Is there any difference between Dullcote and Krylon or any other maker that sells Flat or satin finishes? are they the same?
Appreciate your response
thanks Steve
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Is there any difference between Dullcote and Krylon or any other maker that sells Flat or satin finishes? are they the same?
Appreciate your response
thanks Steve
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I've been using Dullcote since the sixties and never had problem. Never tried Krylon on engines or rolling stock but it works well on scenery. Both flat finishes appear to dry the same.
Dullcote tends to be truly flatter; also, there have been compatibility issues for me with some paints and the "hardware store" clear coats. Kind of random, but Valspar brand seems the most unpredictable and destructive. Of course, test things first, but I have had a few surprises even when I have.
So, who needs the aggravation (and a big "cheap" can is pretty expensive when it eats your paint job)? I switched back to Dullcote spray cans; I do have a bottle for touch-ups/small areas. I still test, typically.
Seeing the above response: I do use the Big Cans on things other than locos and RS. Good stuff for that.
I use Dullcoat all the time Krylon fish eyed on a caboose and engine so I only use it on scenery. I have friends that have good results with Krylon.
I've been using Krylon ColorMaster gloss and flat for some time now without any problems. I did have one problem but it was with an old bottle of paint, I tossed it and opened a new bottle (same brand) with no issues.
Just spray light coats, both dry fairly quickly and can be re-coated soon after spraying. I have found the more gloss coats sprayed on hide the decal edges better, then followed with a coat of dull if that's what is needed.
Buy a can and give it a test.
Yep, avoid the Valspar brand like D500 said, it'll make a mess.
I have gone back to dullcote due to unpredictable reactions. And for repainted 1/43rd cars (I don't know what the Chinese paint them with but I have had to remove and redo twice), and now only use Testor's color spray cans, which I consider overpriced, including dullcote, for model cars, bit as noted above, aggravation has a cost, too. I have had one other paint problem with a rattle can, when I used Rustoleum because available in the right color. Wally World seems to carry fewer color choices in their 96c stuff than they used to.
I've used both. Any problems encountered were due to the worst villain of all.....myself.
One thing I'll mention re the Krylon product line....they have a clear coat that has UV stabilizers in it (check the label!)....perfect for anything that might be subject to fading under extended UV (say, sunlight) exposure.
So, while not necessarily a biggie for items that will spend most of their life indoors, it certainly has an advantage for those being used outdoors....e.g., Large Scale, garden railways, etc.. Most model paints (e.g., Testors) do not have UV stabilizers in their formulation, and the colors can fade when subjected to sunlight...outdoors, near windows, et al.
I know, I know.....so much picking of nits. Just a thought, FWIW.
KD
I've used Dullcote (clear) to dull the finish on existing paints. There have been a few issues with splotchiness on some paints, such as silver. I've only used Krylon in spray cans of colored paint. I don't know if they make a clear dulling spray product like Dullcote.
I've had generally good luck with Krylon spray paints, much better than Rustoleum. Krylon seems to go on smoother and it dries much, much faster than Rustoleum. Testors spray has been fine, though not particularly fast drying. Tamiya paints (from Japan, and found in hobby stores, mainly) are outstanding.
I've been reading this post with some interest but for a totally out in left field reason: My layout has to be compact and easy to take up so the cleaning lady can vacuum and so the scenery doesn't take over the living room :-). So all of my buildings are photographs or blown up postcards that I've placed in horizontal and vertical plastic display stands of various sizes. I think they look great and it makes it easy to swap in and out different eras, train stations, towns, and views. The problem is that the reflection can be pretty bad especially when the sun is out or I want to take a photo. This week I was thinking of spraying the plastic stands with something like Krylon but the spray can of fixitive I have from my art major days happens to be glossy not flat.
Before I run out and get a can of Dullcote or flat Krylon, what do you folks think? Will a spritz of one of these products tone down the glare? It's plastic just like your cars but of course unpainted.
I'm attaching before and after photos of my new coal tipple. Thanks for putting up with my side trip.
Tomlinson Run Railroad
Dullcoat is good for hand- bombing parts straight out of the can. If you have something you need a better finish on, i.e., a locomotive, use an air-brush.
The rule of thumb is to stick to the same paint manufacturer. If you use Krylon for the color paint stick with a Krylon flat/gloss finish coat. They will have compatible solvents. I'll pay for the better model paints as they are made not to attack plastic. They can also have finer particle size so as to not bury detail.
I'll use Krylon for metal (like a light tower) and generally be happy with it.
The cost doesn't bother me as I am not using gallons to paint a room.
Alan
I used Krylon for over a half century for locomotives and cars, and also small airplane pieces, when I could get the correct color. Rustoleum always ate the underlying paint, and took a week to dry. I really liked Krylon.
Then about five years ago, Krylon had a better idea, redesigned their nozzle, and changed the paint formula. Krylon is now no longer at all useful for trains and small parts. I guess the nozzle is designed for housewives, because it sure isn't good for small items.
And surprise! Rustoleum now has paint that dries relatively quickly and nozzles that allow folks like me to paint.
Opinion, but from a guy who owns two Binks Model 18, one Binks 37, one Paasche Model H, and two compressors, and who paints real airplanes and model trains.
I prefer Dullcote for freight cars and locomotives, as I've had mixed results with other brands (large cans).
Yes, Dullcote is indeed more expensive, so I buy it at Michaels using their weekly "40% off one item" coupon...or even better yet, by using their occasional "30% off entire purchase" coupon, as I did this past weekend (4 cans)!
Here's a Weaver RS3 I recently painted with Polly Scale C&O Enchantment Blue (F414260) and, after decals, covered it with Krylon Gloss Acrylic Crystal Clear (51301), then Krylon Flat Acrylic Crystal Clear (53530). I have not sprayed any Krylon on the truck sideframes yet and I can see even the clear flat has a sheen to it compared to the sideframes:
Here's a Weaver Pullman-Bradley car I modified into a Seaboard Air Line Combine. I painted this with Badger Model Flex SAL Pullman Green and, after decals, covered it with Krylon Gloss Acrylic Crystal Clear (51301):
I had no problems with either paint job. I can't vouch for using the Krylon with any other brand of paint.
Good luck with your paint job!!!
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