My real old clockwork has a slightly warped drive wheel. Thus, not allowing it to stay on an 0-track for longer than 2 seconds.
Would anyone know how to 'delicately' straighten it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ariville
|
My real old clockwork has a slightly warped drive wheel. Thus, not allowing it to stay on an 0-track for longer than 2 seconds.
Would anyone know how to 'delicately' straighten it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ariville
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Is it cast or stamped ?? I am guessing it is cast, if it is old. Would be hard to straighten it, I would think. a neat old train.
Maybe some gradual pressure in a vise, assuming you can pull the wheel off the axle without damaging it!
Still makes a nice static display!
Elgaucho,
Sir, Have you determined that it is the wheel and not a bent axle or worn axle bushing? I have to be honest. Due to the age, scale, manufacture, rarity and overall condition you might do more harm than good attempting to make any repairs.
IMHO I would put it on display in a covered rosewood case. One of our sponsors sell beautiful displays.
Thanks everyone!
First off.... yes, I realize if I put any effort into straightening it, I may run the risk of ruining it. I definitely do not want that!
Just that my eager-self wants to see this beauty run on track one last time (*And video it!! Not many Issmayer video's around..)
Jim, the wheels ARE cast. They're soldered to the axel so taking the wheels and axels apart to straighten the axel, is impossible
Pappy, I think you're right.. it definitely is the axel that's slightly bent. But since the wheels are soldered onto the ends, I can't take this apart. I have applied "very light" pressure, going the opposite way... to help straighten the axel. It's helped a BIT! It's made it run on the track a little better.... but I'd be tempting fate if I applied any more pressure I think.
This might have to be one of those "display" but not "play" kinda deals. Darn it! :/
Impossible? Never heard of the word.
Looking at the picture above, it appears that the axle does stick out a bit beyond the wheel. It might be possible to make a tool to apply pressure to the end of the axle and perhaps on the hub of the wheel, lessening the chance of breaking the wheel. I would not apply pressure to the rim of the wheel; to do so would be taking a big risk of breaking the wheel.
I personally think it is possible to unsolder the wheel, straighten the axle, and solder the wheel back in place. I have unsoldered many things over the years. It would be a bit of a touchy process, though.
Better safe than sorry !
If the wheels are truly soldered to the axles, then the wheels are not pot metal. They must be cast iron. That should make them more stable than pot metal wheels would be.
I'll take a better up-close photo tonight of the underside and axel.
That'd better explain my conundrum....
That would be great... I would love to see some close-up pictures of the problem area. Hopefully we can see if it would be possible to make a tool that would hook on the outside end of the axle with a fulcrum on the bent part of the axle (presumably it is bent at the frame). It would allow pressure to be applied in the proper spot on the axle without stressing the drive wheel. I think that is the safest way to straighten it out without removing the wheel itself.
I wouldn't trust old iron either.
Determining exactly where its bent for sure is first! Holding something up against the axle to check for run out at the tip, and bushing area. No need to "measure" just eyeball it to look for the bend on the axle, or wheel boss. None there? It's in the spokes. Are the drivers(top) soldered too? I cant see it.
In a recent PW post, bending back cast Lionel's was the subject. "It cold flows" was the answer there. Slow light pressure, over days.
Adriatic is right... you need to determine exactly what is out of whack. You don't want to try to straighten the wrong thing.
Just for clarification... you said a drive wheel was wobbling, and it was soldered in place. In the pictures you posted above, is it the lower or upper set of wheels? The right lower wheel appears to be crooked, but that may not be the one you are talking about. Depending on if it is an actual drive wheel or that trailing wheelset, different techniques may need to be used to straighten it out. The wheels appear to just be diecast that are pressed in place. I can see how the hubs on the trailing wheelset could appear to be soldered, but it looks like it is part of the casting, not solder.
Windup Guy,
The trailing wheels are fine. When tested on a track, it was the drive wheels that couldn't hold in place at times. Once I put some pressure to help straighten that axel, it seemed to work better. I just thought I'd ask to see if anyone has a better suggestion to straighten the axel.
Also, it seems like the "molding" of the front "left" wheel is a bit wobbly. That I cant do much about though.... Ah well.
Originally Posted by Adriatic:
Determining exactly where its bent for sure is first! Holding something up against the axle to check for run out at the tip, and bushing area. No need to "measure" just eyeball it to look for the bend on the axle, or wheel boss. None there? It's in the spokes. Are the drivers(top) soldered too? I cant see it.
In a recent PW post, bending back cast Lionel's was the subject. "It cold flows" was the answer there. Slow light pressure, over days.
But..pressure on the wheel against the axle may round the hole also.
You should also look at it again, and again, and again. No hurry, it waited for you
Roll her slowly on the track. Are both crooked?
An over-press of wheels onto a shoulder, or limited length splined axle, can make this wheel set> II , into this > II .
Adriatic... This train DID wait for me (*great line.... haha
No.. it doesnt seem like both wheels are crooked/warped, just the left drive wheel.
Good suggestion too... with the pressing the wheel onto a hard shoulder. I cant TELL you how many times I`ve bent pieces of Bilt E-Z construction toy on the side of a table to help straighten it... haha! Gotta protect my hands!!
I will do this delicately though... I'm in no hurry indeed.
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership