappear. That said all of my HO cars have the Kadees attached with glue. The few O scale cars and locos I have done are screw mounted. 

Pete

WeberCanyon4014 posted:

A Kadee coupler height gauge and digital caliper makes it very easy to determie how thick your shim needs to be. The height gauge is  "must" for Kadee conversions anyway 

Norton posted:

Just to be clear, the glue is just to hold your shim stack together. Cut them oversize and finish them to size using sandpaper on a flat surface the bond lines with disappear. That said all of my HO cars have the Kadees attached with glue. The few O scale cars and locos I have done are screw mounted. 

Pete

I understand.. I appreciate your clarifications.. I have a Kadee height gauge, and a digital caliper..  I have watched Laidoffsick's u tube videos..  I'm using his 'trick' to keep the assembled couplers together.. This is where I picked up the 3/32 drill bit 'trick' also.. I'm currently using 805s because they 'mate' with the lobster claws.. Once I exhaust my supply of 805s, I will probably use the New Generation AAR Type "E" Couplers.. I believe that number is 740, and add transition cars if necessary since they don't work with the claws.. I have yet to 'play around' with the Kadee uncoupling magnets, but first things first... Since my fingers are older and don't work as well as they once did, I install the coupler box spring using Kadee's reverse tweezers and a small flat tip screwdriver.. All the coupled cars will be 'test run' on some tight curves to check for clearance issues.. The cars will also be weighted to NMRA standards..